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The coop is 4' x 8'. The end walls are 4' high and the sides are 6' from bottom of floor framing to the peak of the gable. The coop sits on a 2' high pedestal but I would make the next one 3' high to avoid hitting your head on the sharp roof panels.
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One end has a full width hatch door for easy cleaning and the window sash is also hinged.
The nest boxes are oversized because I had the room. The roof is hinged 7/16" OSB with an aluminum skin for weather proofing and reflecting the sun.
The coop is 4' x 8'. The end walls are 4' high and the sides are 6' from bottom of floor framing to the peak of the gable. The coop sits on a 2' high pedestal but I would make the next one 3' high to avoid hitting your head on the sharp roof panels.
The brooder pen is constructed from 2x2s and 2x4s with 1/2" hardware cloth on the bottom and 1" chicken wire for the sides and top. The whole top is hinged. I would make the top in two halfs next time for easier access. I used rosin paper on the floor with about 1" of sand on top of that. Sand was cheap and easy to clean.
We got nine chicks when they were 2 days old from a local family owned farm supply. Five Buff Orpingtons and four Rhode Island Reds. One of the RIR turned out to be a rooster.
JT(rooster) and the girls foraging for left over sunflower seeds from the bird feeder. I let them out every morning and they head back to the coop to roost when it starts getting dark.
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coophead

The coop is 4' x 8'. The end walls are 4' high and the sides are 6' from bottom of floor framing to the peak of the gable. The coop sits on a 2' high pedestal but I would make the next one 3' high to avoid hitting your head on the sharp roof panels.

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Coophead's Backyard Chicken Project
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