Anytime I hear about wholesale slaughter I think about weasels. They and Terriers are the only predators I know that will kill everything like a psycho.
Secret ninja tip. See if you can get a roll of 17 gauge Stucco Netting wire. It's like chicken wire on steroids.
If it's just daytime use, chicken wire will keep out hawks and most daytime predators. But, 2x4 wire will give you peace of mind and is a lot stiffer/more structual. So it really...
It's been 11 years since we moved states to a city that frowned on backyard chickens. Then came kids and we were just too busy to think about it.
But last year we moved to a new city (Rio Rancho, NM) and have room and time to think about starting our new flock. So back to backyardchickens.com...
4sq ft per hen in the coop and 10 sq ft per hen outside the coop.
So that is a total of 14 sq ft per hen.
And that is the Bare Minimum. It is much better for your hens if they have lots more room.
Online coop builders always drive me crazy with their chicken math.
Plus there is never enough ventilation! Coops built by chicken owners have big open windows!
Quote:
That coop has about 14 sq ft of floor space.
You might squeeze 4 Hens in.
The hobbit coop builders think that 2 sq ft per...
If built properly, your coop should have giant open ventilation areas. (1sq ft per chicken)
With that much open air, the temp inside the coop should be the same as the air outside of the coop.
So Insulation would not really help.
DLM only creates heat when it is moist and can compost.
Here in the dry desert we don't have to worry about that so DLM works fine.
Cleaning it out every 6 months is dusty, make sure to get a mask.
Found it:
From: University of California, Davis
http://animalscience.ucdavis.edu/Avian/plhouse1.pdf
I used the concepts from this to build a 4x4 coop that I can unscrew and move with us.
I bet your existing coop will be fine. You do not need insulation for the coop.
Just make it draft free, but still have some ventilation up high.
The hens are insulated with a nice down coat.