Looks very different to her sister or dam, almost look like different lines, but by no means is that an issue. Still a bit smaller, more compact, but neat tail and lovely eye colour now, even though it’s a bit on the brown side. Copper a bit paler but still nice, and the over colouring from her...
LokiNapoleon
Napoléon (with the é)
My marans cockerels throughout the years, all at roughly 20 weeks (I realised 20 is closer to my young ones’ age). I think this shows why I’m so please with Napoléon, see how much bigger his body is for the same age. His tail is so far the best too, I’m hoping...
We have a motto on this thread: build a house before you paint it. I’d always pick a cock with better build and feather quality regardless of colour, that’s an easier fix down the line.
I do agree 2’s legs are too dark, which is ironic for an over-coloured bird. But I’d focus on type first...
I’ve decided to start writing a book on the MARANS breed (both standards). It will include history, standards, colours and breeding advise, and I’d love to have input from you guys if you feel anything in particular should feature (and I’d love any photo contributions).
That being said, here’s...
I always find mine prefer crushed corn. RIR Roos are known to be nasty pieces of work. When you’re keeping numbers that large, you often want them to mature physically before they do sexually, to prevent the aggression and in fighting.
Cornish x Plymouth Rock is the old school English way to...
This is a sensible concern. You have to find the sweet spot. Brahma cocks don’t actually reach full size until 24 months in some cases, but by then the meat will be tough. That’s why 5 or 6 months is favourable. They’re about 5-8lbs rather than 8-12, but you get better quality meat and better...
Here’s my shortlist:
Brahmas: big but slow growing, only an option if you’re okay with slaughter age at 6 months+. Slow growth allows them to develop flavour if fed well. The dark and blue varieties may be best for camouflage, and the big cocks can fight away smaller predators. Lay enough eggs...
I guess the thing with blue silvers is that neither the blue or silver are actually accepted colours, so you can pick whatever shade you like. I’m a fan of paler blue with silvers (I do live slate blue with silver too). I believe pigeon blue is considered ideal for Blue coppers, don’t know if it...
The first pullet is interesting with the blacker and paler patches. I’m a fan of the paler shade of blue bantambirds line has with the silver.
Very nice, can’t wait for them to lay you hundreds of eggs you will undoubtedly hatch!
The splash is a dilution pattern. While the allele mostly dilutes eumelanin (dark black/grey pigments), the double dose also dilutes the pheomelanin (red-orange pigments). This is why splash coppers generally look just splash. However, splash coppers often have yellow/straw parts, while splash...
Do you have pictures of the third BCM? I would avoid the over melanised one unless you have over-coloured hens.
The splash caught my eye but his tail is a bit long, and due to the pose he’s in I don’t know how high the tail is usually held. He has the best face (comb etc) though.
My safest...
This guy is B/b+ (single barred). He is most likely gold based from appearance, so breeding him to black copper hens will produced 50% black or blue coppers, 50% black or blue golden cuckoo.
I know he’s not the focus but I really like the type of this Blue GCM. If you were willing to risk a dilution to copper for improved type, I’d consider this guy.
I can’t see his face though.