The picture does not show those details well, I did not mean to offend, good on you to be attuned to the risk and taking care.
I use ceramic bulbs. "Ceramic heat bulbs are generally considered safer and healthier than traditional heat bulbs with light for brooding chicks. Ceramic bulbs emit...
I see a heat lamp that is suspended by those flimsy spring "hands".
As mentioned location is important, not knowing yours limits inputs that may be helpful.
Get rid of the heat lamp!! Chickens can survive very well down to -30C/-22F as long as they are sheltered from any drafts strong enough...
I am up in Canada, we have had occasional temperatures at your 23-25F levels for several weeks now, mere preparation for what's coming. What size is the coop and run?
Ventilation in the coop is CRITICAL! I don't see much in your coop.
You need to provide a way for the flock to get to/from...
Natural state for the ground where I live is a thin layer of soil then sand & gravel.
I built a 12'-40' pole shed, roofed with tin, 8' at the back 12' at the front, HC all around the 3 open sides (coop closes off the 4th side).
Once that was done I added 6-8" of mulch and a healthy wack of...
FWIW I eventually retired my dust bath container as the ground my run sits on is largely sand and gravel and my flock prefers that.
When I did use the container I had a mix of sand, wood ash and Sulphur. Also hung a delicate garment mesh wash bag with Sulphur over the pop door such that the...
Six years in. I have 25 chickens in about 400 Sq ft of run that includes the space under my elevated coop. The run proper is covered by a pole shed.
The bedding in the run is on ground that is 4-6" of soil over a sand/gravel mix. I started with mulch then added leaves & pine needles each fall...
Chickens require a well sheltered area to roost. This area should be out of any drafts that cause feathers to be ruffled and of course dry! Beyond that ventilation is key to remove any buildup of humidity or ammonia from their waste. (I live in Canada, have average winter temps of 5F and periods...
"Best Practices in Iowa
Many keepers use sand as the main substrate for drainage and cleaning, with straw added in the coop or run only in winter for insulation or when conditions are especially wet or cold.
Some use a mix: sand as the base with straw, leaves, or grass clippings on top for...
Click on your name upper right, then click on "Account Details", scroll down until you see "Location", add "Iowa" in the empty space.
You can be more detailed but not necessary.
You should update your profile to include your location.
If the wind causes a chickens feathers to move it is too much. The reason to have good ventilation is to remove humidity from the coop area so that frost bite does not happen. The birds should have a roost area that is well sheltered from...
Your location is key to getting good answers to your question.
Chickens need an area where they can be sheltered from wind. If your setup provides that and your birds are cold tolerant they will be fine down to-22F, perhaps more.
Guessing that is common. My coop is raised between 3 to 4 feet (ground contour differences) and sits on 4x4 posts in deck blocks. However, it is adjacent to a 36'x12' pole shed that has 8 hydro poles buried 4' and behind a 32'x32' garage.
One has to assess local conditions and make choices.
Options are:
put your posts into the ground, usually 4 feet deep to get below the frost line.
There are metal “augers" that screw into the ground. They have a round hole on top that can be used to tie a structure to the ground. One should be able to work through the rocks & gravel with a bit of...
As best I am able to determine railway ties are still made using creosote and are considered toxic either through eating (guessing this does not happen often) or from leaching into the surrounding ground.
"New railway ties, particularly wooden ones, are typically toxic to chickens due to the...
There are two kinds of treated wood: ground contact; non ground contact. If you choose to use it make sure you purchase ground contact specified boards only.
Like @Ridgerunner I did not use wood around the bottom of my run. After 5 years of being covered with earth or ... the hardware cloth...
Easiest, quickest, cheapest is usually tarps.
Tarps and sharp edges do not mix well. Get the handyman to eliminate as many sharp edges as he can. You should research to find best buy for tarps (AG stores a good start) and whatever hardware you need to hang it.
If you time it right you will...
I have a 10' x 16' Woods KD style coop. Woods' book states this is sufficient for 40 chickens. Attached is a ~15 x 28' covered run; pop door open 24/7.
I have had as many as 35 birds, both roosters & hens; I felt 40 would have been pushing it. Now have 27 hens ONLY; atmosphere in the run is...