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The usual guidelines for space, that work well enough in most cases: 4 square feet of space per hen in the coop 1 linear foot of roost space per hen 1 square foot of ventilation per hen 1 nestbox for every 4 hens (so 2 nestboxes for 6 hens) 10 square feet of space per hen in the run More of...

A number of people on this forum have previously mentioned their experiences raising Cornish Cross. It seems to be moderately common, either as pets or for breeding. Here are some links as a starting point. In general, each thread and/or each person has quite a few more posts too. Several...

From the way you said it the first time, I thought you were putting it in all water sources, and leaving it there all day every day-- which is not a good idea (and the electrolyte instructions usually say not to do that, but not everyone reads the instructions.) It is possible to overdose on...

I would suggest a source of plain water too. That is a general good practice when adding anything to their water. (Exception: if there is a medicine they all need to receive, like Corid to treat coccidiosis, then they should not have a source of plain water.)

You showed a picture of a black hen. What other color hens were involved? Yes, lots of white chicks means lots of chicks that cannot show whether they have barring or blue.

If that rooster is the one with blue, and if he has just one blue gene, then he should give blue to about half of his chicks. But you can't see blue on a white chick, so that would mean half of the "blues" are invisible. Have you gotten any chicks that are primarily red or gold? If so, maybe...

That's great news! That is an impressive time savings right there. Definitely a good choice!

That definitely narrows down the options! I was thinking the same thing. He could be blue or splash, along with barring and dominant white, except that we aren't seeing the barring on his orange feathers. I don't know if blue or splash would make a difference in how barring shows on that part...

Short answer: yes, you can cull the chicks with black leakage, but I don't know whether that is the best choice. Just to make sure I am not mis-understanding here: White Laced Red has white single lacing on a red ground (one white edge on the red feather.) Jubilee has white double lacing or...

I don't know about your other questions, but I am pretty confident about this one: it will not make her a "bad brooder" in the future if you do that now.

Frizzle is a dominant gene, so frizzle feathers are pretty easy to introduce: Breed a frizzle to a chicken with normal feathers, and about half of the chicks will have frizzle feathers. For any chick with frizzle feathers, breeding it to a normal-feathered chicken will also produce about half...

Any kind of white can hide barring, because white barring on a white chicken is not exactly obvious.

I think they are confusing no matter what you call them. If you say "Cornish," then people assume you mean the big white Cornish Cross meat birds. If you say "Cornish Game," some people are going to think of those little chickens you can buy in the grocery store (Cornish Cross butchered...

Did you try this experiment? I'm curious whether you got any more like that pullet.

If you want adult chickens that are very large and also healthy, you probably need slow growth. Chickens that grow quickly to a large size are more likely to have health problems (extreme example: Cornish Cross meat chickens. They grow very fast, and if you can keep them alive to full maturity...

Hmm. I'm still unsure about the first one. I could see it being a male or a female. The second one is pretty clearly a male at any age.

I would not expect to find females with that much white, and I would not expect to find males & females looking that much like each other in amount of white. So I think you probably have 3 males there.

I'm fairly sure the second one is a cockerel (comb size & redness, plus the dark red feathers in the wing & shoulder areas.) I'm not sure about the other one. The comb is less big and less pink/red. There are a few reddish feathers in the wing area, but also some in the breast area, so that...

Honestly, to get really good layers with better longevity, I would probably just start with commercially produced sexlinks. Keep them for at least two years, and after that breed from whichever ones were still in good health. Each additional year that they stay in good health, hatch more chicks...

Yes, it is possible. It could be done commercially on a large scale, if the breeders decide they care (but that probably will not happen.) In a backyard flock, if you buy golden sexlink chicks, you might find that some of them have a normal lifespan (equal to other chickens.) And if you breed...