It probably depends on if she finds you suitable as the "rooster" but mine don't accept a human escort as a substitute.
Really no reason to be putting her in the box (if she was already laying and not using the box, that's a different matter). It's probably just stressing her out.
Some...
Nice looking mulch, how long ago was it that animals were last there (if you happen to know?) On one hand I'd be tempted to clear it out "just in case" and then replace it with similar, but on the other if there is any bacteria, parasites, etc. it's probably in the soil too so removing the...
Maybe see about putting a window or two in somewhere, even if you don't need it for ventilation having natural light inside a coop is always a plus, for both humans and chickens.
Not advocating the licking of unwashed eggs but I rarely wash eggs before using, so yes an occasional spot of dirt might fall in. If it's cooked thoroughly it shouldn't be an issue, and even though I like my eggs very under I still feel safe eating them that way.
4 sq ft is just the easiest general rule to go by. Some birds are fine with less. Some flocks need more than that. So averaging it out is a convenient way to get a rough calculation for numbers.
Not sure on the door... never tested that! It's more the location that they memorize. When I...
Oh ok, so very short distance move! Then really the main thing you'll want to do is make sure they have no access into the old coop. They'll likely huddle up next to it or as close as possible on the first few nights, but that makes it easier to round them up and put them in the new one...
I assume that means they're moving locations within in the yard and if so, you simply keep them confined to the new coop and run for a few days. They may need to be placed inside the coop a few nights before they get the hang of it.
Refrigeration slows bacterial growth as well as lengthens shelf life. Even with bloom left intact eggs at room temperature don't stay "fresh" as long as ones kept at a constant cold temperature. Since we're heading into winter I'm stockpiling eggs now for use 3, 4, 5 months from now, which is...
Lol well you already ordered but yes, I think the plan is doable. Just mind any temperature restrictions on the heat plate (a heat lamp with an incandescent bulb may be enough to bring the area around the plate up to temperature if needed), and hope that by the time November rolls around it...
No way to know for sure. She might not allow it, or she might like it a lot and go around presenting herself for grooming.
Not sure. To figure that out you'd probably need to observe the flock's interaction for a while.
My guess is it's hormonal - now that they're laying the cockerel's advances are welcomed, so the girls are showing him some affection. Once it becomes a habit they'll likely return to doing it whenever his beard grows back enough for them to pick at again.
Some of my bearded birds (past and...
You can try pick-no-more lotion but it's not really a long term solution as it needs to be applied regularly (and it also stains purple).
I currently have 3 bearded hens and only 1 has an intact beard simply because she's too skittish to let the others groom her.
Normal and harmless (unless he's a show bird I suppose). Happens to most bearded birds and even moreso to males with an adoring flock of females. He'll stay patchy or bare chinned until his next molt, at which point the hens will simply preen him bald again.
Try mixing crushed eggshells with the oyster shell. A lot of birds prefer it and if they're both in the same dispenser they may end up grabbing some oyster too. You can bake them, boil them, or just let them air dry, whatever you feel comfortable with.