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perhaps. ive seen great fowl screwed up by those that didnt carry on the same methods. its a crap shoot when your fowl are spread around.

does this look like abused, ill fed, under watered fowl to you? these are old pics perhaps 4-5 yrs ago. but everything holds true today. i just dont have gamefowl any longer.

you let drain pipes from guttering drain out into yard. but angle them upwards. they will hold water for days and days, it will be cool to from being under ground. frogs will use it, fowl choose to drink outa this than from filled waters. i believe it goes back to they prefer rain water over...

good post. thankyou. your flock is better off for it. and if anyone wanted sumatras theyd do well to choose fowl from your flock over those that have been molly-coddled. its good to hear from those that actually know from experience instead of assuming they know.

yes it would be wisdom on your part to leave things alone and mind your own business. esp. when your assuming something wrong and making an *** of yourself trying to stir up trouble for others. nuff said.

i cant do nothing but tell you. it all goes back to my post on pre conceived notions, or making assumptions, if you will. if you choose not to prove/disprove something for your self then dont slam the next man, for doing something that has been proven not only by myself for decades but by...

since you are feeding soaked feed. you dont NEED to ever give them any more water. some conditioning methods for game fowl require water to be taken from them for a couple of days. and they do just fine. you cant place human values or even other mammelian requirements on fowl. apples to oranges.

but what ya'll are missing, is that obvously they do find moisture. they learn to range, and get tough. there is dew, there is spillage from the waterer, there is drain lines from the gutters. if they want to drink they will find it. if there is any weakness at all they are culled...

forgot to add, my brooder is one i built, copied after the metal brooders you see for sale. they are up on wire, with a droppings pan that i can slide in and out to empty. heat is from a light bulb that is adjustable from a dimmer switch that i installed on the outside of the box. i dont...

i usually keep mine in a brooder box, till they are fully feathered, (except the head) with no real problems. now with the occasional yard hatched (unplanned, unexpected, unwanted) they are some tough lil biddies. the ones that survive are strong. they gotta be to keep up with mamma, and...

when i had some cocci here, it was brought in by some OEGB i shpped in. it was spread to some d'uccles that were penned beside them. i ended up culling all that were sick. but i firmly believe in that there is good in most all things. and that includes anti-biotics, meds, and the such...

as for vinegar, from my experience, its not all its cracked up to be. i do believe it helps with digestion, hence on rare occasions i put it in the auto. watering system for my meat rabbits. better digestion, means more feed consumption, means quicker weight gain. i also believe vinegar...

i enjoy the small tidbits that are out of the ordinary that a few early on posted up. but i must say, this thread has made me come back to this site and actually enjoy it. it has taken the basic run of mill ho-hum type information to another level that i never expected from this site. and...

believe you me, it more than getting by here. or it was. and you miss the point of its the "type" of protein. the protein in most all store bought feeds is plant based. soy beans usually. perhaps if you really spend some money and feed them pigeon type feed, you will get other types of peas...

it could be the source of protein itself causing problems in dogs. alot of the proteins is rendered animal fat. that is preserved to keep it from rotting. its the preservatives that arent good for any living thing. if you read the ingrediants and it mentions animal fats. stay away from it...

when i mentioned shaving. i didnt mean actual shaving. my fault for not explaining. dont use a razor. your just getting the feathers all gone down to bare skin. if you want just cut the feathers as close as possible with scissors. i dont worry about a shelless egg until they get a yr or so...

this helps with feather mites too. side note. some folks will use NAIR to really get rid of the feather. makes um bald as a babys butt. now after shaving them, and you see they have a case of the" red arse". literally their butt looks like its red and chapped....this is a sign of good...

like drinking their own piss??? LOL!! must be pretty good for them. they are created quite well to populate.

one way to help with the heat is to cut the feathers off their "butts" take it back to the skin. cut it around their vents. getting rid of the feathers in this area all the way down to between their legs will allow alot of natural body heat to escape. this is a good method for breeders too...

one thing ive learned only in the past 6-7 yrs with fowl, even though ive had them for well over 30yrs. is never let pre-conceived notions stop you from trying something. i used to think like most here that if it wont in the"book" it was a bunch of hoop-lah. but one individual i knew kept...