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some birds can't handle the heat as easy as others... it's heartbreaking.. but it happens.. I have hatched out a lot of Delaware chicks from shipped eggs.. and they seem to be doomed from the start... pretty much if something bad will happen to one of my birds.. it will be one of my Delawares...

if your hygrometers are accurate then you should fine with the high humidity.. I've had it as high as 90% at hatch with no problems.. just had to move the chicks to the brooder so they could dry and fluff

curved or bent toes can be from a number of problems.. hereditary issues, riboflavin deficiency (vitamin B2), incubation temp too high (early hatches), also found in chicks which have been stuck in the shell for too long (very late hatches).. the usual cause though is the riboflavin deficiency...

overall for chickens the total lost would be 13% through the incubation... (some places say 12%) 13% over 21 days would be 0.62% per day .. by day 18 it would be 0.62 X 18 = 11.16% so when you collect the eggs you would weigh them.. then make a note of the weight before you put them into the...

hygrometers can change their accuracy between hatches (not every time.. but it happens often enough to warrant constant calibrating) which is why so many people get frustrated with their humidity readings.. even if the hygrometer was right once.. it can change over time.. so blindly trusting a...

grr.. so many of them have the air cell covered by their hand.. or down in the hole of the candler.. or angled to show the embryo... did find a few more diagrams though from here: day 17 egg from here: https://www.backyardchickens.com/t/582286/just-candled-my-eggs/30 post 40 it's...

i think it's just a difference in the artists rendering dealing with the overall egg shape.. cause if you look at the colored one it's a lot more round of an egg ... either way if you have an air cell on day 18 that is the size of a day 7 air cell it's still way to small.. lol either way...

usually a swollen chick will be so large that it can't properly turn and pip the shell.. they die in the shell simply because they can't get out .. weaken .. run out of air and die for chicks that are swollen but have enough room they CAN get out on their own (like your chicks that hatched)...

again.. it's cause they were swollen up from the high humidity during incubation... just so you can compare.. page 8 of the brinsea handbook has a diagram: http://www.brinsea.com/pdffiles/Brinsea_Handbook.pdf also from http://guineafowlbirds.com/Guinea-Fowl-Articles/Egg-Hatch.html...

that was a swollen chick.. something else that can happen when they don't lose enough moisture during incubation.. sometimes they can hatch out (usually with help) .. but will usually die not long after hatch

yeah... mine usually hit anywhere between 25 to 35 here lately and the eggs have done great... if you are afraid they may be losing too much moisture just candle them to see how the air cells are doing basically let the eggs and chicks tell you if you need to add any moisture or not

not really.. depending on the size of the bator.. amount of chicks hatching and the room humidity you can actually get away with adding 0 water to the bator if conditions are right.. since as each chick hatches the humidity naturally rises in the bator from the moisture on the chicks down as...

np.. you just really need to pay attention to your home environment.. then use the chicks and eggs as your guide... figuring it all out is the hard part.. but once you know your bator and how it reacts in your home during the different seasons of the year .. well.. after that it's sooo easy and...

since it's spring here and moister than our regular summer time droughts I am adding 0 water during incubation.. our home humidity is high enough to compensate for it.. so depending on how humid it is in your home you may find that the bator humidity is naturally 30% without any added water at...

if he's still a little weak later on you can try giving him something like save a chick in his water (heck.. they could all benefit from it) or if that's not available add a little sugar or poly-vi-sol (without iron) to their drinking water as a little boost to make sure he starts eating and...

excellent post Jungle.. you may want to update your first post in the thread to contain all that info (as you know many people will just read the first post in a thread and that way they can also see how things turned out for you and your chicks) And once again.. congrats on those new babies!

Exactly.. every hatch is never the same unless you have a climate controlled room where the incubator can sit unaffected by any outside influences... and even then bacteria can still destroy a hatch Pretty much what i do is follow my gut instincts.. I've been hatching out chicks all my life...

yup.. your incubation humidity was way too high.. so try the dry incubation method then see how they do at lockdown.. heck.. this spring has been so wet I'm not even adding water at lockdown and still getting 100% hatch rates on chickens As the first chick hatches the humidity shoots up and I...

I didn't want to jump to the conclusion that mbleily's chicks drowned since they didn't describe what condition they were in other than "totally formed and yoke absorbed". All they said about the air cells was "My candler will not see in to the blue or brown eggs and that is all I put in so I...

you can calibrate your hygrometers to see how far off they are.. I get mine from Amazon.. they are the kind that can also be adjusted.. so if I ever find they are reading off I can manually change them so they read correctly in all honesty .. once you get to know your bator and how it acts in...