10 week cockerel pretty aggressively mating older hens...ok or not?

[Michelley1001]

Hi all! I have 7, 10 week old chicks and 5 of them are cockerels. I also have 11 hens that are all laying and around a year old. The chicks were raised by a broody in the flock so they have grown up in this flock. Two of the cockerels I have noticed attempting to mate several of my Easter eggers (the Leghorns, RIR & barred rock won’t even let them get close). But one of the cockerels I just witnessed attempting to mate an EE hen but it really looked like he was just standing on top of her and if she would try to move her head up he’d peck it back towards him. He was on her for a while, several minutes which is longer than their normal attempts. I have a separate coop/run I am planning on putting the boys I don’t intend to keep but I haven’t felt the need to separate them yet. Would this type of behavior warrant that separation? And since I’m still trying to decide which cockerel to keep, does this sound like a red flag for this one? We really haven’t had any problems yet but I definitely don’t want them to start needlessly stressing out my hens because they are hormonal and fighting over them. Advice would be much appreciated! This is definitely new territory for me!

 

[BlueBaby]

I wouldn't keep him for breeding.

 

[aart]

I have a separate coop/run I am planning on putting the boys I don’t intend to keep but I haven’t felt the need to separate them yet. Would this type of behavior warrant that separation? And since I’m still trying to decide which cockerel to keep, does this sound like a red flag for this one?

Yes and Yes.

 

[Michelley1001]

Thank you!

Yes and Yes.

As of this morning he is in the separate coop/run. Should I put a few of the other cockerels with him, or not until they misbehave? There is only one other who is already trying to mate the laying hens but he is not as aggressive as this one was. There is one in particular that I like and have a good feeling about. He seems calm but alert and he has never tried to mess with the hens. Would it maybe be a good idea to put all the cockerels except him in the old coop/run together and leave only him with the flock? That way I can see how he does as the only male?

 

[aart]

It's very hard to chose one out of how ever many young males.
As they act differently together than they do separately.
What are your goals for breeding(the only practical reason to keep a male)?
That's how I do it. Pick the best for breeding, get rid of the rest, and work with the remaining male to be 'polite'.

 

[Michelley1001]

It's very hard to chose one out of how ever many young males.
As they act differently together than they do separately.
What are your goals for breeding(the only practical reason to keep a male)?
That's how I do it. Pick the best for breeding, get rid of the rest, and work with the remaining male to be 'polite'.

I really just want to be able to have a self sustaining flock to some degree. I’m hoping that I can add chicks to my flock to replace ones I lose over time as hens go broody and give me the opportunity or even possibly using an incubator if I need to. So no major breeding goals, especially since these are just barnyard mixes. I really just want to be able to further my flock over the years from within if possible.

 

[Birdsonghill]

I have sometimes kept a few roosters with the girls when I had 25 or 30 birds and those roosters chosen did ok. But that is not always the norm! Roosters have different characters, just like people! In general, you need about 8 to 10 hens per rooster to keep down the overt competition. Often times, the best looking bird that will mate consistently, most or all the hens, is not the gentlest with the girls or the friendliest bird. For your goals, a single rooster is likely best, running with the girls, unsupervised. aart nailed it. To prevent injury to hens a less aggressive rooster is best for you. I usually separate or cull the young cockerels as soon as they start showing a lot of "rooster" traits/behavior, and that varies from about 7 weeks to up to 20 weeks. A dual purpose breed is better sized for eating at 20 plus weeks, so often I keep them separate from the girls after 6 to 8 weeks, selecting candidates for breeding from the cockerel flock and leaving/returning them to the girls or putting them(the best rooster prospects) in their own individual coop/run for safety. I ask friends if they need a rooster or cook them up as is needed/necessary, eating the boys first, that missed my selection process for possible replacement roosters. I am not an expert on breeding chickens, but some roosters are not either! Do not always select just for the most tame or "gentle" rooster or you may end up with no babies or less productive flocks. Balance the desirable traits as is best for your flock and you, along with the natural instincts and vigor of the best specimens of roosters. As in many things, a rooster somewhere in the middle range of temperament is likely best, more often, to run with the girls. Have fun and enjoy your chickens!

 

[LaFleche]

Would this type of behavior warrant that separation?

Yes, immediately.

And since I’m still trying to decide which cockerel to keep, does this sound like a red flag for this one?

Yes!

I definitely don’t want them to start needlessly stressing out my hens because they are hormonal and fighting over them

They already do according to your description.

 

[CaroleW]

My own goals are also a self-sustaining dual-purpose flock. There is a lot involved in that goal but it is summed up in the old farm saying "Breed the best, Eat the rest". There has to be a purpose in both the hens and roos. Extra cockerels are useful to me especially when there are meat shortages in the store, as I make use of all aspects of my self-sustaining flock.

 

[Birdsonghill]

I have stewed up my excess roosters and old hens for dog food and stored it in the freezer, when I did not use them for my table. Everything likes chicken. Culling your flock can be emotional for some, and even for me it has been difficult with some birds, occasionally. Culling is an important component of chicken raising! I want to caution beginners to not throw out their best rooster because he mates vigorously and it looks rough to you. A good rooster is not usually a considerate "lover"! If he is particularly aggressive and actually injures hens he must go, but an effective rooster will likely be a somewhat rough at times, at least. Allowing roosters to fight and get all worked up does not make for good roosters for breeding. Separate them at an early stage in the maturing process and select your replacement candidates to run with the girls, to avoid excessive testosterone battles in the coop. Remember to limit the roosters to no more than one per 8 to 10 hens and that many, only if you have selected carefully for birds that have established a relationship that minimizes confrontations. Good luck and enjoy your birds!