After 25 days no chicks

[MynikaFL]

Well it is evening of the 25th day and still no chicks so disappointed, with 32 eggs I was really hoping some would hatch, don't know what went wrong. Any suggestions? I will set just some regular eggs Monday so there is no expense involved and try our luck again. The temp stayed at 100 the entire time, kept the right hydration. The only question that I have is this, We have a bator that is Styrofoam, I have it on a table directly under an AC vent, as I said the temp stayed at 100 every day, could that vent still have had an affect on the eggs with the temp stable? Any suggestions would be great. I am so disappointed.

 

[MynikaFL]

Let me also add that after reading several posts on "floating" we tried it this evening, no rocking at all and all but 2 floated still with about 1/4th of the egg above water, again no rocking at all.

 

[Impress]

You never want your incubator near anything that can change temperature, having it right under that vent is a big no no. It may have looked like the temperature inside was stable, but it was probably working very hold to try to hold it, and with the extreme temperature difference constantly battering it, you may have had it fluctuating and not even known it. Did you make sure your thermometer was accurate before incubating?

but as for location, no sunny windows, no hot or cold vents, no big drafts. You want a room that holds a pretty steady temperature and an area in the room that holds it as well.

 

[MynikaFL]

Thank you for the information I will definitely move the bator Monday when I set the other eggs. Hopefully that was the problem but I hate that I found it out too late.

 

[Sally Sunshine]

Sorry to hear! your welcome to my notes, it may help!

Hatching 101
​

 

[MynikaFL]

Thank you for your notes, I have read them and will be starting a new hatch tomorrow evening hopefully. I just hate it because most of them were White and Lavender Orpingtons had a few Buff Brahmas and Light Brahmas too. But maybe the next ones will be more productive. I will keep your notes as reference though. Very good notes for sure.

 

[Sally Sunshine]

Good Luck with your next hatch!!

 

[chickengeorgeto]

I have yet to read a single post on how to handle and store eggs before putting them in the incubator or under a hen. That can be as if not more important than what the bator's temperature etc. is set on.

 

[Sally Sunshine]

I have yet to read a single post on how to handle and store eggs before putting them in the incubator or under a hen. That can be as if not more important than what the bator's temperature etc. is set on.

Then you havent read this....HATCHING 101 the link I set forth to read

Collection & Storage of Eggs
Sources for eggs are to search the BYC buy sell trade section, Craigslist and eBay. Your local thread on BYC may be the best bet for local eggs! Look for your local site in the “Social section” “Where am I? Where are You!” on BYC.

Choose eggs that are of good size, not abnormally big or small. Do NOT set dirty, cracked, or porous eggs.
Clinical studies at the University of Arkansas have shown that if your going to set a dirty egg, set the dirty egg, DO NOT SAND, WASH OR WIPE dirty eggs as hatchability decreases with these practices!
The washing and rubbing action also serves to force disease organisms through the pores of the shell. Place the eggs upright in an egg carton with the FAT, air cell end of the egg UP! Allow eggs to sit in a moderately cool, somewhat humid place for storage. Basements are great. Moderately cool means 55-65 degrees. Rotate your eggs a 3 times a day to keep the embryo from sticking. An easy way to turn all of the eggs at once is to place a thick book under one end of the carton, and later remove the book and put it under the other end of the carton, 3 times a day. Before adding eggs to the incubator always WARM eggs UP slowly to room temperature. IF THE EGGS ARE COLD Condensation can cause bacterial growth on the eggs! You can collect eggs up until 10 days or so, but after the 7th day lower hatch rates may result. Stored eggs take longer to hatch (about one hour per day of storage).

It is important to ALWAYS wash your hands before handling your hatching eggs!

Omphalitis, yolk sack infection is caused by a bacterium that enters through the porous egg shell and easily kills embryo's and newly hatched chicks. Unfortunately, incubation conditions are ideal for breeding bacteria as well as incubating eggs.
For more information on storing eggs refer to Recommendations for hatching egg handling and storage



​

Is it Fertile or Infertile?​

To check the fertility, simply break an egg in a bowl. Find the white spot on the yolk. If you do not, use a spoon to gently flip the yolk over until you find it.


If the egg is fertile, the white mark will be nearly perfectly round and in the center it will be yellow;
it will resemble a donut. If it is infertile, the white mark will not be very round, and in most cases, smaller than that of the fertile mark. If the egg is not fertile, the 'white mark' is called a "blastodisc". If the egg is fertile, the 'white mark' it is called a "blastoderm", and this means that cell division, because of fertilization, occurred. A link with more pics of fertile vs Non Eggs! https://www.backyardchickens.com/t/16008/how-to-tell-a-fertile-vs-infertile-egg-pictures​

 

[MynikaFL]

Well, I have sadly pulled the plug on the bator, and readied it for more eggs tomorrow, I have 3 eggs already sitting in the turner ready to go into the bator tomorrow, and hopefully will have more eggs tomorrow. I must get this right, and I will be reading your Hatching 101 over and over until I get it right. Moving the bator into another room away from any vents etc. Fingers crossed

The eggs that I will be adding tomorrow are practice eggs and no pure lines except my 3 silky eggs that I already have maybe I can get one or two more by tomorrow. The practice eggs already have good homes to go to if we are successful. Hatching 101 will be my guide.

Wish me luck!