All the help we can get!

[tumbles]

https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=4857717203864

My boyfriend brought home a Rhode Island Red chick today. I have been talking about having chickens someday, but we're not quite ready for her.
I am hoping some of you can help us figure out how to care for her (and others when we expand our flock). I love "tried & true" methods & am hoping to raise her as naturally/chemical free as possible. I don't think we"ll ever eat her because my children are in LOVE with Tumbles, but healthy eggs would be nice. She will need to be in a fenced coop, not allowing for free range (we have cats and 3 of them are hunters), but perhaps we will be able to make a larger coop that is portable so we can move it around the yard.

We live on the south side of Indianapolis, if anyone on here is willing/able to help us take care of her, I would love information.

There is so much information on the internet and it can be pretty confusing to decide the right method of chicken raising.

thanks Tumbles

 

[animallover505]

I recommend first and foremost that you get more chicks. She will be VERY lonely, chickens are flock animals.

 

[tumbles]

We plan to...as soon as we figure out what to do with her. She is currently living in a card board box.

 

[animallover505]

She has heat, right? What are you feeding? What type of bedding?

 

[EMcD]

• She needs something to serve as a brooder -- a safe, contained space you can heat. It can be as simple as a Rubbermaid (or similar bin) or a cage used for small animals.
• She needs bedding (something on the floor of the brooder) -- shavings or something soft. But do NOT use cedar shavings (it's sold for other small animals but isn't good for chickens).
• You need a chick feeder and waterer -- something safe that she can access but no deep or open water she can fall into.
• Obviously you need chick feed, but I'm assuming wherever she came from would have sold you that too
• You need a heat lamp to keep her warm for several weeks until her feathers are fully in.
• You need to get more chicks as soon as possible, at least 2 more. Chickens are not solitary animals and they need at least 3 to set up a pecking order. It's easier for them if they are about the same age, especially when you're just starting out.

Chicks are not hard to care for, but like many baby animals, you need to do it properly. Read up on this site, There's LOTS of information. Even some of the hatchery sites have basics to get you started.

But committing to chickens means you should learn as much as you can now, so you'll be ready when they need to be outside in a safe run and coop.

I'm sure you'll enjoy it!

 

[tumbles]

We currently have her in a card board box, with a heat lamp, feeder, waterer, shavings on the bottom & the store sent her home with food.
They did not mention "having one" wasn't a good idea, I will tell my BF we need more. It is our 4 year anniversary...so maybe we need 4
Do I need to get the same kind of chick? or can we mix them up?

We plan to build a coop, but that will take sometime. I looked at RIR pictures and saw she will not be a tiny chick for long, can they continue to live in a large box for a couple of weeks or do they need to have alot of room? Should we allow her/them time out in the yard or just keep them in for a while?

This site is very informative, Thank you for responding so quickly!!

 

[animallover505]

Mix 'em up! It's fun that way!

This is from Murray Mcmurray's chick care page

Poultry Need: Feed, Water, Heat, Light & Space.
[FONT=arial, helvetica]FEED:[/FONT] Use a commercial chick starter for the first 8 weeks. On the first day cover the litter with newspaper and spread some feed on the papers and have your feeders full also. This will allow the new birds to find the feed. Use a 2 foot feeder for each 25 chicks. After the first day remove the papers from the starting area. Please refer to the order blank for feed protein levels for the type of poultry you are ordering.
[FONT=arial, helvetica]WATER:[/FONT] Have a 1 gallon chick waterer for each 50 birds. DIP THE BEAK OF THE CHICK IN THE WATER BEFORE YOU TURN IT LOOSE. For the first 2 days add 3 tablespoons of table sugar to each quart of water for extra energy. For best results, have either Quik Chik, Broiler Booster, or an antibiotic in the water. Your birds will be thirsty when you get them. A taste of water right away helps them to find more water soon. Most baby bird loss is caused because the bird doesn't start to eat or drink. Never let your bird run out of water.
[FONT=arial, helvetica]HEAT:[/FONT] The temperature where the birds are should be 90 to 95 degrees for the first week. Reduce the temperature 5 degrees per week until you get to 70 degrees. Then they shouldn't need any more heat. A good source of heat is a 250 watt bulb. (Red bulbs are better than white. They cause less picking.) Hang it 18 inches from the floor. The temperature directly under the bulb will be higher than 90 degrees but the birds will adjust themselves to the area they like. Use 1 bulb for each 50 chicks in cold weather. Use 1 bulb for each 100 chicks in warm weather.
[FONT=arial, helvetica]LIGHT:[/FONT] If you use a heat bulb, this will also serve as the light you need. Otherwise, be sure to give your birds light. Use a 75 watt bulb on dark days. Have a small light for night - 15 watts or similar - to keep them from piling.
[FONT=arial, helvetica]SPACE:[/FONT] Try to provide 1/2 square foot per bird at the start. For starting 50 chicks use a draft shield (see below) and make a circle about 5 to 6 feet across. For 100 birds, make the circle 7 to 8 feet across.
[FONT=arial, helvetica]OTHER IMPORTANT MATTERS
DRAFT SHIELD:[/FONT] Cardboard put in a circle about 12 inches high around the birds helps cut down drafts on the floor. Be sure the circle is large enough to allow the birds to get away from the heat if they want to.
[FONT=arial, helvetica]LITTER:[/FONT] Wood shavings, rice hulls, or ground cobs make good litter. Do not use cedar chips,sawdust (It is too small and the birds may eat it instead of their food), or treated wood chips. Sand, straw, or dirt will also work but are not as good as the others. Put the litter all over the floor at least 1 inch thick. Keep it covered for the first day with newspapers to keep the chicks from eating the litter instead of the feed. To avoid possible leg problems, remove the papers after the first day for heavy breeds and meat birds and after the third day for lighter breeds.
[FONT=arial, helvetica]GRIT:[/FONT] Starting the 3rd day sprinkle baby grit on the feed daily as if you were salting your food. Avoid putting too much at any one time as the bird may fill up on it instead of the feed.
[FONT=arial, helvetica]PICKING: [/FONT]Baby birds will often pick each other if they are too hot, too crowded,or without fresh air. Occasionally bright light also causes them to pick. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure when it comes to picking. Sometimes, however, they pick for no apparent reason. To stop it try putting in fresh green grass clippings several times a day and darken the room. As a last resort, debeaking might have to be done. Try cutting off about one-third of the top bill. Do not cut the lower bill, just the top one. To treat birds that have been picked, smear pine tar or black grease on the injured area.
[FONT=arial, helvetica]SPECIAL SITUATIONS AFTER THE CHICKS ARRIVE
IF THE BIRDS HAD A HARD TRIP:[/FONT] Instead of using the standard feed and water suggestions listed, try this: Put 6 more tablespoons of sugar in each gallon of water. Then mix some of this extra sweet water with some of your feed to make a soupy mix. Give your birds this special feed and water mix for 3 to 4 days to get them over the effects of shipping.
[FONT=arial, helvetica]REAR END "PASTING UP":[/FONT] Sometimes the stress of shipping causes the manure to stick to the back of the bird. It is important to remove this daily. Pull off gently or, better yet, wash off with a cloth and warm water. It will disappear in a few days as the bird starts to grow.
[FONT=arial, helvetica]CORNISH X ROCKS AND BARBECUE:[/FONT] Try starting these groups on broiler starter. (The higher protein seems to help them avoid leg problems.) We would also recommend you not let these birds eat all they want. Fill the feeders each day and let the feed run out in the late afternoon. Research has shown these birds will grow just a fraction slower but have considerably less problems by not feeding them continuously. Also add extra amount of vitamins from the start. We recommend either Quik Chik or Broiler Booster in the water from start to finish.
[FONT=arial, helvetica]AFTER FOUR WEEKS:[/FONT]


1. Increase floor area to 3/4 square feet per bird.
2. Increase feeders to provide 2-1/2" to 3" of space per bird.
3. Increase waterers to one 5-gallon fount per 100 birds.
4. Make sure grit hopper is filled with proper sized grit. Check with your feed man.
5. Install roosts at back of brooder area. Allow four inches per bird with roost poles six inches apart.
6. Open windows in day-time. Leave only partly open at night.
7. Prevent water puddles around founts. Place founts on low wire platforms.
8. Birds can range outside on warm, sunny days, but only if clean range is available.

 

[animallover505]

Mix 'em up! It's fun that way!

This is from Murray Mcmurray's chick care page

Poultry Need: Feed, Water, Heat, Light & Space.
[FONT=arial, helvetica]FEED:[/FONT] Use a commercial chick starter for the first 8 weeks. On the first day cover the litter with newspaper and spread some feed on the papers and have your feeders full also. This will allow the new birds to find the feed. Use a 2 foot feeder for each 25 chicks. After the first day remove the papers from the starting area. Please refer to the order blank for feed protein levels for the type of poultry you are ordering.
[FONT=arial, helvetica]WATER:[/FONT] Have a 1 gallon chick waterer for each 50 birds. DIP THE BEAK OF THE CHICK IN THE WATER BEFORE YOU TURN IT LOOSE. For the first 2 days add 3 tablespoons of table sugar to each quart of water for extra energy. For best results, have either Quik Chik, Broiler Booster, or an antibiotic in the water. Your birds will be thirsty when you get them. A taste of water right away helps them to find more water soon. Most baby bird loss is caused because the bird doesn't start to eat or drink. Never let your bird run out of water.
[FONT=arial, helvetica]HEAT:[/FONT] The temperature where the birds are should be 90 to 95 degrees for the first week. Reduce the temperature 5 degrees per week until you get to 70 degrees. Then they shouldn't need any more heat. A good source of heat is a 250 watt bulb. (Red bulbs are better than white. They cause less picking.) Hang it 18 inches from the floor. The temperature directly under the bulb will be higher than 90 degrees but the birds will adjust themselves to the area they like. Use 1 bulb for each 50 chicks in cold weather. Use 1 bulb for each 100 chicks in warm weather.
[FONT=arial, helvetica]LIGHT:[/FONT] If you use a heat bulb, this will also serve as the light you need. Otherwise, be sure to give your birds light. Use a 75 watt bulb on dark days. Have a small light for night - 15 watts or similar - to keep them from piling.
[FONT=arial, helvetica]SPACE:[/FONT] Try to provide 1/2 square foot per bird at the start. For starting 50 chicks use a draft shield (see below) and make a circle about 5 to 6 feet across. For 100 birds, make the circle 7 to 8 feet across.
[FONT=arial, helvetica]OTHER IMPORTANT MATTERS
DRAFT SHIELD:[/FONT] Cardboard put in a circle about 12 inches high around the birds helps cut down drafts on the floor. Be sure the circle is large enough to allow the birds to get away from the heat if they want to.
[FONT=arial, helvetica]LITTER:[/FONT] Wood shavings, rice hulls, or ground cobs make good litter. Do not use cedar chips,sawdust (It is too small and the birds may eat it instead of their food), or treated wood chips. Sand, straw, or dirt will also work but are not as good as the others. Put the litter all over the floor at least 1 inch thick. Keep it covered for the first day with newspapers to keep the chicks from eating the litter instead of the feed. To avoid possible leg problems, remove the papers after the first day for heavy breeds and meat birds and after the third day for lighter breeds.
[FONT=arial, helvetica]GRIT:[/FONT] Starting the 3rd day sprinkle baby grit on the feed daily as if you were salting your food. Avoid putting too much at any one time as the bird may fill up on it instead of the feed.
[FONT=arial, helvetica]PICKING: [/FONT]Baby birds will often pick each other if they are too hot, too crowded,or without fresh air. Occasionally bright light also causes them to pick. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure when it comes to picking. Sometimes, however, they pick for no apparent reason. To stop it try putting in fresh green grass clippings several times a day and darken the room. As a last resort, debeaking might have to be done. Try cutting off about one-third of the top bill. Do not cut the lower bill, just the top one. To treat birds that have been picked, smear pine tar or black grease on the injured area.
[FONT=arial, helvetica]SPECIAL SITUATIONS AFTER THE CHICKS ARRIVE
IF THE BIRDS HAD A HARD TRIP:[/FONT] Instead of using the standard feed and water suggestions listed, try this: Put 6 more tablespoons of sugar in each gallon of water. Then mix some of this extra sweet water with some of your feed to make a soupy mix. Give your birds this special feed and water mix for 3 to 4 days to get them over the effects of shipping.
[FONT=arial, helvetica]REAR END "PASTING UP":[/FONT] Sometimes the stress of shipping causes the manure to stick to the back of the bird. It is important to remove this daily. Pull off gently or, better yet, wash off with a cloth and warm water. It will disappear in a few days as the bird starts to grow.
[FONT=arial, helvetica]CORNISH X ROCKS AND BARBECUE:[/FONT] Try starting these groups on broiler starter. (The higher protein seems to help them avoid leg problems.) We would also recommend you not let these birds eat all they want. Fill the feeders each day and let the feed run out in the late afternoon. Research has shown these birds will grow just a fraction slower but have considerably less problems by not feeding them continuously. Also add extra amount of vitamins from the start. We recommend either Quik Chik or Broiler Booster in the water from start to finish.
[FONT=arial, helvetica]AFTER FOUR WEEKS:[/FONT]


1. Increase floor area to 3/4 square feet per bird.
2. Increase feeders to provide 2-1/2" to 3" of space per bird.
3. Increase waterers to one 5-gallon fount per 100 birds.
4. Make sure grit hopper is filled with proper sized grit. Check with your feed man.
5. Install roosts at back of brooder area. Allow four inches per bird with roost poles six inches apart.
6. Open windows in day-time. Leave only partly open at night.
7. Prevent water puddles around founts. Place founts on low wire platforms.
8. Birds can range outside on warm, sunny days, but only if clean range is available.

 

[tumbles]

I feel like I should print that out & post it to my fridge for quick reference!! Very helpful, THANKS!!

Just told my BF we will need more chicks, you should have seen his face!! LOL

Tomorrow is chick shopping, any advice on what to look for? What kind to get?
He picked this one out of the bunch because the other chicks were pecking her...he felt bad for her & she became a gift. She seems normal now, but yesterday her head stayed down alot & she kept tumbling over (...her name, tumbles) but since late last night she stands tall & normal looking. She loves my BF & sits in his hands & falls asleep.

 

[animallover505]

I definitely recommend Orpingtons, they are big and fluffy and friendly, mine lay every other day. Cohins and Brahmas are feather-legged and sweet. Speckled Sussex, delewares, Plymouth rocks, and stars are also great.