Another Egg Question- hatching problems?

cspiritfarm

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I have a Pekin who is hatching her first clutch. She has one baby who has been working on hatching for about 24 hours now. The baby is breathing, wiggling and pipping (?). I am checking on them every few hours and I did see some small progress this morning.

From reading the egg emergency thread, it sounds like it could take up to 48 hours to hatch completely? Is there anything I need to look out for or any signs that I might need to intervene? I guess I just need some reassurance that this is normal.
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Update- The duckling has hatched, but is laying very listless. It is breathing and it's feet will move every once in a while. I am hoping it is just worn out from all of the hard work of hatching. If anyone has any suggestions, please share.
 
Yes, it's probably just tired. But next time, instead of "checking" every few hours, leave it be. Mom pumps up the humidity under her, and every time you lift her up to check (even if it's only a little bit) you are drying out the membranes on the pipped eggs under her, making it harder for them to get out of their eggs.
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It's worn out. It may rest for 6 hours. What you can do is give it some vitamin water with electrolytes. I actually make all my new babies take one zip of it and then I put them back down to rest. It gives them a jump start and it also contains probiotics which get their intestinal system started. There are many brands out there, but I like this one . It mixes very easy. 1 teaspoon per gallon of water. I give it to my ducks for the first week daily, then weekly until 10 weeks of age, after that once per month.
 
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Adding this to my post:

I'm using GQF Vitamin Plus . It mixes even in small quantities. A normal mixing is 1 teaspoon per 1 gallon. I usually mix half of it and store it in the fridge. This pack goes a long way and stores nicely in a mason jar. One pack is enough for 32 gallons.

It contains citric and sorbic acids, sodium citrate, salt, potassium choride, zink sulfate, ferrous sulfate, magnesium sulfate, dextrose, vanillin, vitamin a acetate, d-activaeted animal sterol (source of vitamin d3), d1-alpha tocopherol acetate, riboflain supplement, niacin, calcium pantothenate, menadione sodium bisulfite complex, folic acid, thiamin mononitrate, pyridoxine hydrochloride, d-biotin, dried exterococcus faeckum fermentation product, dried lactobacillus acidolphilus fermentation product, dried aspergillus niger fermentation extract, dried bacullus subtilis fermentation extract.

Guarnteed analysys per pound:
salt 5-6%
potassium min 1.5%
magnesium 0.25% min
vitamin a 550,000 IU min
vitamin d 80,000 IU min
vitamin e 800 IU min
menadione 1mg min
niacin 1,200mg min
thiamin 50mg min
riboflavin 50mg min
d-pantothenic acid 400mg min
pyridoxine 60mg min
folic acid 30mg min
biotin 6mg min
lactobacillus acidophilus 4.5 billion CFU min
enterococcus faecium 4.5 billion CFU min
 
Yes, it's probably just tired. But next time, instead of "checking" every few hours, leave it be. Mom pumps up the humidity under her, and every time you lift her up to check (even if it's only a little bit) you are drying out the membranes on the pipped eggs under her, making it harder for them to get out of their eggs. wink

Thank you for the information I appreciate it! Sorry for any confusion, when I referred to checking on it- this egg was off to the side, at the very edge of her nest. You can see it just by looking directly at the nest. She has been sitting next to it rather than directly on it. I never touched mom and I only touched the egg once. That was one of the reasons I have been concerned. Things just didn't seem right.​
 
Thank you Katharina. I am going to order some GQF Vitamin Plus to keep on hand. At the moment I have the Durvet Vitamin & Electrolyte mixture. How do you normally offer the vitamin & water mixture to the babies?
 
The first 3 days in a food mash, and in the drinking water on the side. After that only in their drinking water. It's ok for the mother to drink it too. Now they are older so they are getting it in their night drinking water in the duck house once per month.
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The one I've listed is in a powder form and stores nicely in a mason jar. One pack is enough for 32 gallons, which means I'm good for one year with a $4.25 pack. My ducks don't find green food out in my field in winter, due to snow, that's when I give to them twice per month.
 
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