I am looking for information on what ducks need for care. I know the basics for chickens and want to do right by my ducks (coming in 4 weeks time). I am getting Welsh Harliquin Females (congratulations!) if that makes a difference. So here are my questions.
1. In a cold weather environment (northern Ontario) what do they need for water in winter? A Pond? A water dish? I keep my runners and buffs at night in a shelter that is no colder than about 5C (40F), with a watering station that prevents bedding from getting soaked. In the watering station is a two gallon straight-sided stock pot. The straight sides keep them from tipping it over. They drink from it at night, and in the morning on sub-freezing days, or days that we don't go out first thing due to blizzard conditions, their morning refill of water is used for bathing. They figured this out for themselves, I just watch and cooperate. So I bring a pot of water, they splash for an hour, and then I replace it again and they drink from it the rest of the day. Most days, I empty the outside swim pans (concrete mixing pans, they are tough and easy to dump and refill) and hoses at night, then fill the pans in the morning. I do have a submersible heater, but don't use it much. Many people use heated livestock watering buckets or dog water buckets. Depends on availability of safe electrical hookups. I feel that ducks don't absolutely need ponds. In fact, ponds can be dangerous for ducks and make it more difficult to keep them safe.
2. With predators around and cant free range, what are space requirements like? Inside coop? outside in run? My ducks have about 7.5 sq.m (80 sf) in their winter shelter, and about 6 sq.m (65 sf) in their summer shelter. When I am not nearby, they stay in a 15 sq.m (160 sf) day pen, covered with fencing top, bottom and sides. On the bottom, there is coated chain link sandwiched between two 15 cm (6 in) boards that run around the edge of the pen. That is designed to keep larger animals from digging under and into the pen. From memory, I recall Storey's Guide to Raising Ducks recommending 2.5 sq.m (25 sf) per duck if they don't free range. Since we take our ducks out for walks two or three times a day, and have limited space, this was my best. I also recall the Guide recommending about 1/3 sq.m per duck for a small breed as shelter space.
3. What is the bare minimum in numbers for ducks to be happy? A pair? A trio? more? Some people have pairs, a few have a single duck due to extenuating circumstances, but it seems that three is the minimum that many of us feel is good. Ducks love a flock, and should any be separated due to illness or injury, or die, having three means there will be two left. Of course, sometimes one ends up with a single duck and needs to decide what to do from there. My aim was to have three ducks. I had read that mortality can be high, so I figured I should start with six. But ten was the minimum from the hatchery I wanted to order from. They sent an extra duckling. Drei and Neun passed away from illness. Then I found Romy and Michele, the Buffs. This is just a warning about "duck math."
4. For females do they need a nesting box? Or is the floor with bedding workable? My ducks have used cheese boxes for nesting boxes, but they got bored with them. They make their own nests from straw that I give them. They have also made nests just piling up wood shavings.
5. With heat for ducklings, how long till they can go outside and be without a heat source? (We are down to 12C here at night) Rule of thumb is 32C (90F) the first week, dropping about 2 degrees C (5 degrees F) per week till they are okay at the outdoor temperature. Since you are getting ducklings later in the year, you need to pay attention to keeping them warm enough especially at night, IMO. I found having a thermometer very helpful. Also, watching their behavior tells you if they are too warm or too cold. Many people on this forum are much less concerned about heat for ducklings, saying they are fine just cuddled together in a box. My approach is to give them extra care while young so that their bodies can use their energy for growth and development rather than for avoiding hypothermia. Once they are fully mature, about seven months for runners, then I don't hover so much. I just hate losing an animal I care for.
6. Do they need water and feed inside at night? As ducklings? As adults? As ducklings, yes, for the first several weeks. I kept them with food and water at night till they were ten weeks old. Others pull it a few weeks earlier. No food without water, or they may choke. I prefer giving the ducks food and water 24/7, as I feel it reduces stress especially with my rescues.
7. What is best to feed adult females? Layer ration like chickens? Flock raiser? People have been successful with either of those. I feed organic layer pellets, plus free choice oyster shell, treats, and what they can forage on walks. Fresh greens are a big boost, and I keep vitamins/electrolytes/probiotics handy for occasional extra nutritional support.
Anything else anyone can tell me would be great. I have used this website many times for researching chickens before mine came and am looking forward to joining the "duck side" of things.
Water management is key. Figure that out and you reduce your own anxiety. Ducks love water, and they splash. Keep triple antibiotic ointment on hand to treat bumblefoot early. Ducks are wonderful animals, full of personality. Give them fresh water in which to wash their heads frequently, starting when they are ducklings, to avoid infections of the eyes, ears, and sinuses.
Take a look at the watering systems used by gryeyes, tweetysvoice, 70%cocoa, OldGuy43, and others.
Ducklings can get themselves into surprising difficulties. Don't assume they won't get stuck, fall, run into things. Cats, dogs, people's feet, and little cousins are all dangerous.
Ducklings need three times the niacin chicks do. So if you have to use chick starter, add niacin to their water (100 to 150 mg per gallon) or sprinkle brewer's yeast on their food. Otherwise, they might have neurological problems that often present as leg problems.
I will stop for now . . . .
