chickens have worms

[noodles]

I need to know what to do.. one pooped and i noticed the worm squirming there.. I can deworm a dog, but never done a chicken before...

 

[NotTheMomma]

If you do a search on here for worms, you'll find plenty of info.

Good luck clearing everyone out.

Hugs!

 

[Glenda L Heywood]

worming is simple but you have to decide how you want to worm the group of chicks

first how old are they?
HERE IS WHAT I WOULD DO
(1) is wazine for round worms
(2) is the Ivermectin for other worms ezcept tape worms
(3) is the using Diatomaceous Earth DE in the feed daily
(4) herbal wormer is cayanne pepper in the feed daily
so read this carefully
FIRST WORM WITH WAZINE either kind

NUMBER ONE WORMING
(1) by worming for round worms only that will get most of the round worms
which is enough o kill off at first
the chickens body will use the dead worms as protein and it will then need to wait 10 days to worm for other worms

here is some thoughts on worming from my friend Nathalie Ross

(2)Often vets recommend a routine worming program to kill
worms not found. Worms aren't always shed into the fecal matter, nor
are their eggs, but that doesn't mean they aren't up there chowing down
on your birds' food in the gut and leaving scars which make it harder
for the birds to digest feed in the future.

(3 worms
So, think about a twice a year worming program. My personal program is
to worm in the fall with Ivermectin, in the spring with either
Ivermectin or another BROAD spectrum medication like tramisol or worm-ex.
Note: I didn't mention piperazine. Piperazine is a one-worm wormer

- NUMBER ONE WORMING WITH WAZINE

(4) rounds only. You'll want to use it for your very first worming to decrease
the parasite loads (which are undetectable unless they're really very
heavy) to prevent the possibility of the bird going into anaphylactic
shock or being blocked. These two last dreadful things can happen if
there are parasites up there you don't know about, and you use a
super-wormer (like the 2 mentioned above) which kill everything all at once. So
do piperazine ( wazine is same medicine)the first time, or with new birds with unknown histories,
then use the super-wormers from then on.

Glenda L Heywood says this

NUMBER TWO WORMING IVERMECTIN

(5) Worming chickens..........ivomec kinds
Ivomec 1% is water soluable and injectable, fast
release and needs lowing down going thru the gut. that
is why they use proplene glycol 3 drops to 1 drop of
ivemec 1%.
5% pour on is oil based and only used on shoulder of
the bird in drops. Slow release going into the
body
Something I noticed when comparing labels is that
Ivermectin Pour-On( 5%) kills both sucking & biting lice
whereas Ivermectin Injectable(1%) kills sucking lice but
not biting lice.

The words that people can't eat the eggs after worming is this:
It just means that the eggs can't be used for 10 days
A friend of mine Nathalie Ross gave this infoon using Ivermectin


If you go with Ivermectin injectable, you'll also need to buy propylene glycol to use with the injectable.
By the time you do this, you've spent the same amount of money as the pour on with what I feel isn't the
same level of effectiveness honestly, but some
people have access to injectable and not pour on so it's an option.

For the pour on Ivermectin (not Eprinex) the dosage I
use is as follows:
1 drop - OEGB sized small bantam female
2 drops - OEGB sized small bantam male
3 drops - average bantams
4 drops - large bantams, small commercial fowl
5 drops - most commercial fowl, small giant hens
6 drops - giant breeds of chicken

I always use a 3 cc syringe that I just fill to about
2 cc's with a 20 gauge needle. The needle WON'T be injected into the chicken, but does make it easier to dispense a controlled correct sized drop. It also is easier to get in there between the feathers.

For location, you'll want to find an easy to reach
spot with as little fluff as possible. I've had the
best luck with the back of the neck when I am by myself.

I just pick up the chicken in my left
hand, ruffle around the feathers with my right hand until I find a nice clear spot, then rotate the syringe around to dispense the drops exactly on the skin.

If you hit the fluff, it will soak in before
you can do anything and will be wasted. That stuff soaks in like lightening (which I discovered to my horror when I accidently got about 1 cc of it on me from the bottle - I'm worm free now!)
after giving Ivermectin.

Do the throwing of the eggs away for 10 days and then the medication will be out of the gut of the chickens

But at least you would rid the chickens of the worms which are eating 90% of the chickens daily feed!

they will be better off by getting the Chemical wormer first ( I would give wazine first then in 10 days the ivermectin)
so the chickens body can be rid of the adult round worms and then the other worms from Iermectin

It will cause a less poisonous effect on the gut of the chickens. If not having been wormed before the killing of the round worms is enough for first time then in 19 days worm with Ivermectin

If after worming you want to get what adults are in the gut of the chickens you can put 2% of daily feed by giving DE

The chemical wormer goes into the blood stream and the DE worms by knicking the soft worms skin and they die of dehydration
so the chickens are covered both ways

NUMBER THREE WORMING DIATOMACEOUS EARTH

(6) Herbal way to worm I would do this when you finish worming with the other two ways

Worming chickens..........Okay the reason I believe in using a chemical wormer first is that they get to the blood stream and the kill off the worm larvea

then you can fee the DE with 20% of DE to 80% feed
for the amt you feed daily

DIATOMACEOUS EARTH
as the DE goes thru the gut and the diadems (which are fossil shells from the sea beds)
they knick the adult soft skined worms and the dehydrate and the chickens body uses the dead worms as protein

then the DE comes out in the chicken manure and the flies light on it and are knicked and killed

so it does doble duty

then you can use a herbal wormer like cayanne pepper

NUMBER FOUR WORMING HERBAL WITH CAYANNE PEPPER

(7) with that said
really if going with a herbal wormer
I would use cayanne pepper
as pumpkin seed doesn't get that amt of worms

feed crumbles 1 gallon
3 tbsp of cayanne pepper feed for 2 weeks
then feed it for life as it will worm them generally right along

also the cayanne pepper kills the coccidiosis germs

so that will keep your flock healthy
any questions just email me PM

 

[shelleyd2008]

Quote:
Wow! Lots of good info there! Thanks so much.

 

[Galen Bontrager]

To worm or not to worm.....

I can remember when I first got chickens... didn't see any reason why I would want to worm my birds... then some started to look just a little bit off.. nothing to get excited about... the eggs started to go thin shelled... but nothing to worry about... they started to look a bit skinny and lanky.. but figured it was just the food they were on.. and their droppings became watery..

But I didn't see one worm in any of their droppings..

So I didn't think it could possibly be worms.. how wrong I was..

Giving your birds .. garlic... for worming and red mite... sorry... doesn't work.. if you haven't had any with giving your birds this its just good luck not good management
Garlic helps their gut to keep the infestation down... but it doesn't clean them out

someone told me to give them garlic - ostensibly for red mite
and I've read somewhere - to try Paprika


But
Apple cider vinegar helps their systems keep clean.. but one again it doesn't get rid of worms, and it also helps with their digestion, and if they have any mucky stuff due to illness it helps them to break this up.. my mother used to have a tablespoon of it every morning for her arthritis..
I love vinegar... but it doesn't get rid of worms..

Piperazine... is excellent for getting rid of the large round worms in birds... but it doesn't touch any of the other worms they get.. so your better off getting a wormer that has an active ingredient called... Levamisole ... in it .. it will remove nearly all worms in birds.. and its sold for cattle ... sheep... and chickens.... Nilverm is one brand over here.. found in the cattle section of my feed store.. and you MUST always re worm them 10 days after you give them worming medication ... WHY ... I'm glad you asked.. the worming medications only remove the live worms.. not the worm eggs.. in 10 days the worm eggs will have hatched but not be old enough to lay any eggs themselves.. so re worming will get rid of just about 98% of worms in your birds...

All birds have worms... they can cope with them without any problems... but when the worm load becomes too high they can't cope.. the intestinal wall of the birds is then compromised... in other words its eaten.. it can then poison the birds.. or they can bleed to death... or they can get into other organs..

And this is the scary part..... the only time you see worms in the droppings is when the worm load is so high the birds are in danger of the above happening to them

So to the question of ... should I worm my birds.... short answer... YES..


Rule of thumb..

If you keep your birds in cages.... worm once a year.. once every 12 months

If you keep your birds in a back yard.... worm twice a year... every 6 months

If you keep your birds in a yard but allow them to free range a small area.. worm them 3 times a year... every 4 months

If you keep your birds as free range ... worm them 4 times a year... every 3 months

And always re medicate after 10 days to rid the bird of the eggs that have hatched.. if you wait any longer the hatched eggs will be able to lay eggs .. and the cycle will not be broken it will be as if you didn't worm them in the first place..

Would you like me to post information on how to worm
What to use
Withdrawl times
How worming medication works etc..

 

[sammi]

excellent post Galen..

 

[sammi]

if you live in an area where supplies are hard to find and need an online source for meds and wormers..:

http://www.firststatevetsupply.com/store/

when looking for supplies in a farm/feed store..look in the LIVESTOCK section..NOT just the poultry section..

to add to the above posts...I agree with Ms Heywood's post about using wazine (piperazine)for the first worming, especially for suspected heavy loads.
if the birds are carrying a heavy worm load, it's my opinion to use Wazine 17 (or Piperazine) first, since round worms are common and this will rid them initially and help prevent possible shock or damage to the innards from blockage or blow-out...
then instead of using the Wazine for the 10-14 day retreatment..use the broader spectrum wormer.

this IS just my opinion, and everyone has their own way.