Coccidiosis and Strongyle - medication type and dosage?

[FunClucks]

The vet did a fecal float and told me he found coccidiosis and strongyle. I'm confused exactly which worms are strongyle (he told me hookworms, but I don't think that's right?). He also told me to treat with Panacur and Corid in the water. I looked around on here, and think I've identified products and dosages needed to treat my hens, but would like someone to take a look at what I found. Planning to start treating them in the morning. Also what is the withholding time for eggs?

On hand I have Valbazen, Corid liquid 9.6%, Panacur liquid and Safe-Guard liquid goat dewormer (Fenbendazole 100 mg/mL).

I have 3 mL syringes, and would prefer to dose orally if possible, because I won't be around during the day, and am afraid if I give them a limited amount of medicated water they'll run out. Their normal waterers are 5 gallon buckets with horizontal nipples.

Plan to treat:

Corid dosage 0.1 mL / lb body weight orally 1x a day for one day. (to treat the coccidiosis) Should I do more than one day or a higher dosage?

Safeguard liquid goat dewormer 0.23mL / lb body weight orally 1x a day for 5 days. For the strongyle, whatever that is.

Background and symptoms:

I have three coops, only the birds in one coop are showing signs, which include poop trails down their butt feathers below their vent, foamy light tan poop occasionally, and I've noticed a few birds having some weight loss I think. There are 10 adult females in the affected coop, and three 5-6 week old chicks (they're almost fully feathered, just missing the head feathers). I've noticed the poop trails on 3-4 of the adult birds, but figured I'd better treat them all (they are kept confined at all times due to predator load). Weights range from 5 lbs and down to maybe 3? or less for the adult hens, and of course there's the chicks (production red/prairie bluebell cross, they take after the production red in sizing). The hens are an ISA Brown, golden comet, buff orpington, starlight green eggers and prairie bluebells. One of the hens is still mothering her chicks.

 

[Wyorp Rock]

The vet did a fecal float and told me he found coccidiosis and strongyle. I'm confused exactly which worms are strongyle (he told me hookworms, but I don't think that's right?). He also told me to treat with Panacur and Corid in the water.

Strongyles are in the roundworm "family". Likely what you are dealing with is Threadworm, but hard to know, your vet should be able to give you more info.

Put the Corid in the flock's water.
Liquid Corid dose is 2tsp or Powdered Corid Dose is 1 1/2tsp per gallon of water given for 5-7 days as the only source of drinking water.
Do not add any extra vitamins/electrolytes that contain B1(Thiamine) to food or water during the course of treatment.

Panacur or Safeguard are "name brands" for Fenbendazole. Your dosing of 0.23ml per pound of weight given orally for 5 days in a row is correct.

Dose each bird individually.
https://www.backyardchickens.com/ar...dications-to-all-poultry-and-waterfowl.73335/

 

[FunClucks]

Strongyles are in the roundworm "family". Likely what you are dealing with is Threadworm, but hard to know, your vet should be able to give you more info.

Put the Corid in the flock's water.
Liquid Corid dose is 2tsp or Powdered Corid Dose is 1 1/2tsp per gallon of water given for 5-7 days as the only source of drinking water.
Do not add any extra vitamins/electrolytes that contain B1(Thiamine) to food or water during the course of treatment.

Panacur or Safeguard are "name brands" for Fenbendazole. Your dosing of 0.23ml per pound of weight given orally for 5 days in a row is correct.

Dose each bird individually.
https://www.backyardchickens.com/ar...dications-to-all-poultry-and-waterfowl.73335/

Thank you so much!

The vet is willing to do fecals, but not terribly knowledgeable? interested? in chickens - he mostly focuses on other livestock. We had a case of capillaria (sp?) last year, I think that is also known as threadworm, so it is probably back again.

Do I need to change the water out every day for the Corid?

 

[dawg53]

Both Safeguard and Valbazen are broad spectrum wormers. Either will eliminate all types of poultry roundworms if properly dosed. Follow the Safeguard dosage and length of days instructions from @Wyorp Rock and your birds will be good to go.

I recommend that you start a regular worming routine; perhaps worming your birds once a quarter or every other month. Your soil is contaminated with worm eggs and probably bedding in the coops as well. Birds kept on the same soil are more likely to get worms.

I keep my birds penned and I worm my birds monthly. I prefer to use Valbazen, but Safeguard works just as well. I have sand in all the pens and coops which helps deter parasites and is easy to scoop poop and dispose of it. Sand helps keep everything as dry as possible which is key in deterring internal and external parasites.

 

[Eggcessive]

Thank you so much!

The vet is willing to do fecals, but not terribly knowledgeable? interested? in chickens - he mostly focuses on other livestock. We had a case of capillaria (sp?) last year, I think that is also known as threadworm, so it is probably back again.

Do I need to change the water out every day for the Corid?

Yes, the water should be changed daily and kept at shoulder height to prevent contamination of the water.

 

[FunClucks]

So, first day medication was administered. I tore small bits of bread and saturated them with the dewormer and a bit of honey. My son helped me get them into each chicken. Had one chicken steal someone else's dose and a half. The momma chicken ended up with a partial dose because she fed it to her chicks, in addition to their dosage. And we had two chickens that flat refused to eat their bread, even after we put them in the isolation cage by themselves with the bread. Maybe not enough honey? So I dosed by syringe the momma hen, and the two refusers. Everyone had at least one dose of Safeguard.

I put out two gallon waterers with 2 tsp Corid each, and they are drinking.

So we'll how this continues to go. I think we have a better handle on how to get each chicken to eat their own bread and no one else's, and will only need to dose by syringe for two or three hens. If I'm able to get up early enough to pull them off the roosts, we may do more with syringes, but it was nice to be able to dose up the bread, give it to my son, and have him administer. Now that he knows what to do, he'll only need my help for some of it. Putting each chicken in the isolation cage with her piece of bread works well for most of them.

Spoiled chickens don't want to eat their food until I put it in a dog bowl in the morning, so their crops were still pretty empty even if I didn't pull them off the roost first thing. I waited an hour or so and then filled the dog bowl after I dosed them. They kept fussing at me about it, but too bad.