Ear mites in Meat Rabbits

[balloonflower]

My silver fox breeding doe has ear mites again. I have been treating with oil and thought I had it knocked out, but again yesterday noticed the one ear nasty crusty. She doesn't like the oil treatment, but does allow me to do it.

She is just weaned from her last litter, and I had bred her again, but it didn't take. At least she hasn't gained any weight in 12 days, so either my buck didn't get it done or she stress miscarried when some stray dogs got into my garage and attacked the cages. Both possible. But it gives me an opportunity to possibly go with something stronger and knock the infestation out while not pregnant or nursing. I first noticed mites in May, so they've been around a while.

Should I go with something medicated, and if so what can I use safely for a doe used to breed meat rabbits. I would prefer to stick to natural, but the length of infestation is getting concerning, since I've been treating.

 

[balloonflower]

Thank you. I am aware of the basics, but am looking for some advice stemming from experience with treating mites in meat rabbits specifically, and how persistent specific treatments are.

 

[cassie]

I used to use something made for cats on my rabbits. I don't remember what it was but it worked. I would think anything that is safe to use in cats would be safe to use in rabbits. Are your hutches all wire or is there some wood? If there is wood, the mites may be hiding there and you might want to find some insecticide to treat the wood. Maybe something like is used on roosts in chicken houses to control mites would do the job.

 

[balloonflower]

My cages are all wire. The only thing in her cage that isn't wire is the wood nestbox. But, neither her kits nor any of my other buns have mites, so I think they are just deep in her ear, and unless I keep up the oil, they come back--it's been about a month since I wasn't seeing signs anymore.

I would agree that a product for cats would not harm the rabbit, but it's not really meant for food animals.

 

[cassie]

A product does not have to be specifically formulated for food animals in order to be suitable for use on them. The important thing is whether or not it will leave residues in the milk or meat. That is what is important.

 

[balloonflower]

I agree, which is why I am hoping for someone with experience in this. I don't have a vet that I can ask, and may try my feed store tomorrow, but thought I'd try here first (and they're not open on Sunday).

 

[George McLaughlin Jr.]

I've had rabbits, most of the time, for decades. There have been times that ear mites showed up, especially when we were living in Mexico and had to obtain stock wherever we could. Mineral oil has worked every time, without exception.

I don't think it's so much the composition of the oil (ingredients) as much as the fact that it smothers the mites, that makes it effective. It is important to use enough oil to get the entire inside of the ear and down into the ear canal.

The technique of applying the oil can be kind of humorous, as one can get splattered by an indignant rabbit. Depending on how easy or hard the rabbit is to work with, I place the rabbit on the ground and kneeling over it, with a thigh on either side. One hand needs to be on the nape of the animal's neck, to keep it from squirting away. I only remove that hand briefly, to position an ear so I can clearly see into the ear canal. Then, with my other hand, I squirt a full medicine dropper of oil as far into the ear as I can. Mind you, the rabbit won't like this a bit. But it won't do anything until you let go of his ears and head.

Repeat, in the other ear.

Now, you should hold onto the rabbit, keeping its ears pinned down, until you put it back in its cage. When you let go of the rabbit, step away as quickly as you can. It will shake its head and spatter oil all over the place! This shaking also effectively coats the entire inside of the rabbit's ears with oil.

One treatment may do the job. It's best to repeat treatment about two weeks later. I have never had a recurrence after two treatments.

Homesteading Edu will be posting a course on rabbitry in the next couple of months. I have most of the video footage already done in raw form. If you contact me I can probably send you a link for a large video file which shows how to do this. It won't be polished. But it'll show how to do it.

George

 

[balloonflower]

If you contact me I can probably send you a link for a large video file which shows how to do this. It won't be polished. But it'll show how to do it

Thank you. I have been treating with oil and think I'll probably just keep going, and I do know the process. Not really sure I want to deal with Ivermectin and have read such conflicting info on its use. So I'll just hope that I can get the oil deep enough.

 

[George McLaughlin Jr.]

Here's a link on using Ivomec. I have very limited experience with this, having only just used it for worms, a couple of times.
I wouldn't be afraid of it, as long as the doses is correct and one doesn't butcher for the prescribed time.
https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/ivermectin-for-rabbits.507559/

 

[balloonflower]

What I haven't figured out with the Ivo is regarding the breeding part--how long would have to wait until I could breed her again and the meds wouldn't transfer to kits. Is it the same as the recommended 30 day withdrawal for meat consumption.