Enclosing coop ?

[kjstanton]

Advice on enclosing the wire/ screened in area. I wanted to enclose it with wood but am not sure how to go about it. Should I keep the wire and just nail paneling to the frame? I plan to put it up on a platform that is a foot high.

 

[junebuggena]

Hardware cloth. It's 1/2 inch galvanized welded wire mesh. If you can get two fingers through a space, a raccoon can get it's whole hand in.

 

[kjstanton]

Hardware cloth. It's 1/2  inch galvanized welded wire mesh. If you can get two fingers through a space, a raccoon can get it's whole hand in.

I changed my message... I'm thinking of enclosing with wood where the wire part already is. I wanted to use the same wood but am having trouble finding it. It's 1/2 inch tung and groove cedar. Not sure how to get this done.

 

[Bryant Redhawk]

I'd go with a contrasting wood treatment. You should be able to find poplar or oak or perhaps pine in a similar T&G. Then you could stain or paint for a nice contrast with the current wood. I would remove the wire, no need for it to be there if you are enclosing the whole structure with wood.

 

[kjstanton]

I'd go with a contrasting wood treatment. You should be able to find poplar or oak or perhaps pine in a similar T&G. Then you could stain or paint for a nice contrast with the current wood. I would remove the wire, no need for it to be there if you are enclosing the whole structure with wood.

Sounds like a good idea, just have to find the right color. It sounds like you have done this before... How should I go about sealing it? Also I'm not sure I can remove the wire without damaging the wood, I pulled it and it's in there pretty good...

 

[Bryant Redhawk]

Since you are going to be hiding the wood that the wire is currently stapled to, it really is more a matter of not splitting that wood. I use an old thin blade (flat type) screwdriver and a hammer to lift staples enough to grab them with pliers, then it is pretty easy to use a rolling motion of the pliers to pull the staples. If the wire is set into a channel (grove) then you may not be able to remove it with out dismantling it at least part way so you can slide the panels of wire out then put the frame back together.

As far as a color to contrast and look good with what you have. I think a hunter green, barn red, would contrast well with the wood you already have.

when installing T&G, start at the bottom and work your way up. I use a special construction adhesive, F-26, but you can also use liquid nails or sika construction adhesive and you can nail or screw, I always use screws when ever possible.

For sealing new wood I like to use shellac thinned with denatured alcohol in a ratio of 3:1, this will seal the pores in the wood so stains will be more uniform in coloration. This same formulation works well if you want to paint new wood too.

 

[kjstanton]

Thank you for the confidence to take that wiring out. I went to lowed today and ended up with paneling. It is simply cheaper and hoping to be less time. The hope is that I can slide it in where the wire was, I may have to sand the sides to make it a bit skinnier... I will use nail glue to hold it in better. Oh and I did get some stain so it holds up longer and resist the rain. It's like a brick red/brown/ orange color with black grout. I had to get help to make sure paneling would be ok outside and to get the right stain. I'll post a pick later. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

 

[Bryant Redhawk]

If you have a router you could increase the width of the groove/channel in the frame by about 1/4" then if the paneling didn't fit, use the router to bring down one or both sides of the paneling so it fits nice and snug. some glue and a few tacks (finish nails or staples) will hold everything together nice and snug. A bead of paintable caulk along the seam will prevent water getting down in there and rotting everything.

 

[kjstanton]

Thank you for all the advice. I was wondering what to seel it with and how to secure it better. We were able to take the door off as a practice run for the rest of the coop. I'm going to pick up some finish nail and caulk today. It will take some time to do this part.then going to try and install two plexy shatter proof windows.

If you have a router you could increase the width of the groove/channel in the frame by about 1/4" then if the paneling didn't fit, use the router to bring down one or both sides of the paneling so it fits nice and snug.  some glue and a few tacks (finish nails or staples) will hold everything together nice and snug. A bead of paintable caulk along the seam will prevent water getting down in there and rotting everything.