Feeding Peafowl

[Flygirl1987]

I hope it is ok to ask these questions, and I hope not too basic. I am slowly working my way through all the sticky topics. This is my first experience with birds, and I want my birds to be healthy, happy, and well fed. And I do of course know that asking questions in no way can or will replace years of experience. I am in no way implying that. Furthermore people do what works for them so I would expect that an infinite number of combinations work especially since they are omnivores. One very experienced breeder told me he just feeds crumble made locally and that is all. He said that giving them treats and veggies and fruit and bread just throws everything out of balance. He says he feeds the corn mix only in the winter. That simple.

I am curious about the Kalmbach food specifically and food in general. And that being said I have tried several different foods and protein levels. So I have a few questions:
1. If food is made to enhance color with amino acids why wouldn't all food have the same amino acids? To those of you who have tried it does it make a noticeable difference?
2. KsKingBee you said you agreed to feed the Kalmbach for one molting. Why just one molt and not year round? Is there any long term damage from the higher calcium?
3. I see layer food that should only be fed during breeding season and only to hens. Well if you have hens and cocks together then how do you keep the cocks from eating the food? If they do eat it what is the greatest harm short and long term to the cock. Or do you not use layer food at all for Peafowl?
4. What percentage protein do you feed, and do you change food during breeding season?
5. Do you also give them "Poultry Conditioner" during the fall and winter and/or year round?
6. I am told repeatedly that too high of protein causes slipped tendons. Have you found this to be true?
7. Do you currently feed plant based protein food or animal protein since peas are omnivores?
8. When and how do you offer or use oyster shells? I have been told to offer it alone only during breeding season, or would you start it a month before?
9. I have tried food that my birds will not to the point of losing weight. I am talking especially about Dr. Polls food.
10. Do you find that they prefer crumble over pellets or vice versa? I have both out right now just to see.

I know that is a lot of basic questions, and I hope you don't mind.. Thank you in advance!

 

[KsKingBee]

Of course, it is ok to ask questions, especially since you have been researching and reading the stickies. Not all the answers are there but the basic background can be gleaned from all the different replies.

The breeder that only feeds the crumble and adds corn in the winter is much akin to what we do here. I know of no company in the US that makes a specific feed for peafowl, but all feeds are formulated with years of study for the best results or they would go out of business. I feed a Purina Game Bird feed produced by our local mill. It is 28% to which I add extra yeast and a product Bio-Mos for extra gut maintenance and gut health. I have it made into pellets because it is readily eaten with very little waste. This is given to all the breeders and chicks over 12 weeks of age. Chicks are given 23% until they go to the ground at twelve weeks. Giving chicks high protein and kept in small enclosures is where the leg problems arise. As long as they have plenty of room to exercise and run off the extra protein they do not have leg problems. When fed high protein feeds, exercise promotes muscle, feather, and bone growth.

1; Feather color is not added or subtracted by the feeds we use. I tried some products that advertised enhanced feather and egg color that did not do anything. Corn and crayfish will temporarily add color but will not last long. Feather color is not in the feather, it is reflected light that makes color. Feathers are prisms reflecting light, the quality of the feather structure makes the difference you see.

2; After using the Kalmbach Full Feather Plume we have decided it is very good feed. The reason for not using it year-round is two-fold. One is that the amount of calcium is too high for the cocks and can lead to kidney damage, and two, it is one-third to twice as expensive as what we normally feed.

3; We don't use layer feed because it is the excessive calcium that affects both the cock kidney and shell quality. We use Purina Gamebird Starter-Breeder.

4; 28%, no.

5; We plan to feed the Feather Plume feed every molt.

6; Slipped tendons are usually a problem caused by delayed hatching with the chick having trouble getting free of the shell.

7; I would love for there to be an animal-based protein feed. Those that are mainly for cats and dogs and as such have too much salt for birds.

8; Oyster shell is given separately during the breeding season in a side dish. The idea is if the hens feel a need for it they will eat it and not be forced to eat it in their regular feed.

9; Peafowl are not turkeys and should not be treated as such. Peas should be lean, tall, and slender to be healthy. It is their domestication and being kept in small enclosures and made fat with poor quality feeds that have nearly ruined peas.

You are welcome.

 

[Flygirl1987]

Thank you so much for taking the time to reply. I will respond to your answers tomorrow but I am flying asleep lol.

I am wondering if there is a forum where we can discuss the new USDA regs and if we have made any progress with it as of yet. I am doing all that is requested this week, but I had some questions and wanted to find a facebook group or forum where the topic isn't taboo.

 

[KsKingBee]

Discuss it here, it is not forbidden.

Here is the latest, note the term 'professionally accepted standard', that is the grandfather clause.

APHIS/USDA Guidelines for Auction CagesModified 1/20/2024APHIS/USDA Guidelines (Subpart F 3.137) were printed in the last newsletter and have beenposted to the club website and facebook. In order to check in caged animals (poultry, waterfowl, gamebirds, peafowl, rabbits, and warm room cages) your cages must meet these guidelines:1. Cages must have a solid bottom and be sturdy enough that they will not collapse if stacked.2. Cages must be constructed of sturdy wire that is small enough that the animal can not stick it head,or other body part through the wire. NO 2 x 2 or field wire or sharp edges on the cage interior toinjure animal.3. Clean food and water containers such as a clean tin can that is appropriate in size to the number ofanimals in the cage. NO SOLO CUPS, OLEO TUBS, OR CUT OFF SODA BOTTLES.4. Easy access door. (As far as cages consigned to the main arena, HOAGBA auction staff has neverhad a problem in the past, using wire cutters to remove a hog ring or two from the side wire to access a bird. An easy access door/opening could be obtain by removal of hog rings from side or topwire to gain entrance to remove a bird or animal. )5. Handles on the cage. (This only pertains to cages for aviary birds such as finches. Main arenacages at the auction are not solid wood and have been moved from one location to another in thepast without the use of handles. Add handles if you want to.6. Bedding in the cage. (Use straw or hay on solid bottom wooden cages to give birds footing7. LIVE ANIMAL (1 in block lettering) stickers on the cage. (Ignore for now. One can see whether thebird/animal is alove or not.)8. NO CARDBOARD BOXES except for warm room chicks.9. NO LAUNDARY BASKETS10. MINERAL TUBS must have holes cut into sides for ventilation. All cages must have 90% ventilation.APHIS/USDA regulations also state that live birds transported in the same primary enclosure must be ofthe same species or compatible species and maintained in compatible groups. If more than one bird isbeing transported, socially dependent birds must be able to see and hear each other.Primary enclosures used to transport live birds must be large enough to ensure that each bird containedtherein has sufficient space to turn about freely and to make normal postural adjustments; Provided,however, that certain species may be restricted in their movements according to professionallyaccepted standards when such freedom of movement would constitute a danger to the birds, their handlers, or other persons. (Typically-constructed peafowl cages which are long and narrow with an opening at one end for the tail to be outside the cage meet the professionally accepted standard. If one isconsigning flighty birds such as ringnecks and other fowl, you may construct cages without a lot of headroom so the birds are unable to jump up and injure themselves. Meets the pa standard.)

 

[Flygirl1987]

Ok. If this goes into effect -- well I read what Loretta Smith's post somewhere online talking about how they must be transported. My question which is extremely broad and general -- Is how is this going to impact the big auctions such as Mt. Hope where breeders count on being to sell their produce for the year? Also does it pertain to local swap meets too?

 

[KsKingBee]

I messaged Brad to see what he is doing. The Gardner KS auction is taking the 'professionally accepted standard' which means the same as we have always used. They are not going to mandate the "live bird' stickers either because "if you can't see the 'live bird' in the cage you are some kind of special stupid." They also do not require extra handles because they have never had a problem in the past.

 

[Flygirl1987]

So that means the auction can decide whether to abide by USDA or not? I mean since Mt. Hope has so many types of USDA regulated animals -- surely it has to abide by them, or can they choose which animals have to abide by USDA regs and which don't? I wish I could to the KS auction, but it is a little too far from SC. So I guess swap meets will definitely have a choice to use them, and it difficult to see why they would at a casual event.

 

[KsKingBee]

I think the auctions are going to pick and choose their battles. It will be a choice between losing consigners or the right to have an auction at all. The AWA has inserted the 'Professionally Accepted Standard' into their wordage so that will be the clause that will allow what has been used to date with the exception of the types of feeders, and size of wire. The stupid signage is still up in the air.