Getting Goats

[adna40082]

Hi everyone! So i currently have a huge flock with guineas, turkeys, chickens, and ducks. I am planning on adding goats! I was thinking of having Nubians and maybe Saanen goats. They would be for milk. I have done a ton of reading an research on them. I was wondering if anyone had any tips for me before getting them. I live close to STL about 20 minutes away in IL. We are getting a barn about 40x56. Some of it will be used for storing equipment like our tractors and such. It is going to be a pole barn. We will be building the stalls and interior. Any tips on the stalls?

We also have about 20 acres. We will be giving the goats about 4 or 5 to start. We plan on using electric fencing thats permanent But if we want to extended it we will still have the ability to do so.

So some of my questions are kinda open ended but:

Where can I find good hay? What kind of hay do they need? How much hay do they need and when (like how much does it differ during the season.)

During the winter can I grow and give them fodder? How much? What kind of seeds should I use?

I don't plan on having bucks since they are a lot more work. I want to use AI. How do I go about that? How do I find good buck semen? Will my vet do it for me? How much does it cost?

Is there anyone around the STL area that you guys might know that has dairy goats that I might be able to contact? I would like to have some hands on in person experience milking. If not what is the best way to learn how to?

What kind of feed and grain can I give the goats and when and how much?

I am sure I will have many more questions. Thank you everyone!

 

[chickenlittle21]

What kind of feed and grain can I give the goats and when and how much?

I feed my sheep stock n stable sweet feed and I'm pretty sure goats can eat it too. My sheep love to eat T&A (timothy and alfalfa) hay, I don't know if goats like it though. I keep my sheep in a pasture that's about an acre and they have a small barn that is just two horse stalls and for the bedding I use a combination of coastal hay, cedar shavings, and Stall Dry. I also give my sheep high fiber chopped hay and nutri drench. Here's the one for goats.

 

[sylviethecochin]

Where can I find good hay?

What kind of hay do they need?
How much hay do they need and when (like how much does it differ during the season.)

Timothy, orchard grass, clover, and alfalfa are all good for goats. Any quality grass hay is usually good. You want soft hay, and second crop is better than first, because first crop is coarser, and more "stalky." There is not really much substantial difference between second and third crop hay. Alfalfa is pretty high in calcium, so it can be problematic for a buck, but it is magnificent for a milking doe.

Any hay you buy should be dry. It should feel soft and have a good amount of leaves, if it is an alfalfa or clover-type. It should smell nice. If you get a chance to go to an ag show where they judge hay, do so. It'll show you what good hay should look, smell, and feel like.

The cheapest place to get hay will almost always be at a local farm (At least, in PA. Maybe it's different in Illinois). If you value your wallet, stay well away from Tractor Supply hay. Hay should be freely fed to ruminants.

During the winter can I grow and give them fodder? How much? What kind of seeds should I use?

Yes, as much as you want to, and almost all grains will work. Oats, peas, beans and barley grow.

I don't plan on having bucks since they are a lot more work. I want to use AI. How do I go about that? How do I find good buck semen? Will my vet do it for me? How much does it cost?

Most bucks aren't really much work, the problem is that they stink (which affects milk quality). You can buy frozen semen and the affiliated (expensive) equipment online if you're really into quality, or can't find someone who AIs goats locally.

Some vets will do it, but the vast majority will not. You might be in for quite the search.

One problem is that it's hard to get goats to go into season simultaneously, unless you have a teaser buck. At about fifty dollars a doe (At least, that's what the man charged for a cow) and probably a charge to come out to the farm, it might be cheaper and easier to just rent a buck for a few weeks.

I would like to have some hands on in person experience milking. If not what is the best way to learn how to?

'S really not hard. Clean the udder with soap before and afterwards, and use a gentle iodine dip (or any other gentle disinfectant) afterwards. I once helped at a (cow) dairy farm where they used diluted bleach, and I cannot imagine using that on myself, why would I do that to an animal?

Goats have small teats, so you can almost certainly get your entire hand over one. Squeeze from the top (with your thumb) and then squeeze the rest of your fingers from the top so that eventually your hand is closed around an empty teat. Relax fist and repeat. This is the easiest method, because minimal wrist movement is your friend. Dump the first few squirts, because they're nasty and will make the rest of your milk taste bad.

If you have tiny hands, or a doe with really big teats, you may have to pinch at the top of the teat and pull down, two- or three-fingered, (personal preference) in which case, lubricant. Very, very few does have teats that big. I recommend equate "therapeutic dry skin cream," because it's really thick and lasts a long time (I've used udder balm, and found that it got absorbed into the goat's or cow's skin, and there was that friction again) Also, the stuff doesn't drip, and if you use too much and a chunk falls into the bucket, you can strain it out without adding too much flavor to the milk.

Empty the udder entirely, because mastitis is an issue (though less of one, if she's feeding the kids; they're good at cleaning the udder for you). Remember that a doe is constantly producing milk, so if you're only getting a squirt every four times (once you're good at it), she's either empty or really good at holding her milk. It should take about twenty minutes to milk a doe, once you get decent at it.

This all goes far more smoothly if the goat likes you and is used to you handling her.

What kind of feed and grain can I give the goats and when and how much?

Probably about two or three cups per doe is plenty, when they're milking. [EDT: and you can use any grain or pellet mix that says goat or all-stock on the label. You've got a lot of choices.] Hay should be their main source of feed at all times, because they're ruminants and need fiber. Giving too much protein while they're pregnant can result in big kids, which is a problem. I really recommend feeding minerals free-choice, especially to production does, and while pregnant. Vitamin E deficiency hit us hard in dad's third year of raising goats, and we learned that lesson the hard way.


Additionally:

Tetanus vaccines. Hoof trimming. Polling vs not polling (horns vs no horns). Goats breed seasonally; they are limited by daylight. Never buy a goat with hoof rot if you live anywhere wet; it will infect your soil and if it starts off, it is really hard to eradicate.

Nubians are apparently really, really loud when they're in heat. We only ever had the one and she was a Boer cross, but I've heard tales. Saanens have less milk fat, which translates to less taste. Goat milk tastes better if you chill it really soon; cow milk is far more forgiving in that regard.

 

[adna40082]

Timothy, orchard grass, clover, and alfalfa are all good for goats. Any quality grass hay is usually good. You want soft hay, and second crop is better than first, because first crop is coarser, and more "stalky." There is not really much substantial difference between second and third crop hay. Alfalfa is pretty high in calcium, so it can be problematic for a buck, but it is magnificent for a milking doe.

Any hay you buy should be dry. It should feel soft and have a good amount of leaves, if it is an alfalfa or clover-type. It should smell nice. If you get a chance to go to an ag show where they judge hay, do so. It'll show you what good hay should look, smell, and feel like.

The cheapest place to get hay will almost always be at a local farm (At least, in PA. Maybe it's different in Illinois). If you value your wallet, stay well away from Tractor Supply hay. Hay should be freely fed to ruminants.

Yes, as much as you want to, and almost all grains will work. Oats, peas, beans and barley grow.


Most bucks aren't really much work, the problem is that they stink (which affects milk quality). You can buy frozen semen and the affiliated (expensive) equipment online if you're really into quality, or can't find someone who AIs goats locally.

Some vets will do it, but the vast majority will not. You might be in for quite the search.

One problem is that it's hard to get goats to go into season simultaneously, unless you have a teaser buck. At about fifty dollars a doe (At least, that's what the man charged for a cow) and probably a charge to come out to the farm, it might be cheaper and easier to just rent a buck for a few weeks.


'S really not hard. Clean the udder with soap before and afterwards, and use a gentle iodine dip (or any other gentle disinfectant) afterwards. I once helped at a (cow) dairy farm where they used diluted bleach, and I cannot imagine using that on myself, why would I do that to an animal?

Goats have small teats, so you can almost certainly get your entire hand over one. Squeeze from the top (with your thumb) and then squeeze the rest of your fingers from the top so that eventually your hand is closed around an empty teat. Relax fist and repeat. This is the easiest method, because minimal wrist movement is your friend. Dump the first few squirts, because they're nasty and will make the rest of your milk taste bad.

If you have tiny hands, or a doe with really big teats, you may have to pinch at the top of the teat and pull down, two- or three-fingered, (personal preference) in which case, lubricant. Very, very few does have teats that big. I recommend equate "therapeutic dry skin cream," because it's really thick and lasts a long time (I've used udder balm, and found that it got absorbed into the goat's or cow's skin, and there was that friction again) Also, the stuff doesn't drip, and if you use too much and a chunk falls into the bucket, you can strain it out without adding too much flavor to the milk.

Empty the udder entirely, because mastitis is an issue (though less of one, if she's feeding the kids; they're good at cleaning the udder for you). Remember that a doe is constantly producing milk, so if you're only getting a squirt every four times (once you're good at it), she's either empty or really good at holding her milk. It should take about twenty minutes to milk a doe, once you get decent at it.

This all goes far more smoothly if the goat likes you and is used to you handling her.


Probably about two or three cups per doe is plenty, when they're milking. [EDT: and you can use any grain or pellet mix that says goat or all-stock on the label. You've got a lot of choices.] Hay should be their main source of feed at all times, because they're ruminants and need fiber. Giving too much protein while they're pregnant can result in big kids, which is a problem. I really recommend feeding minerals free-choice, especially to production does, and while pregnant. Vitamin E deficiency hit us hard in dad's third year of raising goats, and we learned that lesson the hard way.


Additionally:

Tetanus vaccines. Hoof trimming. Polling vs not polling (horns vs no horns). Goats breed seasonally; they are limited by daylight. Never buy a goat with hoof rot if you live anywhere wet; it will infect your soil and if it starts off, it is really hard to eradicate.

Nubians are apparently really, really loud when they're in heat. We only ever had the one and she was a Boer cross, but I've heard tales. Saanens have less milk fat, which translates to less taste. Goat milk tastes better if you chill it really soon; cow milk is far more forgiving in that regard.

Thank you so much for the help. I am just getting started and im trying to learn as much information as I can before I start building. We are currently in the planning stage of the barn and I was to make sure I plan for everything before I build and actually get the goats.

 

[Araucana Nest]

I'm getting out of dairy goats.... have been dwindling down for a while. I have had Nubians, Saanens and Lamanchas.

Some of your questions are definitely area-related, like hay. Feed what you find in your area. They will get used to it. Feed high quality hay, usually called horse quality, barn kept.

I'd recommend getting a buck and putting him in with a wether companion in their own pen, away from the does. They are not difficult to keep with a good fence. Feed your boys ammonium chloride if they will get any grain at all, especially the wether. Don't forget that part, urinary claculi is an emergency and can be fatal.

Feed something that is for dairy goats. I have also fed a Mare and Foal feed at times. It isn't true that goats will eat anything. They can be very picky and they have special mineral requirements. If your water has calcium in it, the calcium will bind with copper and cause secondary copper deficiency. Get to know your soil, your water and balance these out with the diet you feed.

Buy only from clean tested herds. You want to have the herds tested negative for CAE and CL. The results should be shown to you. You want to visit the farm where you will purchase your starter herd from. It should be clean. The goats should all have good weight and shiny coats. A good breeder will continue to provide support after the sale. Check out their udders. The large breeds should have long teats. I can wrap my hand around my does' teats when milking. Buy tame, calm goats. Don't buy first fresheners until you have experience with goats. It has been my experience that people sell first fresheners because of milking or breeding issues.

Read up on vaccinations and deworming. There are some parasites, like the barber pole worm that will kill your goats before symptoms become apparent.

Best wishes on your adventure.

 

[adna40082]

I'm getting out of dairy goats.... have been dwindling down for a while. I have had Nubians, Saanens and Lamanchas.

Some of your questions are definitely area-related, like hay. Feed what you find in your area. They will get used to it. Feed high quality hay, usually called horse quality, barn kept.

I'd recommend getting a buck and putting him in with a wether companion in their own pen, away from the does. They are not difficult to keep with a good fence. Feed your boys ammonium chloride if they will get any grain at all, especially the wether. Don't forget that part, urinary claculi is an emergency and can be fatal.

Feed something that is for dairy goats. I have also fed a Mare and Foal feed at times. It isn't true that goats will eat anything. They can be very picky and they have special mineral requirements. If your water has calcium in it, the calcium will bind with copper and cause secondary copper deficiency. Get to know your soil, your water and balance these out with the diet you feed.

Buy only from clean tested herds. You want to have the herds tested negative for CAE and CL. The results should be shown to you. You want to visit the farm where you will purchase your starter herd from. It should be clean. The goats should all have good weight and shiny coats. A good breeder will continue to provide support after the sale. Check out their udders. The large breeds should have long teats. I can wrap my hand around my does' teats when milking. Buy tame, calm goats. Don't buy first fresheners until you have experience with goats. It has been my experience that people sell first fresheners because of milking or breeding issues.

Read up on vaccinations and deworming. There are some parasites, like the barber pole worm that will kill your goats before symptoms become apparent.

Best wishes on your adventure.

Thank you so much! This all has definitely helped.

 

[RebeccaRN]

Hi everyone! So i currently have a huge flock with guineas, turkeys, chickens, and ducks. I am planning on adding goats! I was thinking of having Nubians and maybe Saanen goats. They would be for milk. I have done a ton of reading an research on them. I was wondering if anyone had any tips for me before getting them. I live close to STL about 20 minutes away in IL. We are getting a barn about 40x56. Some of it will be used for storing equipment like our tractors and such. It is going to be a pole barn. We will be building the stalls and interior. Any tips on the stalls?

We also have about 20 acres. We will be giving the goats about 4 or 5 to start. We plan on using electric fencing thats permanent But if we want to extended it we will still have the ability to do so.

So some of my questions are kinda open ended but:

Where can I find good hay? What kind of hay do they need? How much hay do they need and when (like how much does it differ during the season.)

During the winter can I grow and give them fodder? How much? What kind of seeds should I use?

I don't plan on having bucks since they are a lot more work. I want to use AI. How do I go about that? How do I find good buck semen? Will my vet do it for me? How much does it cost?

Is there anyone around the STL area that you guys might know that has dairy goats that I might be able to contact? I would like to have some hands on in person experience milking. If not what is the best way to learn how to?

What kind of feed and grain can I give the goats and when and how much?

I am sure I will have many more questions. Thank you everyone!

I'm thinking of getting Nigerian Dwarfs for milk, i hear its the tastiest

 

[lomine]

I have a herd of Nigerian Dwarf goats (and 1 Mini Nubian). I have ND 3 bucks in their own area but it's alongside the does. Honestly, the bucks are way easier than the does. They're just better behaved and don't cause problems. It might be different with larger breeds. For AI, you'd have to buy semen from a breeder and have a vet ready to store it. Most likely you'd have to buy online and have it shipped. You'd have to inject your does with hormones to bring them into heat, and then have a vet inseminate the doe. There's a YouTube channel called Weed 'em & Reap that went through the process a few times and, if I remember right, it wasn't successful. Another option is to borrow a buck or do "driveway" breedings. Those have pros and cons of their own.

I feed my entire herd alfalfa year round. I get it in truck loads so throughout the year the quality goes up and down, but it's never terrible. Just sometimes has more stems. I used to buy it at a chain store but was never really happy (low quality, lots of feces). I now get it from a locally owned feed store. I've been going there for about a year and the owner now recognizes me enough to give a small discount. There's also other benefits to going to a local feed store versus the chain stores. Though I do still go to a chain store for other stuff.

I give Purina Dairy Goat feed to does in milk and the kids for the first few months. The kids only get max 1/4 cup a day and it's mostly so I can lure them into another stall for the night so I can milk their dams in the morning. Does get about a cup of grain in the milk stand. Large breed does would need more grain. The bucks will sometimes get BOSS during fall rut but they never get any grain. They don't need it.

I would recommend having a physical fence along with electric. If/when the electric fence fails they will go through it. Someone they seems to know if it isn't working. Guess they can sense it.

I first got to milk a goat by taking a cheese making class. But refreshed my knowledge through YouTube videos when I got my first goats (one was in milk). It's a bit harder with first freshners but it's a pretty easy process. I did buy a milking machine this year because my carpal tunnel caused a lot of hand and arm pain.

 

[adna40082]

I have a herd of Nigerian Dwarf goats (and 1 Mini Nubian). I have ND 3 bucks in their own area but it's alongside the does. Honestly, the bucks are way easier than the does. They're just better behaved and don't cause problems. It might be different with larger breeds. For AI, you'd have to buy semen from a breeder and have a vet ready to store it. Most likely you'd have to buy online and have it shipped. You'd have to inject your does with hormones to bring them into heat, and then have a vet inseminate the doe. There's a YouTube channel called Weed 'em & Reap that went through the process a few times and, if I remember right, it wasn't successful. Another option is to borrow a buck or do "driveway" breedings. Those have pros and cons of their own.

I feed my entire herd alfalfa year round. I get it in truck loads so throughout the year the quality goes up and down, but it's never terrible. Just sometimes has more stems. I used to buy it at a chain store but was never really happy (low quality, lots of feces). I now get it from a locally owned feed store. I've been going there for about a year and the owner now recognizes me enough to give a small discount. There's also other benefits to going to a local feed store versus the chain stores. Though I do still go to a chain store for other stuff.

I give Purina Dairy Goat feed to does in milk and the kids for the first few months. The kids only get max 1/4 cup a day and it's mostly so I can lure them into another stall for the night so I can milk their dams in the morning. Does get about a cup of grain in the milk stand. Large breed does would need more grain. The bucks will sometimes get BOSS during fall rut but they never get any grain. They don't need it.

I would recommend having a physical fence along with electric. If/when the electric fence fails they will go through it. Someone they seems to know if it isn't working. Guess they can sense it.

I first got to milk a goat by taking a cheese making class. But refreshed my knowledge through YouTube videos when I got my first goats (one was in milk). It's a bit harder with first freshners but it's a pretty easy process. I did buy a milking machine this year because my carpal tunnel caused a lot of hand and arm pain.

Do you have a problem with the bucks smelling? I heard that sometimes it can cause the does milk to taste off as well. Can I house them in one barn but have separate pastures for them?

 

[lomine]

Do you have a problem with the bucks smelling? I heard that sometimes it can cause the does milk to taste off as well. Can I house them in one barn but have separate pastures for them?

I have a four stall barn. The bucks have the end stall. They share an area under the roof (separated by fencing) and then their pasture links to the side and shares a few hundred feet of fence line with the does pasture. ND are year round breeders but they do go through a fall rut like other breeds. During rut they'll do the normal gross buck stuff and will be very stinky. The rest of the year they really aren't that bad, though I've been told by visitors I'm just used to the smell. I've never had a problem with my milk tasting off. And no one else who has tasted the milk or cheese I've made from it say anything about a goaty taste. It's usually the opposite, with them saying the goat milk/cheese they tried before was goaty but mine is very fresh and creamy.