The C&D Tetanus shots, de-worming and hoof trimming are all very necessary, but easy to learn to do. We also have to give selenium shots (BoSe) because our western Oregon soils (and feed) is deficient in this mineral. We only keep disbudded goats (horns removed when they are babies) because they can injure each other, themselves, or you and your kids with those horns.
The most important thing in the long run will be Good Fencing. Goats love to escape and they will get into mischief. They can get hit on the road, they can eat your neighbor's landscaping, or eat toxic shrubbery in your own yard.
That said, Pygmy wethers (neutered males) make wonderful pets. They are easy keepers, can actually get bladder stones if you feed them too rich. They are herd animals and will be happiest with another goat for a buddy. We did have one little pygmy guy, a bottle-baby "runt" from triplets, who was adopted by our old dog. She shared her doghouse AND her food bowl with him. She kept the big goats from bullying him. It was hilarious, and very sweet.
Our pygmies are kept well confined with hog panel fencing. It has smaller holes at the bottom so kids can't escape through the holes. Bigger goats will jump this low fence. "Combo" cattle panel fencing holds in our Nubians and Pygoras; it's about 56 inches high. The panels are 15 feet long and cost $14-18 apiece here, sometimes you can get "blems."
Good luck with your goaties! Look for a reputable breeder to buy your kids. You want to be sure they are healthy and well-started, especially if you are getting bottle-babies. Most breeders are more than happy to advise you after you take home your babies.
