HatchRite Incubator

[3RLivestockandFowl]

I just purchased a Hatchrite MP I84 incubator and was wondering if anyone could help me with it? When I purchased it, it had been completely taken apart and all the turner motors, fan motor, everything has been unplugged and disassembled. If anyone has pictures of the backside of their machines,I would LOVE to see pictures so I can hopefully reassemble mine correctly

 

[casportpony]

I just purchased a Hatchrite MP I84 incubator and was wondering if anyone could help me with it? When I purchased it, it had been completely taken apart and all the turner motors, fan motor, everything has been unplugged and disassembled. If anyone has pictures of the backside of their machines,I would LOVE to see pictures so I can hopefully reassemble mine correctly

@Kevin McCoy might be able to help:

Hi guys. My Hatchrite website has a new address:

Hatchrite Incubators - free documentation and advice

The site holds all the information I know about Hatchrite incubators, including manuals, videos, part numbers and manufacturers of HR parts, programming - you name it.

 

[3RLivestockandFowl]

@Kevin McCoy when I purchased my used HatchRite, the back door was removed. Can you tell me if you know what kind of material the back doors were made out of? I'm trying to have 1 made as I'm guessing it's necessary for optimum function?

 

[Kevin McCoy]

@3RLivestockandFowl

Yes, you absolutely need the back door. The heater won't warm up the chamber interior if there is no door. This may be dangerous as the heater will possibly overheat without the fan circulating air around it and through the chamber.

The back door (airbox) on my unit was wood, probably MDF, sheathed in something like Formica for humidity resistance and aesthetic reasons. I think you can buy MDF with a plastic coating applied for use in shelving. This might be an option.

To be honest, you could probably use unsheathed 1/2" plywood, but it would have to make good contact with the back of the unit to prevent large air leaks.

If there are too many air leaks, your humidity will drop and you will be running the boiler / humidity generator constantly to keep up. Use self-stick weatherstripping on the airbox edge to make a seal with the chassis.

You might want to put a coat of paint on the inside of your new airbox since it will be subject to high humidity. Don't let paint fumes get into your incubation chamber.

One of the videos on my website shows the airbox of my old CP50 pretty well. Note the location of the humidity hose fitting on my airbox. They are standard basement-sump-pump fittings that you can buy at Home Depot. I got my humidity hoses there too.

Here is a link to my video:

Hatchrite Rebuild Video #3 of 3

The airbox is shown at about 4:28 on this particular video. There are other videos you can watch that shows the rebuild process of my Hatchrite and the building/explanation of my humidity generator.

Other stuff: Make sure your new airbox is deep enough to clear the fan and heater by a few inches. There may be witness marks on the back of your unit, showing its original airbox size and the location of the its hinges. That may be useful to your fabricator.

Good luck with your Hatchrite!