If you have a thermometer (not the mercury kind) you can place in their box or brooder, then you can monitor the temperature by keeping it around 90 F the first week, 85 F the second, 80 the third, and so on, dropping about 5 degrees a week until they get to normal room temperature.
If you don't have and cannot get a thermometer, watch the ducklings closely. If they huddle and hunch under the lamp, they are still too cold. If they move away from the lamp they are too warm.
The lamp needs to be at least 18 inches away from the ducklings.
I use half inch hardware cloth and let the ceramic heat lamps (no light, just heat) sit on top (I have them in the metal fixtures that are standard for brooders). You can get the kind of fixtures with clamps and use something very sturdy that sits next to the brooder to attach the lamp, and move it up as they grow taller.
Ducklings need something underneath them that is not small enough to eat (silly birds) and choke on, something that is not too slick. If they are on a smooth surface, they can get splay leg, and that is not good. I plan to use old towels the first two or three weeks. They are soft, not slick, absorbent, and washable!
Make sure there are no drafts that can chill your babies. Chills are bad for wee ones.
In my house, I must make sure to keep the cats out of the area. Sheesh.
When I was younger, I lost some ducklings to a young cousin who kept opening the door to the room with the brooder, and letting the dog (a bird dog, no less) into the room.
If you can find waterfowl starter, that is best. Crumbles. In a pinch, chick starter - non-medicated unless you want to research the limited types of medications that some say are okay. After a couple of weeks, start mixing in grower rations bit by bit with the starter. Make sure they have water to avoid choking. I have been told putting clean marbles in the water dish prevents accidental drowning (another thing they will grow out of pretty soon).
I am sure I am missing something . . . .Oh, yes, if you use chick starter, that tends to be lower in niacin than ducklings need. So some supplemental niacin may be advisable. Also, ducklings are best to start out at about 20% protein in their rations, lowering to 18 percent after a couple of weeks, then to 16 or so after a few more weeks. Too much protein has been associated with "angel wing" the turning out of feathers at the ends of their wings.
Chick grit, a little sprinkled on their food at first, then free choice.
They need exercise, and like water, but before their adult feathers come in they can get tired and drown in water that is too deep. Their little bodies can lose heat fast, so I would use tepid water, not cold for little swims. And I would make sure to dry them off well afterward, and get them right back under the heat source.
I will turn it over to other duck folks, now.
Enjoy!!
Congratulations!
