HELP!!

[DURR]

I need some help I had to help a baby pip completely cause he was sideways in the egg, I have his beak exposed and he is gapping in air, no chirps from him yet. But do I have to expose his nostrils? With the way he's in the shell its going to be hard for me to get his beak positioned right for his nostrils to be free of the membrane, and he's also shrink wrapped slightly it looks like. The membrane was completly white and stuck to him. I wetted it and put him back in the bator wrapped in a warm damp baby rag since I don't have paper towels at the moment, any advice? Should I keep a close eye on him and monitor him like a baby in ICU? Also I am not currently able to get good photos with out them being REAL blurry my camara on my phone sucks, also when he gapes for air he looks like a fish out of water he sticks his tounge out and everything is this normal or is he drowning?

 

[DURR]

Here's a picture of the baby before and after I helped him!

 

[Sally Sunshine]

this chick had an external pip?? can you get a better pic? I know its hard but I cant really see much, but it looks to be the right position its not low, its normal see....https://www.backyardchickens.com/a/step-by-step-guide-to-assisted-hatching

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TYPICALLY his beak is towards the LOWER DIP IN THE AIR CELL as shown below

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[DURR]

No he wasn't pipped at all I heard him last night chirpping and candled and tapped this morning, he's on day 25. And it looked like he pipped but he actually didn't. The membrane was still intact and the side of his head, his, wing, and feet were visible like he was laying sideways in the egg. He was trying to pip the side wall of the egg and had actually punctured a tiny tiny hole beneath the actual membrane. I don't want to lift him too much so he can settle and get accustumed to breathing. In the first pic you can see a piece of shell poked up on the right that is where he was trying to pip and it was below the air sack completely. He's still breathing and gaping but no sounds yet. There was a little blood when I gently pulled the membrane from his beak but that's drying up nicely. And when I take him out in an hour to dampen the membrane again I will take a picture of him. If he makes it his name will be pip. Cause he likes to kick when I talk to him and tell him he needs to be strong and try to make it for me. And he kicks like crazy when I call him pip. I'm hoping I'll get me a blue roo and hopefully it'll be him!! I'm estatic about this little guy and hope he makes it. He'd be the only one out of 30 eggs set within the past 2 months!!!

 

[Sally Sunshine]

No he wasn't pipped at all I heard him last night chirpping and candled and tapped this morning, he's on day 25. And it looked like he pipped but he actually didn't. The membrane was still intact and the side of his head, his, wing, and feet were visible like he was laying sideways in the egg. He was trying to pip the side wall of the egg and had actually punctured a tiny tiny hole beneath the actual membrane. I don't want to lift him too much so he can settle and get accustumed to breathing. In the first pic you can see a piece of shell poked up on the right that is where he was trying to pip and it was below the air sack completely. He's still breathing and gaping but no sounds yet. There was a little blood when I gently pulled the membrane from his beak but that's drying up nicely. And when I take him out in an hour to dampen the membrane again I will take a picture of him. If he makes it his name will be pip. Cause he likes to kick when I talk to him and tell him he needs to be strong and try to make it for me. And he kicks like crazy when I call him pip.

I'm hoping I'll get me a blue roo and hopefully it'll be him!! I'm estatic about this little guy and hope he makes it. He'd be the only one out of 30 eggs set within the past 2 months!!!

he was chirping so his lung had been acclimated pretty good before, are you sure it was this one chirping? you say you had blood, how long ago was this?

 

[Sally Sunshine]

I have some running to do, I will check in with you later, KIT please...

Follow the assist article on the other eggs... CANDLE TAP and if no internal or external pips or movement FLOAT test... link to float testing is also in the article... https://www.backyardchickens.com/a/step-by-step-guide-to-assisted-hatching

 

[DURR]

It was 2 hours ago since I pulled the membrane away from his beak. He's still breathing and moving and he is trying to chirp and there is only two other eggs with him and the others haven't pipped at all yet. They are on day 23 and 24. I did the float test on them on the 22nd day for each and all were still kicken. I haven't candle and tapped these guys yet but I will when I rewet the other guy.

 

[Sally Sunshine]

Just REMEMBER SLOWWWWWWWWWWWW!! And you may need to cailbrate thermometers as it seems your temps were prob running low or humidity too high.... see the section on temps here https://www.backyardchickens.com/a/hatching-eggs-101

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TEMPERATURE
Never trust the thermometer that comes with the incubator, always check it.
The thermometer that came with my incubator was off by 5 degrees.
That could mean life or death for your babies.
With a Forced Air Incubator (fan model) you can get the best hatch rate by keeping the temperature at 99.5º F. throughout the entire incubation period. HOWEVER, when using a Still Air incubator (no fan) at 102º F. The reason for different temperatures is that with a fan model the circulating air warms all around the egg while still air temperatures are warmer at the top of the egg than at the bottom. Therefore, increasing the temperature at the top of the egg will compensate for the egg's cooler parts. The temperature is measured at the level where the embryos develop (at the top of the egg). Minor fluctuations (less than ½ degree) above or below 100 degrees are tolerated. Temperatures only a degree or two above the recommended temperatures can kill chicks within 15-30 minutes depending on how high the temperature is and the developmental stage of the embryo. A high temperature tends to produce early hatches. A consistently cooler temperature tends to increase incubation times and produce weakened chicks. In both cases the total chicks hatched will be reduced. Prepare your incubator and run it for several days before adding eggs, to be positive you are maintaining correct incubation temperature. NOTE: It is common that when adding eggs the temperature will drop but should come back up to correct temperature within an hour or two. Don’t rest the thermometer's bulb touching the eggs or the incubator. Incorrect readings will result.

CALIBRATION! YES! It’s IMPORTANT!
Calibrate the thermometer/s you are using for your Incubator. I use 3 thermometers! You need to make sure your thermometer is reading correctly, Even one degree may cause serious problems with your hatch! A simple method without specialized instruments and knowledge is to compare your thermometer/hygrometer with other devices. If your thermometer (or the one you compare it with) goes at least from 0°C to 100°C you can also calibrate it with crushed ice. The thermometer should read 32 degrees in a mixture of crushed ice and a little water. If it reads, say, 30 degrees, then you can either adjust the thermometer until it is correct (if the style of the thermometer permits adjustment), or else you will at least know your thermometer reads 2 degrees too cool and adjust your thinking--and your incubator--accordingly.
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More information on Calibrating your thermometer/hygrometer ~
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-make-a-styrofoam-quotstill-airquot-egg-/step4/Calibrate-your-thermometerhygrometer/
http://www.swowea.org/Thermometer%20Calibration.pdf

Probe thermometer & water weasel (Water Wiggler, Water Snake) found on Amazon or Ebay make for EXCELLENT internal temp guides! The perfect internal temperature of an embryo is 99.5 degrees. If you can't find a water wiggler you can make your own with ziplock filled with water folded in half and insert the probe in the center middle.
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Examples of thermometers and hygrometers
I personally like to keep a digital one that also keeps track of “highs and lows” along with 2 incubator thermometers AND a PROBE! It depends on how scientific you plan your hatch!
More Important than make/model is CALIBRATION.
It NEEDS TO BE SPOT ON!

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[DURR]

They were low during incubation as I don't have a thermastat hooked up to my incubator cause the hubby is affraid he'd burn the house down. But I candled and tapped and got nothing. Floated and nothing. Cracked'em open and they had died it seems at day 16-17 or they were way behind. Also I just rewet the membrane and the little guy pushed and started to bleed, its been 5 mins and he's still alive do you think he'd be ok? I wrapped him back up and placed him in the bator. now I'm worried again.

 

[DURR]

He's still breathing and is now pushing on the shell above his beak. When would I know to help him out cause he's having trouble moving cause of his position in the shell?