Mareks is ever present in the environment...and the industry is finding the virus is mutating faster than the vaccines, making the vaccination process less effective and even undesirable as it is driving the virus into more virulent forms.
Even if you decide vaccination is the way to go, vaccinating is a big problem for the small backyard owner as the industry only sells the vaccine in lots of 1,000 which has to be shipped overnight, on ice, then mixed and given the next day within 30minutes to an hour as the vaccine becomes ineffective after that...meaning it can become very expensive to vaccinate just a few chicks and cumbersome to plan a shipment just in time for them. Thus most backyard owners do not vaccinate for Mareks.
With the emerging new strains, even the industry is breeding for resistance rather than relying on vaccination (See Journal of Virology link below). Many birds are exposed to Mareks and simply show no symptoms, ever, as their natural immune system throws off the virus enough so that it never creates the tumors...or doesn't until something compromises the immune system.
Typically then, for us small backyarders, we cull any bird that has Marek symptoms and breed forward those birds who stay healthy as they have shown a natural resistance.
I personally find it advisable to vary your flock so that you don't have all one breed at one age (like the commercial batteries have), and I periodically add in some store bought chicks that have been vaccinated, that way I have spread my risk such that if I get hit with a nasty strain of Mareks, chances are my whole flock won't go down.
I've even purposely purchased young Cochin pullets from a turkey farm (who are now my broodies) as turkeys are notorious for having the turkey strain, which has been used in the past to create the vaccine for the chicken strain. It is almost certain my Cochins have been exposed to the turkey strain and likely have a natural immunity built up to a lot of the chicken strains because of it. Unfortunately, if research is correct, they won't pass the turkey virus easily on to the chicks (my original hope) as turkey virus transmission between chickens appears to be low.
Old time farmers used to either raise turkeys around their chickens (good for chickens but bad for turkeys as they can succumb to Blackhead...histomonus... which is often peacefully carried by chickens) or placed turkey feathers in with the chickens to take advantage of the turkey strain to provide immunity.
But that is assuming the turkeys have the turkey strain and that the local strain for chickens is close enough to the turkey strain such that it would provide resistance to the tumor growth.
As to hatching and breeding...small breeders just go on, breeding for resistance...NPIP doesn't even cover Mareks (to my great surprise) so even choosing a NPIP organization doesn't guarantee Mareks has been screened....good news is that Marek's does not transmit from mother to egg, and purchasing hatching eggs will not bring in Mareks (although other disease could be carried in).
It is highly recommended that you separate your young chicks from your older birds, until age 20 to 25 weeks, so that the younger birds have a chance to build up their immune system before being exposed to Mareks from the older birds. I personally follow this practice with broody hens (my hopefully turkey inoculated) and my chicks being separate from the older birds....I integrate close to point of lay.
The literature is still coming out as the new strains and forms of Mareks take hold (typically now it is a bird that just isn't thrifty and slowly wastes away vs. the traditional paralysis appearing over night).
The best thing to do is to make sure your birds are kept in optimum health and cleanliness...no crowding, plentiful and clean food/water, clean litter, wormed regularly.
I highly recommend ACV in the water (raw, unfiltered with the mother, no metal containers) and the addition of yogurt periodically because optimum gut health is the first defense in the immune system. ACV helps with normal gut acidity and provides pectin and fermentation proteins to feed the good bacteria from the yogurt. I also recommend worming periodically so that worm overload doesn't drain the bird. (I like to use Hygromycin B in Durvet Strike III or even better Rooster Booster Triple Action Multi Wormer as it has probiotics as well as vitamins/minerals for a boost along with the wormer). Those wormers do not require withdrawal of eggs as they are FDA approved for laying hens (Hygromycin B is the only approved wormer)....but I note you are in Australia, so you may have a wider range of wormers available to you for layers.
You can also go off label for others, which work well too.
That, overall, is my understanding and approach.
LofMc
Prevention and Vaccination for Marek's
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/ps030
http://www.shagbarkbantams.com/page9.htm
Breeding for resistance rather than vaccination
http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3194948/
Australia specific
http://www.poultryhub.org/health/disease/types-of-disease/mareks-disease-virus-or-mdv/