Hi, I'm Pia!

Pia

In the Brooder
Dec 30, 2017
5
20
34
Central Kentucky
Hello! I'm from Central Kentucky. I recently got my first chickens: six light brahma pullets. They're a bit over a week old and thriving though there is one I've been keeping an eye on. I'm currently enjoying watching the chicks make friends in the brooder as they seem to have all paired off.

I've been around chickens my whole life. I was never very involved though so my father is getting a bit annoyed with my constantly calling him or popping in with questions about my ladies. That's how I found this site actually: googling my silly questions, i.e. "How quiet are chicks supposed to be?". Turns out they were just content. Phew!

I'm on the lookout for a prefab coop or plans for one to build. I'm not really in much of a hurry since my chicks are still in the brooder and will be for quite a while since it's winter and seems like it's going to be a cold one. So, if someone could point me in a good direction for that I'd be forever grateful.

Anyway, about me: I'm 28. An electrician. I live on a farm and also have cows, a goat, and a horse.

I can't wait to get to know the site and see what I can learn from all of you!

Pia
 
Welcome to BYC!:welcome
When looking for a coop here's some things you'll want to know or look for:)
-Space: Chickens need 4 square feet of space PER bird in the coop, and 10 sq ft per bird in the run area. Use chicken math- you'll want more chickens, so make sure you have at least 20 square feet of extra space!
-Ventilation: Chickens need ventilation, even in cold climates. You'll want 1 square foot of ventilation per bird, ideally. If you live in a place where it is hot in summer but cold in winter, being able to close some vents is very handy.
-Height- Make sure you can walk into the run and coop area or you'll forever regret it! Your chickens should have roosts in the coop that are about 4 feet high.
-Nesting Boxes: You'll need 1 nesting box for every 4-8 hens, so they have a place to lay their eggs. You should make sure you have at least 2 in your coop, so if you get more chickens, they have a place to lay.
-Insulation: If it gets below -10° C you'll want to invest in an insulated coop. The chickens will survive without it but they won't thrive and will be more prone to frostbite!
-Roofing: Decide if you want your run covered or roofed. If you have flying predators a cover or roof is a good idea. If it rains lots there, you may want to have a covered run to protect against mud.
Also, you'll want your chicks moved out of the brooder at 4-6 weeks old. By that time, they'll have their feathers, and will be able to regulate their own body temperature, as well as be a lot bigger. Don't throw them right out in the cold, though. Keep the heat lamp on them, raising it bit by bit to climatize them to the weather.:thumbsup
 
Hi @Pia and Welcome to the flock!

One of the things I have noticed about BYC is that if you google a chicken problem, the first hit that comes up is always posts from Back Yard Chickens.

Lots and lots of knowledge here for the new chicken owner and the seasoned flock master so don't be shy about asking questions.
 
Welcome to BYC!:welcome
When looking for a coop here's some things you'll want to know or look for:)
-Space: Chickens need 4 square feet of space PER bird in the coop, and 10 sq ft per bird in the run area. Use chicken math- you'll want more chickens, so make sure you have at least 20 square feet of extra space!
-Ventilation: Chickens need ventilation, even in cold climates. You'll want 1 square foot of ventilation per bird, ideally. If you live in a place where it is hot in summer but cold in winter, being able to close some vents is very handy.
-Height- Make sure you can walk into the run and coop area or you'll forever regret it! Your chickens should have roosts in the coop that are about 4 feet high.
-Nesting Boxes: You'll need 1 nesting box for every 4-8 hens, so they have a place to lay their eggs. You should make sure you have at least 2 in your coop, so if you get more chickens, they have a place to lay.
-Insulation: If it gets below -10° C you'll want to invest in an insulated coop. The chickens will survive without it but they won't thrive and will be more prone to frostbite!
-Roofing: Decide if you want your run covered or roofed. If you have flying predators a cover or roof is a good idea. If it rains lots there, you may want to have a covered run to protect against mud.
Also, you'll want your chicks moved out of the brooder at 4-6 weeks old. By that time, they'll have their feathers, and will be able to regulate their own body temperature, as well as be a lot bigger. Don't throw them right out in the cold, though. Keep the heat lamp on them, raising it bit by bit to climatize them to the weather.:thumbsup
Thank you so much! That's incredibly helpful and will make my search so much easier.

It definitely gets to below -10c here so insulation is something I need and hadn't considered. I've already been thinking of installing a solar panel and rigging up the coop with electric for lights and possibly heating. Kinda' corny given my profession but I want my girls happy and healthy. :)
 
Thank you so much! That's incredibly helpful and will make my search so much easier.

It definitely gets to below -10c here so insulation is something I need and hadn't considered. I've already been thinking of installing a solar panel and rigging up the coop with electric for lights and possibly heating. Kinda' corny given my profession but I want my girls happy and healthy. :)
Sounds like a plan! However there's a few things you should know first.
Chickens are animal eskimos- mine withstand (5 adults and 8 8 week old chicks) up to -35°C without a heat lamp fine.
When you provide additional heating often they'll become dependent on it, and like a dog or cat, their "winter coat" won't be as thick or warm as it should be.
If you want to provide heating on cold days that is okay, but I suggest a heat lamp vs another heating system. Heat lamps are a fire hazard, so make sure they are 18" above bedding level and dust-free. However they heat up objects, not the air! When you heat up another air (like in a house) they don't become climatized to the weather outside and depend on the warmth inside. If the power ever goes out you'll be screwed. Now, this is your personal choice- people have success without heating, and with, but it is something that should be brought up.
Lights are good, but if you keep your flock on a timed light (so "daylight" hours remain 12 hours or above), it can wear them out fast. Many people do this to promote laying, but hens do need breaks. Many hens lay well into their 5th and 6th years, even beyond, when lighting isn't used, but lighting is very efficient if you constantly replace or add to your flock.
Just some food for thought:) You'll love your chickens, I know!:thumbsup
 
Hello Pia and welcome to BYC!! It’s so nice to have you join us. welcome.gif

This video may help with learning how to navigate this site.


If you have any questions, please don’t hesitate to ask one of us. :)
 
Sounds like a plan! However there's a few things you should know first.
Chickens are animal eskimos- mine withstand (5 adults and 8 8 week old chicks) up to -35°C without a heat lamp fine.
When you provide additional heating often they'll become dependent on it, and like a dog or cat, their "winter coat" won't be as thick or warm as it should be.
If you want to provide heating on cold days that is okay, but I suggest a heat lamp vs another heating system. Heat lamps are a fire hazard, so make sure they are 18" above bedding level and dust-free. However they heat up objects, not the air! When you heat up another air (like in a house) they don't become climatized to the weather outside and depend on the warmth inside. If the power ever goes out you'll be screwed. Now, this is your personal choice- people have success without heating, and with, but it is something that should be brought up.
Lights are good, but if you keep your flock on a timed light (so "daylight" hours remain 12 hours or above), it can wear them out fast. Many people do this to promote laying, but hens do need breaks. Many hens lay well into their 5th and 6th years, even beyond, when lighting isn't used, but lighting is very efficient if you constantly replace or add to your flock.
Just some food for thought:) You'll love your chickens, I know!:thumbsup

They can withstand those types of temperatures?! I have so much to learn... I didn't realize they were as cold-hardy as they are and that's a relief. I was worried about that. Well, actually thinking about it, I should have known that since all my dad does for his chickens is provide them with a nice place to nest and hang out in winter. That's embarrassing and I'm definitely over thinking this.

And as for lighting, I hadn't considered timed lighting but instead strip lights at night so they have a bit of light to see. I don't want to force them to lay during winter, I figure if they didn't need a break they wouldn't take it.

Thanks again!
 
They can withstand those types of temperatures?! I have so much to learn... I didn't realize they were as cold-hardy as they are and that's a relief. I was worried about that. Well, actually thinking about it, I should have known that since all my dad does for his chickens is provide them with a nice place to nest and hang out in winter. That's embarrassing and I'm definitely over thinking this.

And as for lighting, I hadn't considered timed lighting but instead strip lights at night so they have a bit of light to see. I don't want to force them to lay during winter, I figure if they didn't need a break they wouldn't take it.

Thanks again!

Don't be embarassed! Everyone has to learn and everyone here loves to help:D
There is so much info here I am sure you'll find what you need. We've all been newbies, and I know when I started out I was super clueless. So ask whatever questions you need, BYC has always been friendly and helpful to me.:thumbsup
 

New posts New threads Active threads

Back
Top Bottom