How early do you let your hens out to free range?

that would be amazing! but I think OP said in the first post that the chickens in question are two years old.
My first flock from 2017 got annihilated in the Fall of 2022. The flock is from May 2023 through now. Same feed brand from a place called The Feed Store. I don't know how long they stay stressed, but the rooster's been gone since January, the mites almost 2 months, and they hardly molted. Today it rained so, they ate free worms. So no meal worms. Meal worms are not every day, I guess I misspoke. Meal worms are when I get around to visiting with them for a bit, and I spread them over a large area for them to scratch. If it's not meal worms it's 1 or 2 slices of bread soaked in water, another time it's left over meals (rare), or cuties. They love cuties. A cutie for each fluffy butt. In the summer maybe watermelon, and black berries from the yard when they grow.
 
My first flock from 2017 got annihilated in the Fall of 2022. The flock is from May 2023 through now. Same feed brand from a place called The Feed Store. I don't know how long they stay stressed, but the rooster's been gone since January, the mites almost 2 months, and they hardly molted. Today it rained so, they ate free worms. So no meal worms. Meal worms are not every day, I guess I misspoke. Meal worms are when I get around to visiting with them for a bit, and I spread them over a large area for them to scratch. If it's not meal worms it's 1 or 2 slices of bread soaked in water, another time it's left over meals (rare), or cuties. They love cuties. A cutie for each fluffy butt. In the summer maybe watermelon, and black berries from the yard when they grow.
Ok yeah none of that sounds excessive. We should find out more about the feed. My guess is (and this is just a wild guess based on my own experience) is that they need a protein boost to recover from the molt even if it was light. Between the stress and the molt if they aren’t getting enough protein they might just be lagging nutritionally and can’t catch up. If they are on layer feed, for instance, it might take something like Feather Fixer or all flock to get them back to where they need to be. I stopped feeding layer feed a long time ago because I had a mixed flock with older and younger heritage breeds. I noticed a much quicker molt recovery. It is worth a shot if nothing else seems to be working. I would continue letting them out early if there are no dawn predators where you are.
 
The funny thing is no one has shared any answers on sunlight really. So this is day two and I got two eggs in a row. That is a rarity. Been letting them out at 5:30am in Chicago and they go back to their coop by 7:50pm-8:15pm. Yesterday and today. I'll update if tomorrow is different.
I also have some anecdotal sunlight information. Right now my only two laying hens are in a chicken tractor in a very shady grove of chestnut trees. They have been laying an egg each almost every day. And they’re both four. Normally I would let them out but they are kind of being forced to function as a flock with the pullets I got a couple weeks ago. Once the pullets are big enough and pay attention to what the big girls are doing they will all get out to forage again.
 
They don't need direct sunlight. During to darkest part of the year when days are hort, after everyone is done molting, I provide supplemental light every evening to give them a total of 12 hours of light per day. But the supplemental light can actually be just a nightlight, it doesn't have to be all that bright.
 
Two cups is an insane amount of mealworms per day for four chickens. I don’t feed two cups of mealworms to three times as many birds in a month. Maybe I’m stingy.

Ok yeah none of that sounds excessive. We should find out more about the feed. My guess is (and this is just a wild guess based on my own experience) is that they need a protein boost to recover from the molt even if it was light. Between the stress and the molt if they aren’t getting enough protein they might just be lagging nutritionally and can’t catch up. If they are on layer feed, for instance, it might take something like Feather Fixer or all flock to get them back to where they need to be. I stopped feeding layer feed a long time ago because I had a mixed flock with older and younger heritage breeds. I noticed a much quicker molt recovery. It is worth a shot if nothing else seems to be working. I would continue letting them out early if there are no dawn predators where you are.
I thought that the meal worms were protein. They do eat the whole scoop (2 cups) but then again they run around and eat something all day.

Something I did change this weekend, we had bought a bucket and made holes at the bottom with four dangling washers and pvc pipe. The peck it and food comes out. It was an effort to lessen the squirrels and sparrows lounging around eating their feed. We created it just before fall and it holds 25 lbs. I thought that the added squirrels or sparrows were where the mites came from we also added the rooster within 3 weeks. Never had mites before. Could have been the rooster. Well anyway, my one layer was still laying but the other three weren't. Then one of them began eating the one egg, a different hen so I bought fake wooden eggs to their nest box. The whole point is that I felt they weren't picking the bucket enough do I gave them back their old feeder that they have all the access they want to the feed. That was Saturday, so maybe they wanted more food. And maybe that lead to the two days and two eggs per day.

I don't know, these Rhode Island Reds have been more hassle than my Orpingtons hens and my Plymouth Rock hen. And let me tell you about my one and only Naked Neck Rooster. He was aggressive. He was a rescused chicken. Didn't know if it was a rooster or hen so we called it Hooster. Once we knew we named him Bokoblin. He attacked me and my daughter on separate occasions.

I never had heat for hens before, always made sure to cover coop good so no drafts, don't know why he died, if it was too cold or maybe mite related. I think he brought the mites.
 
I thought that the meal worms were protein. They do eat the whole scoop (2 cups) but then again they run around and eat something all day.

Something I did change this weekend, we had bought a bucket and made holes at the bottom with four dangling washers and pvc pipe. The peck it and food comes out. It was an effort to lessen the squirrels and sparrows lounging around eating their feed. We created it just before fall and it holds 25 lbs. I thought that the added squirrels or sparrows were where the mites came from we also added the rooster within 3 weeks. Never had mites before. Could have been the rooster. Well anyway, my one layer was still laying but the other three weren't. Then one of them began eating the one egg, a different hen so I bought fake wooden eggs to their nest box. The whole point is that I felt they weren't picking the bucket enough do I gave them back their old feeder that they have all the access they want to the feed. That was Saturday, so maybe they wanted more food. And maybe that lead to the two days and two eggs per day.

I don't know, these Rhode Island Reds have been more hassle than my Orpingtons hens and my Plymouth Rock hen. And let me tell you about my one and only Naked Neck Rooster. He was aggressive. He was a rescused chicken. Didn't know if it was a rooster or hen so we called it Hooster. Once we knew we named him Bokoblin. He attacked me and my daughter on separate occasions.

I never had heat for hens before, always made sure to cover coop good so no drafts, don't know why he died, if it was too cold or maybe mite related. I think he brought the mites.
I think the meal worms have as much fat as protein. It sounds like the rooster brought in the mites and it’s possible an illness the hens are still fighting off. The low egg count might be the only hint they’re sick because by the time you know a chicken is sick it’s usually progressed too much for them to hide it. I would keep doing what you’re doing but keep an eye on them
 
never had heat for hens before, always made sure to cover coop good so no drafts,
But do you have good ventilation? There needs to be good airflow above the chickens' heads. Allow 1 sq ft of ventilation per bird. Otherwise you get buildup of ammonia which is toxic plus humidity which in cold weather can cause frostbite. Chickens are no more delicate to heat and cold than other birds if they have good ventilation as long as they don't get wet and aren't actually in a direct draft.
 
As for mealworms and other treats, anything other than their scientifically formulated crumbles, I've learned here not to give them more of that stuff than 10% of their total daily diet. Which is about 1 Tbsp per bird per day. If they're filling up on table scraps and scratch and so forth, they're eating that much less of their balanced nutrition, and that's not good. It's like letting little kids fill up on cake and ice cream and then wondering why they're overweight and malnourished.
 

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