How much roosting space do buff orpingtons need?

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I have 3 different colors of Orpingtons. None are buff, but they are all English so they are large. I have 6 of them, plus 2 Barnevelders which are still LF but smaller than the Orps. I have two roosts but of course everybody wants to sleep on the top roost only. The top roost is 7 feet long. On warm nights they like to spread out, while on cold nights they huddle together and take up about 2/3 of the space they do on warm nights. So how much space they need depends on the season, and I imagine on the temperament of the birds and how well they get along. 1 foot per bird is a good rule to play it safe. It also gives them maneuvering room when they want to switch positions. Mine are doing well with 7 feet for 8 chickens. It also helps that there's a second roost they can hop down on, walk across, and hop back up from if they want to change places without walking/jumping on top of others to get to the spot. Also helps that they get along pretty well and don't fight at bedtime.

Here they are at their most spread out:
1635258398144.png


And huddled together on a cold night:
1635258522868.png
 
K0k0shka said:
I have 3 different colors of Orpingtons. None are buff, but they are all English so they are large. I have 6 of them, plus 2 Barnevelders which are still LF but smaller than the Orps. I have two roosts but of course everybody wants to sleep on the top roost only. The top roost is 7 feet long. On warm nights they like to spread out, while on cold nights they huddle together and take up about 2/3 of the space they do on warm nights. So how much space they need depends on the season, and I imagine on the temperament of the birds and how well they get along. 1 foot per bird is a good rule to play it safe. It also gives them maneuvering room when they want to switch positions. Mine are doing well with 7 feet for 8 chickens. It also helps that there's a second roost they can hop down on, walk across, and hop back up from if they want to change places without walking/jumping on top of others to get to the spot. Also helps that they get along pretty well and don't fight at bedtime.

Here they are at their most spread out:
View attachment 2878640

And huddled together on a cold night:
View attachment 2878642
Click to expand...
Thank you so much! It helps a lot to see it visually. I am trying to figure out the roost size for my new coop. I will have 8 birds; 4 buff orps and 4 easter eggers. Do you think a 7 ft roost would be enough room for all of them?? They wouldn't have to jump up to the roost, they will have a ramp.
 
Last edited:
Farmlife16 said:
Thank you so much! It helps a lot to see it visually. I am trying to figure out the roost size for my new coop. I will have 8 birds; 4 buff orps and 4 easter eggers. Do you think a 7 ft roost would be enough room for all of them?? They wouldn't have to jump up to the roost, they will have a ramp.
Click to expand...
My setup happens to work right now, but I'd prefer more space if I could get it. I wasn't planning on 8 chickens, only 5, and started out with 5, but... things happened, and I ended up adding 3 more. I've maxed out the coop capacity and more than maxed out the top roost capacity. How big is your coop? I'd say if you are able to give them more than 7 feet, then give them more than 7 feet. You never know... you might end up adding more birds, or they may end up fighting for the best sleeping spots, or you may have a bully, etc. etc. It's good to plan for potential trouble scenarios and give yourself extra room if you can. Just make sure that all birds are able to roost at the same height. Vertical arrangement is strictly pecking order driven, and some might get bullied to the bottom or not allowed up, which can worsen the power dynamics. Vertical equality helps keep the peace :lol: It's good to have a "just in case" lower roost somewhere, for birds that are too young, too old, or injured, and unable to get to the top roost or stay there. Though a ramp may help with that.
 
K0k0shka said:
My setup happens to work right now, but I'd prefer more space if I could get it. I wasn't planning on 8 chickens, only 5, and started out with 5, but... things happened, and I ended up adding 3 more. I've maxed out the coop capacity and more than maxed out the top roost capacity. How big is your coop? I'd say if you are able to give them more than 7 feet, then give them more than 7 feet. You never know... you might end up adding more birds, or they may end up fighting for the best sleeping spots, or you may have a bully, etc. etc. It's good to plan for potential trouble scenarios and give yourself extra room if you can. Just make sure that all birds are able to roost at the same height. Vertical arrangement is strictly pecking order driven, and some might get bullied to the bottom or not allowed up, which can worsen the power dynamics. Vertical equality helps keep the peace :lol: It's good to have a "just in case" lower roost somewhere, for birds that are too young, too old, or injured, and unable to get to the top roost or stay there. Though a ramp may help with that.
Click to expand...
That makes sense! My coop is quite small right now, big enough for the chicks, but not big enough for when they are adults. I am calculating how much I need to expand it. They will be big before I know it!!
 
Farmlife16 said:
That makes sense! My coop is quite small right now, big enough for the chicks, but not big enough for when they are adults. I am calculating how much I need to expand it. They will be big before I know it!!
Click to expand...
Make it bigger than you think you'll need. Chicken math happens even to the best of us :lol:
 
Farmlife16 said:
That makes sense! My coop is quite small right now, big enough for the chicks, but not big enough for when they are adults. I am calculating how much I need to expand it. They will be big before I know it!!
Click to expand...

For each adult, standard-sized hen you need:
  • 4 square feet in the coop (.37 square meters)
  • 10 square feet in the run (.93 square meters),
  • 1 linear foot of roost (.3 meters),
  • 1/4 of a nest box,
  • And 1 square foot (.09) of permanent, 24/7/365 ventilation, preferably located over the birds' heads when they're sitting on the roost.
4 hens
  • 16 square feet in the coop. 4'x4' is the only really practical build for this given the common dimensions of lumber.
  • 4 feet of roost
  • 40 square feet in the run. 4'x10' or 5'x8'. 6'x6' is a bit too small, 6'x8' is more generous and easier to build than 5'x8'.
  • 4 square feet of ventilation. A 2'x2' window is theoretically enough, but in practice doesn't create any air FLOW so better to spread the venting around (and even better to exceed the minimums, especially in warm climates).
  • 2 nest boxes, to give the hens a choice
My Little Monitor Coop is designed to meet all the minimums for a flock of 4: https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/the-little-monitor-coop.76275/

Good luck.
 
3KillerBs said:
For each adult, standard-sized hen you need:
  • 4 square feet in the coop (.37 square meters)
  • 10 square feet in the run (.93 square meters),
  • 1 linear foot of roost (.3 meters),
  • 1/4 of a nest box,
  • And 1 square foot (.09) of permanent, 24/7/365 ventilation, preferably located over the birds' heads when they're sitting on the roost.
4 hens
  • 16 square feet in the coop. 4'x4' is the only really practical build for this given the common dimensions of lumber.
  • 4 feet of roost
  • 40 square feet in the run. 4'x10' or 5'x8'. 6'x6' is a bit too small, 6'x8' is more generous and easier to build than 5'x8'.
  • 4 square feet of ventilation. A 2'x2' window is theoretically enough, but in practice doesn't create any air FLOW so better to spread the venting around (and even better to exceed the minimums, especially in warm climates).
  • 2 nest boxes, to give the hens a choice
My Little Monitor Coop is designed to meet all the minimums for a flock of 4: https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/the-little-monitor-coop.76275/

Good luck.
Click to expand...
Thank you!!
 

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