Integrating 2 bantam w 6 LF

[coopncottage]

Hi everyone -
I’ve got three cream legbars, a blue copper maran, two coro Sussex and an old (8 years) auntie bantam SL wyandotte. We lost four hens in a dog attack at the end of November, and have an 8x8 coop with a 10x20 run.

I’m thinking about adding in two buff Brahma bantams (18 mos old).

Temp here in Colo has been unseasonably mild - during the day, 40s; teens at night. We don’t use a heat lamp.

I’ve never integrated hens in the winter, and wondering if I should quarantine the two new girls inside 30 days, then start introducing them... which makes me worry they won’t be acclimated to the cold because of a month inside. But if they are quarantined outside, will two of them keep warm enough if we have them in a crate in an unheated shop? I’m not sure how to quarantine/integrate just two. Temps could drop a lot here over the next couple months. Open to ideas, suggestions!

 

[ChickNanny13]

It's recommended to quarantine new birds from your flock for at least 2wks, some say a month (makes more sense) and a good distance from your flock. Washing hands & clothes/shoes too as pathogens travel with us & air.
I've read where some do have a mixed flock of LF & bantams but also read that Silkies have a "soft" spot on the top of their heads, if pecked can cause neurological problems. You could try integrate (See but no touch method) after quarantine, and make sure there are alot of hiding places for the Silkies to run & hide need be.

 

[coopncottage]

It's recommended to quarantine new birds from your flock for at least 2wks, some say a month (makes more sense) and a good distance from your flock. Washing hands & clothes/shoes too as pathogens travel with us & air.
I've read where some do have a mixed flock of LF & bantams but also read that Silkies have a "soft" spot on the top of their heads, if pecked can cause neurological problems. You could try integrate (See but no touch method) after quarantine, and make sure there are alot of hiding places for the Silkies to run & hide need be.

Yes, as I posted I plan to quarantine—but they aren’t silkies... they are Bantam Brahmas. My main concern is the temperature issues during/after quarantine.

 

[oldhenlikesdogs]

Quarantine only will show you if the new birds are actively sick. Even with quarantine you can introduce diseases to your flock and your flock can infect the new birds. A true quarantine requires you to add a sacrificial bird to the new ones or next to them to see if it gets sick before adding them to your flock. Most people skip that step.

I would not put them in the house if possible as than you will need to re-acclimate them to your outdoor temperatures.

Can you build a temporary pen somewhere? In a garage? Or shed? I routinely keep birds separately and they do fine. A healthy bird keeps itself warm.

You will than need to make a pen inside your coop to start the integration by letting everyone see the new birds for a few weeks before starting supervised mingling.

 

[ChickNanny13]

Yes, as I posted I plan to quarantine—but they aren’t silkies... they are Bantam Brahmas. My main concern is the temperature issues during/after quarantine.

My apologizes ReRead your original post, no clue where I got Silkie from
2x oldhenlikesdogs

 

[aart]

I’ve got three cream legbars, a blue copper maran, two coro Sussex and an old (8 years) auntie bantam SL wyandotte. We lost four hens in a dog attack at the end of November, and have an 8x8 coop with a 10x20 run.

I’m thinking about adding in two buff Brahma bantams (18 mos old).

I'd say your at your limit with 7 birds in coop...
....unless your run is totally weather and predator proof.
Integration works best with extra space.

I'd quarantine in shop rather than house.
Integrating in winter could would indeed create extra stress.



Consider biological/medical quarantine:
BYC Medical Quarantine Article

Integration Basics:
It's all about territory and resources(space/food/water).
Existing birds will almost always attack new ones to defend their resources.
Understanding chicken behaviors is essential to integrating new birds into your flock.

Confine new birds within sight but physically segregated from older/existing birds for several weeks, so they can see and get used to each other but not physically interact.

In adjacent runs, spread scratch grains along the dividing mesh, best if mesh is just big enough for birds to stick their head thru, so they get used to eating together.

The more space, the better. Birds will peck to establish dominance, the pecked bird needs space to get away. As long as there's no copious blood drawn and/or new bird is not trapped/pinned down and beaten unmercilessly, let them work it out. Every time you interfere or remove new birds, they'll have to start the pecking order thing all over again.

Multiple feed/water stations. Dominance issues are most often carried out over sustenance, more stations lessens the frequency of that issue.

Places for the new birds to hide 'out of line of sight'(but not a dead end trap) and/or up and away from any bully birds. Roosts, pallets or boards leaned up against walls or up on concrete blocks, old chairs tables, branches, logs, stumps out in the run can really help. Lots of diversion and places to 'hide' instead of bare wide open run.