Integrating New Pullets

[BonnieBlue]

Now that I have my two girls moved to their new coop, it is time to start putting things together to add a couple of pullets.

I have a 16'x60' run and in one corner I am going to put my old coop (4'x4') with a 4'x8' run attached to it. I will use this to keep two new girls (approx 6 months) separated from the two I have now (two years old).

How long do I need to keep the two pairs separated if they have the run fence to keep them away from each other, but close enough to get to see and somewhat know each other? I am going on the premise that was in an article (I am sorry to the author, I don't remember who wrote it) that discussed integrating chicks into a new flock. They did something like this, but letting the chicks go back to their own little coop at night, even after the gate was opened, allowing the youngsters to interact with the existing flock.

Other questions are in regards to health. I am going to get the two pullets from a friend, who I know treats her flock as babies, and takes good care of them health wise. She is the one I rehomed two 6 month old pullets to, and those two girls are thriving. But I do have a few concerns, primarily because my two have always been coop and run hens, and hers are free ranged. I plan on doing an elector psp dip on them before they are even brought onto the premises to their new temporary coop. I have a place I can stop to do a dip, then bring them on home. Do I need to also worm them as a precaution? Are there any other treatments they should receive while they are in a two week (or whatever is recommended) separation run?

Adviced on anything I can do to make the transition easier and safer for everyone is welcomed. My two girls now will just be coming off of the stress from a move, so I want to be cautious about everything.

 

[BlindLemonChicken]

Your integration plan sounds good as far as the coop setup. I would do that for roughly two weeks-it really depends on how they act. If they aren’t concerned with each other two weeks should be plenty. If they are aggressive or overly interested then go longer.

As far as the health stuff goes worming, etc isn’t going to be a good first-line defense. What you need really is to keep the new birds somewhere as far from possible as your old birds-somewhere they can’t share air-for about a month. Stress can cause dormant issues to surface so if your new chickens have any respiratory viruses that aren’t obvious but flare up due to the stress of the move you will be able to see it before you put them with your old hens. I adopted two chickens once who had a respiratory virus that would flare up whenever they were stressed. I didn’t realize it when I got them and fortunately I kept them separated but it only showed up after their second day with me. And then they were very obviously ill. I can’t remember what it was specifically because the vet didn’t say but none of my other chickens ever got it so I was very lucky in that respect. You will get more detailed advice from someone with more chicken disease expertise. I only have my personal experience to go on and what I have read here are proper biosecurity measures.

 

[BonnieBlue]

YouWhat you need really is to keep the new birds somewhere as far from possible as your old birds-somewhere they can’t share air-for about a month. Stress can cause dormant issues to surface so if your new chickens have any respiratory viruses that aren’t obvious but flare up due to the stress of the move you will be able to see it before you put them with your old hens.

It sounds like I need to do a secondary fence perimeter so they can't get beak to beak through one fence. I need to give thought to how to do that.

 

[BlindLemonChicken]

A fence isn’t necessarily going to cut it because they will still be able to share soil. Do you have a part of the yard farther away from your chickens? Or a garage you can keep them in for a couple weeks? I am actually very lax about biosecurity so I’m not a good one for giving advice on it lol. Let me tag someone who I know is more conscientious than I am @nuthatched

 

[Mrs. K]

If you have visited your friend and your friend has visited you, I imagine that you have been to look at her chickens and vice versa. If they are not hours and hours apart, where as you have a big trip after getting the birds, and they are healthy in her flock, and she does not show birds or attend auctions or takes in rescues I would not worry about it.

So if she has just kept her birds home, and raised them like you do, and in a quick trip, you can pop them into your set up, I am pretty sure they would be fine.

Do look them over, when you pick them up, do not take anything you are sorry for, and it should work pretty well.

Do look up https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/a-cluttered-run.1323792/page-6#post-25037140. As a lot of clutter helps.

I am not saying that doing a complete quarantine is a bad thing, it is not, but most backyard set ups cannot do it properly, and if you don't do it properly, you may as well not do it at all. It requires changing clothes and shoes, between taking care of birds, having different feed stored in different places, and separating birds by a large distance.

Mrs K

 

[Ridgerunner]

Let's talk quarantine first. Diseases and parasites can be spread by them eating or drinking from shared containers, pecking at the ground with them living together, by insects like mosquitoes or grasshoppers, or just blowing on the wind. A little separation will give them some protection against some things, it's better than nothing. Some diseases or parasites are more of an aggravation than a serious danger but some can wipe you out.

Chickens can develop flock immunities against certain things. They may have it and can spread it but they are not affected themselves. They developed immunity when they were previously exposed, often as chicks. Coccidiosis is a great example of this but there are others. You can quarantine them as long as you want and never see it. It is possible the stress of them moving will bring it out but it is also very possible it will not. It is possible your flock has developed flock immunities and will give it to newcomers. You just don't know.

You have two and you are bringing in two. If you had a larger flock I'd suggest exposing an expendable chicken to the newcomers during quarantine to see if any get sick but with only two in both groups I don't think it is worth it.

It is your call but I'd consider housing them separate long enough to treat them for worms and mites and lice and then start integration.

Are the two new ones laying? At that age, it is not about age, it is about whether they are laying. If they are not laying my pullets are treated as second class citizens. They form a separate flock and avoid the older hens day and night. If they invade the private space of the older hens they are liable to get pecked or attacked. Your 16x60 area is huge for 4 chickens. They should have plenty of room to avoid the adults during the day. Your old coop could give them a good place to spend the night until they are ready to roost together.

If your new ones are laying they are more ready to join the pecking order. That may go really smoothly or it may involve some fighting. The big difference in whether they are laying or not is that the ones laying are more likely to fight back, the others are more likely to run away.

Even if your two new ones are not laying they could be soon. That causes me heartburn. I would not want to teach them to lay somewhere that is not my nests. If they were younger I'd suggest that you do the see-but-don't-touch for a week or two. But you have that huge space. I'd just turn them loose in that area when you get them and observe. Have that small coop ready in case it is needed. If you need to, separate them and do the see-but-don't-touch. But if it is not that bad give them a chance to work it out.

If you had a small area like many people on this forum I would not consider this but I think that 16x60 area gives you a decent chance for this to work.

 

[BonnieBlue]

Thank you all for the info. I am as careful as possible to prevent disease and keep my girls healthy. My friend is about 5 hours away.

I talked with my partner, and his strong opinion, that I have to agree with, is I just go through the winter without eggs instead of taking a risk, given all I did with this new coop to keep my girls healthy. For instance, I went through three cases of caulk inside making sure everything was as sealed as possible to lower chances of mite infestations.

I am going to just get a couple of chicks, and make the time to raise them, since I am setting up an area for youngsters and existing to get to know each other. I also don't want that area contaminated, as I plan to use it yearly for chicks, and cleaning and disinfecting can only go so far. With chicks, I will know the conditions from day 2. At least that will get me new layers starting in January. Question regarding chicks that start laying in January. Will they then not molt fall/winter 2026? I assume they will be first year layers? If that is correct, I may get more, and combine what I was going to start this year with what I was going to start next spring. I am 2 months behind of moving and didn't get any started in July.

I really appreciate such good answers and detailed info. Despite changing course, I have learned a lot. Which is one reason I love this forum!

 

[BlindLemonChicken]

Sorry if I freaked you out! I know lots of people are more careful than I am and it’s better to have all the information before making a decision