Large Movable Chicken Tractor Design

Papaw-John

Songster
Apr 16, 2018
60
84
126
Buna, Texas
A-Frame Chicken Tractor.jpg

I ordered 100 Fry Pan Mixed Rooster Chicks for 34 bucks & 10 bucks shipping!
https://www.meyerhatchery.com/productinfo.a5w?prodID=FPBM

They will be here in 4 weeks. I was planning to just wire off a section in my barn, but decided against it. Too much poop building up for too long!
I am afraid of predators getting them, so I am going to make a large movable coop completely closed in with OSB & 2" x 4" welded wire fencing.
I will be able to pick it up from the top (I will add a lift strap) with forks on my tractor.

Dimensions:
16' Long x 8' Wide x 7'-3"
Materials:
3 - 2"x 4"x 16' treated
15 - 2"x 4"x 8' treated
6 - Sheets OSB (8 sheets if I close in full top)
Wire Enclosing:
Bottom and ends will be closed with 48"x 2"x 4" welded wire fencing
Cost:
Lumber $210 plus tax
Welded wire fencing $49 plus tax
(It always ends up costing more)

Not shown, but there will be a door in one end.
I thought about making it 24' long, but that will be a lot bigger to move, but it should not be a problem.
Both ends will be open for air flow.
I will add water nipples down one side head high and use large hanging feeders down the middle.

How often should I move it? I do not want to completely kill out the grass, but it would be nice to add a little nitrogen.
I do have a concern that I could harm the chicken's legs when I set it down. I may have to set the corners on blocks, then carefully remove blocks and lower with a leaver. I will have to make sure no chicken legs are hanging down.

What am I not thinking of?
 
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I would not put those birds on welded wire. Better to let them have access to the ground, and run a skirt around it.
I was not very clear. The welded wire fencing will be attached to the bottom, so they will be walking on the ground basically. I am afraid to have the bottom open to bare earth, because I do not want a predator to dig in. I lost whole flocks on two different occasions. So, now my coops are completely closed by wood or wire.

I calculated the weight of the OSB and treated 2x4's.
It will weigh about 800 lbs. The weight is not an issue for my tractor at all. The weight will help keep it from getting air born (but I still feel it needs anchors.) I may change the design, we shall see. I want it to be tall enough for me to walk in and to allow the heat to rise. That is why I am using OSB even though it is heavy. If I were to use corrugated metal it would be lighter, but our hot Summer sun would cook & kill my chickens (even if the heat did not kill they, it would be torture!) There is some insulation value to the OSB and it does not radiate heat like metal does. I will check out Joel Salatin's youtube videos, thanks. I am not really wanting a typical chicken tractor, but more of a coop that I can move with my tractor to help keep them from building up too much poop in one location. They will be able to free (actually captive) range on fresh grass and bugs every time I move them. I am concerned about catching wind and lifting it up or rolling it. That is my main concern. I just put a new roof on my main coop that a winter storm took off!
:eek:
 
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I would agree split the group in two regardless you will need a spotter for legs to sit
down or possible lift it just enough run even tarp floor to move them not loosing them
 
Look at Joel Salatin's youtube videos. It might be more efficient for you to build two or three smaller ones. Just a thought.
That sure would be a whole lot simpler. I am not sure if it could keep a determined dog, fox or raccoon out. It may though.
Stanton Chicken Tractor.jpg

I have to keep changing the combination on my main coop so the raccoons don't figure it out. :lau
I would agree split the group in two regardless you will need a spotter for legs to sit
down or possible lift it just enough run even tarp floor to move them not loosing them
I could split them and try two different types?
 
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still feel like you want 2 coops 100 will decimate in minutes 50 would take longer
you will keep them till 4 or 5 months yes
 
still feel like you want 2 coops 100 will decimate in minutes 50 would take longer
you will keep them till 4 or 5 months yes
I am thinking it will take 4 to 5 months. Your right 100 chickens can make a mess fast.
I may have to pick the coop up and move it, then just keep the tractor with the forks on it so I can move it in one or two days. If I moved it every other day that would be 75 moves!
:eek:
Hummmm.... I may have to rethink this a bit?
 
How often to move? Since it depends on the number/type of chickens, the square feed they are enclosed in, how much supplementary food vs. forage they will get and to some extent the field conditions, no one can say. You will need to observe and experiment. My three chicken small tractor works well when moving every two days. Your mileage will vary.

For me, that setup works exceptionally well. The grass/clover/misc is chopped down, but not decimated. Except in the dryest of conditions, you can't tell that the tractor was there two weeks later and those spots are actually somewhat lusher/greener than the surrounding plants.

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I'm very concerned about your harming your chickens during moves. I'd be shocked if none wig out when you lift their entire home during each move and they won't have a good base to land on while the tractor is in the air. Joel Salatin's setup has the advantage that the chickens can walk on the ground and don't have to worry about tripping over wire fence flooring.

In my case, I only move my tractor after letting out my girls as my tractor is heavy and moves jerkily. I do not have any form of ground protection. It is a weakness, but I have yet to see a tractor design where it makes sense. I'm confident in the hardware cloth sides and the fact that they get locked into the coop area each night.
 
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