Haunted55, i got my mallards back begining of april there about 2 months old. Trying to learn what i can before hand. This is the incubater i orderd
http://www.bradleycaldwell.com/ViewItem.aspx?id=338614&c=1383&vsid=1856020710 also gunna just do 1 set of eggs at a time. because i only have 5 ducks as of now. looking for calls.
https://www.backyardchickens.com/t/491013/goose-incubation-hatching-guide-completed
First off, read the above link and then save it so you can find it at a moments notice, lol! This guide is unbelievable and the info in it pertains to just about anything you want to hatch so don't let the name fool you.
You have a bit to go for your own, they may or may not lay this year. Mine did their first year but I guess not all do. Things I've learned, don't use the first hatched eggs. Give the ducks a bit of time to get everything working good. A couple of weeks is ideal. You can try before this, but you may not like the results. Some aren't as strong as they could be and you could end up with ducks that are smaller than their parents. Feed the mating ducks the best feed you can get!!! This is so often overlooked! Just remember this....garbage in...garbage out. I usually use either Flock Raiser by Purina or Blue Seal Multi-Flock Starter/Grower. Real good luck with this one and it has a higher niacin level than the Purina FR. Don't forget the layer feed when they start laying. You can offer crushed oyster shell before hand, but you need to mix the layer in when they start having eggs. Not knowing the male, female ratio you have, I can't comment on how many eggs you'll get during a 7 day period, but collect the eggs and store them in a cool place, not refrigerated, in an egg carton is best. Keep one end of the carton up about an inch so that the eggs aren't sitting level and switch the end raised each day....gently. When you have enough eggs to put into the 'bator, make sure that they are fairly clean. You don't have to wash them but take any bits of poop or what ever off of them. I've done both things, washed and unwashed. Me, I like the idea of a clean egg going into the incubator because the enviroment is just right for all kinds of nasties to grow. No problems either way, it's just me.
With the 'bator you have, you will want to start it up a week before you are ready to set your eggs. This will give you the oppurtunity to get the temp right, 100 degrees in a fan model, and the humidity as well. Never trust the built in thermometer on the incubator or the hygrometer either. Check and double check again. When it is keeping the temp fairly well, walk away and leave it alone. One of the biggest mistakes made by people is playing with the temperature of the incubator. I am just as guilty as anyone, but I have learned that unless there is a difference of 4 degrees or more, leave....it.....alone. The eggs can take a slight difference in temperature very well. Sometimes it may take a bit longer for hatch but better cooler than hotter. Humidity should be kept around 30%. When you add water, yes it is going to go up, but try and run the humidity at around 30%. This is going to help the birds get rid of the fluid and hatch better and cleaner when it's time. When they go into lockdown, the 25th day of incubation, this is when you want to increase the humidity level to 70%. This will ensure that they don't become 'stuck' in the egg. I took a page from someone else's book and use an Old Fashion drink glass half full of water in the incubator as well as fill all of the water channels on the bottom. Works like a charm. [ Wish I could remember who! They deserve the credit for it.] With the fan going in the incubator, I have found the humidity levels are harder to maintain and have started using just a still air for lockdown now. Better hatch rate.
I don't know if I am helping or insulting you, as I don't know how much you know already. Some things are a 'gut' feeling when you go into lockdown and are faced with a baby who is having a difficult time. I usually give them some time to finish on their own, but if the bells and whistles are going off in my head....I will step in and assist. Some will tell you not to, as the bird is probably weak and isn't supposed to live. Ah well....I have a few chickens and ducks running around here, quite happily, that were assisted and no one knows but me. Another thing to watch for...the duckling or chick or whatever, that just can't wait and comes too early. I have found the best thing to do is leave it alone and let it suck up the yolk sack. If there are others already hatched and the bird is in danger, you are better off moving the ones who are doing fine to the brooder. Just make sure the temps in it are going to keep them warm and happy. I usually wait 24hrs. before I move the hatchlings to the brooder, which I already have set up and the temperature regulated, before the hatch date. This way you are ready for anything, lol. You want the brooder temp the same as the incubator. If you are using plastic totes for the brooders, you don't always need the 250 watt heat lamps to obtain the desired temp.. Sometimes I use a 100 watt bulb, sometimes a 75 watt. It completely depends on the temp of my house and what I need to maintain the proper temps in the brooder. Use your eyes as well, if they are huddling under the light, chances are they're too cold and you need to use something else to get the temps up. If they are avoiding the light, it's too hot and you'll need to go down in wattage. The best time to observe them is first thing in the morning. One caution...be very careful of the bulbs you use for the brooder. Use the old fashioned light bulbs for brooding. None of the fluorescent or halogen that are made to look like the old bulbs are safe to use. The compact fluorescent gives off gasses that cause cancer and the halogen can give off gases as well as steal vitamins from their bodies. Research this for yourself, I can't find my links but it's something each of us should read about and make our own decisions. I personally will not use them in the brooders or my home.