Sometimes age is not the issue, its how fast they grow and whether they are layers, breeders, or broilers. The higher to protein of the feed usually suggest rapid growth . But the breed is what makes the difference entirely. A slow grower slow maturing grower will require a higher protein feed longer than a faster growing bird. This is the ratio I use.
1-9 weeks old 20 %
10-16 weeks old 16%
11- 18 weeks old 15%
Coop 1. I currently have 29 (6 GLW, 6 EE. 3 BJB, 7 CCM, 3 GF, 1 mutt, 3 BLW) in one coop most 24 are 20 week olds, with a few guinea that are 23 weeks, and 3 BLW that are 18 weeks. I have raised them all together starting them on 20% Chick starter until the youngest reached 10 weeks, then switched them to a grower at 16% until the youngest trio reached 17 weeks. then when the youngest reached 20 weeks I switched them to lay crumbles. All have done well and I do not see any with stunted growth or signs of too much protein in their diet.
Keeping in mind, that none of mine in Coop 1 should start laying before they are 6 months. I am taking a chance with the Wyandotte's as they have been known to start laying at 24 weeks. If they start laying, they will be moved into a separate coop to be feed lay pellet.
I did put a wooden oak pallet in the coop that the smaller birds learned quickly to use as shelter, my plan worked out great. Before the pecking order was fully written in stone, my smallest ones could run under the pallet to get away from the lager ones. As well as the 3 guinea's two of which will soon be attending a Guinea Gumbo in the next month.
Coop 2. I have about 40 young birds ranging from 9 weeks to 16 weeks. Orpingtons, Marans, Cochin Bantams, Here they are all still on Chick starter at 20% This week I will convert them to chick grower. There is a wide range of ages in this coop, but again none should start laying before 6 months. I am concerned here with the Orpingtons...Agan if they strart laying early I will have to move them to feed them lay pellet so my others are not deprived. But there are only 1 Maran Rooster that is 20 weeks, 2 orpingtons that are 16 weeks, 2 orpingtons that are 12 weeks, 6 Orpingtons that are 9 weeks, 10 Wheaten Maran that are 11 weeks, 20 Cochin Bantams that are 11 weeks
I gage their feed by breed, not age....if you have any major concerns provide a seperat feeder of grit, and shell...or a flock block, even powder soluble supplements for one week once a month may even help.
Check your breed growth rates, POL ect. You may be fine feeding them all the same feed...
Coop 5 - The exception, I wanted to raise cornish game which I have never owned, and have not arrived yet. I am crossing into unknown territory. It was recommended to me by someone who raises Cornish that they should receive 20% until they reach 6 months. I have some on the way I believe to be a hybrid Cornish-chancler / orpington / cornish cross, when they hatch I will feed them the same diet of 20% for 6 months. I am still studying the growth of the Cornish, so we will see if it is a mistake or a good move on my point.
Just watch for feed deficiencies, I have had one in a 9 week old Orpington where there should not be one, he is still on Chick Starter but he is not absorbing enough nutrients from his feed. He is now caged separately and is on Water Soluble Electrolytes, free feed chick starter, free feed grit, and free feed crushed shell (Callcium) as well as a daily dose of Nutri Drench by oral administration at .3 ml 1 x a day...Its not fun feeding a chick by syringe..... He is the anomaly in the group....he has rickets and honestly he should not......
Just remember, check out your breed types, growth rate, and point of lay, this should help with deciding what to feed.
Good luck...
