Mobile coop year round

[Corbin_Dallas]

Does anyone have experience running mobile hoop houses year round? It seems most people park them for the winter but I've not found a compelling reason to do so in my case.

• I'm in central Ohio so no extended deep freezes
• I have cold hardy breeds so I shouldn't need any type of external heaters
• I have a snow worthy and draft free hoop house / green house style build
• I have a Kubota to do the heavy pulling and snow clearing

Given the above and that my pasture stays pretty green year round (helped by over seeding in fall), I was planning on essentially no change in operations.


Thoughts?

 

[WIchickMama]

If you can do it, I say go for it. With the feet of snow we get here, it would take a lot of gas and snow blowing/plowing to be able to move a tractor and even if we could move it, there would be no grass for the birds

 

[3KillerBs]

If you've got the conditions and the equipment then there's no reason not to move them -- though you'd need to consider the timing carefully to let them eat down the greenery without destroying the roots since there will be no regrowth until spring.

 

[aart]

I have cold hardy breeds so I shouldn't need any type of external heaters

Heating the coop would be unnecessary in your climate anyway.
But....you may need/want to heat the waterer.

Guessing it would get old dealing with snow and moving tractors pretty quick.

 

[Corbin_Dallas]

Thank you for replies.

The biggest issues I've been able to brainstorm is

• wet ground = wet feet and potential frostbite overnight
• wind driven snow entering the stock ventilation windows

Are elevated roosting bars enough or will they need a snuggle boxes /rug? Any behavior I should watch for that indicates too cold?

The surrounding farm land means we get some pretty high sustained winds (typically west / NW) so I keep the man door facing east. This keeps the wind loading on the long axis and facilitates closing the top to keep wind driven rain coming while leaving the leeward side open. The solution may be as simple as foregoing the stock zipper vents and installing some baffled roof vents at the top of the gables.

Regarding the greens, the enclosure is 10x20 and I've got 2ish acres to play with. After eleven weeks of moving daily and they have yet to complete a 'lap' of the pasture. On this schedule, aside from the occasional bare dirt spots some of the hens have been digging to cool off, the grass looks completely normal after 4 or 5 days. This is likely aided by my practice of using a rake to stand the grass back up/break up the poo after each move. Early last month I was forced to leave the tractor stationary for 3 days - they did not pick it bare but it was definitely down trodden and sparse. It took three weeks for the foliage to recover, though thanks to the dense 'fertilization' its now the greenest patch in the field.

Regarding the water, I'm hoping the solar gain from the tarp plus 15-20 fluffy chickens will be enough enclosed heat to prevent freezing most nights. If not I guess potential backup plans are lots of toting fresh water, a 12v heat tape/block heater or spending a small fortune on extension cords for standard 110v heating solutions.

Regarding snow - I agree if I was any further north, let alone WI, moving the enclosure would time and cost prohibitive; however, we really don't see inches upon inches of sustained accumulation. Plus I figure If I'm already bundled up and on the tractor clearing driveways for the elderly / less equipped neighbors, whats two more passes to clear the way for a weeks worth coop moves? Between the FEL bucket and 3 point mounted snow blade I've been able to clear some nice grass paths for my neighbor that uses an electric golf cart for the twice daily commute to his barn.

 

[3KillerBs]

Regarding the water, I'm hoping the solar gain from the tarp plus 15-20 fluffy chickens will be enough enclosed heat to prevent freezing most nights.

If it's possible for heat to build up from the chickens' bodies then you don't have enough ventilation to remove the moisture and the ammonia that they generate.

Chickens tolerate dry cold very well -- down to 0F and below when acclimated.

But wet cold promote frostbite and, if it's bad enough to condensate on the roof and drip onto them so that their feathers get damp, they can get seriously chilled.

Between the FEL bucket and 3 point mounted snow blade I've been able to clear some nice grass paths for my neighbor that uses an electric golf cart for the twice daily commute to his barn.

Having the right equipment makes ALL the difference.

 

[Corbin_Dallas]

If it's possible for heat to build up from the chickens' bodies then you don't have enough ventilation to remove the moisture and the ammonia that they generate.

Chickens tolerate dry cold very well -- down to 0F and below when acclimated.

But wet cold promote frostbite and, if it's bad enough to condensate on the roof and drip onto them so that their feathers get damp, they can get seriously chilled.

Got it thanks!

 

[3KillerBs]

Got it thanks!

Here is my article on coop ventilation: https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/repecka-illustrates-coop-ventilation.77659/