Narragansett turkey poults first run

Little_misfit_homestead

In the Brooder
May 28, 2025
5
15
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Bought 6 Narragansett poults and managed to keep 2 alive that are now 3 weeks old. Feathers are coming in and I noticed that one is very light in color. It is definitely a Narragansett as the woman I purchased from has a small farm and is very aware. But why is it so light? Also why, why is it so hard to raise poults? Goodness I've spent restless night getting this right.
 

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Bought 6 Narragansett poults and managed to keep 2 alive that are now 3 weeks old. Feathers are coming in and I noticed that one is very light in color. It is definitely a Narragansett as the woman I purchased from has a small farm and is very aware. But why is it so light? Also why, why is it so hard to raise poults? Goodness I've spent restless night getting this right.
pxl_20250528_141341336-jpg.4134535
Sorry, that is not a Narragansett no matter what they told you.

I have no problem raising poults. How did you try to raise these?
 
Sorry, that is not a Narragansett no matter what they told you.

I have no problem raising poults. How did you try to raise these?
I have gotten them to three weeks now they are eating medicated feed that has a high protein and regular water. I have just added grit to a side tray. At this point they seem fine but I started with 6. It seemed like every struggle meant death. We lost 4 in the first 3weeks.
 
Are you keeping them warm?
Are you keeping them outside? What is their brooder situation?
What is their feed?
We need more information as to why they are dying.
They have a thermometer that I have watched like a hawk. Now that we are at week 3 they are at 80 degrees. They are inside in a "turkey tent" they are on a high protein Turkey feed obtained from our local feed store ( not tractor supply ) as far as I can tell I'm FINALLY in the clear. Now I'm more concerned I may not have the Narragansett I was after.
 
I have gotten them to three weeks now they are eating medicated feed that has a high protein and regular water. I have just added grit to a side tray. At this point they seem fine but I started with 6. It seemed like every struggle meant death. We lost 4 in the first 3weeks.
I do not recommend feeding medicated starter to poults. I am not aware of any proper high protein (28% to 30% protein) available other than a medicated starter that Purina sells specifically for a disease that quail can get.

Normal medicated starter feeds contain amprolium meant specifically to combat coccidiosis. Amprolium is a thiamine blocker which is one of the vitamins that poults need for proper development. If coccidiosis is not a problem, one should not feed this type of medicated starter.

You did not mention what your bedding is. Poults should not be on wood chips until they are at least 2 weeks old. They can eat the wood chips, become blocked up and die because they cannot digest them without appropriate sized grit in their system.

Many people use a brooder that is far too small for poults. The brooder should be big enough to have a warm zone and a cool zone.

I use a 4'x4' brooder with a temperature controlled GQF brooder heater. It is set to control the temperature at bedding level at 90°F for the first week. The waterer and feeder are set in the cool area. The waterer is filled and allowed to warm in the brooder before any poults are added.

I use sand for bedding because I live on a sand dune and the sand is free. Poults have different instincts than chicks. It is instinctive for them to peck at things on the ground. I sprinkle the high protein (30%) starter feed on the sand. The poults usually start eating within minutes of being placed in the brooder. It may take them several days to start eating from the feeder. Until I see them eating from the feeder, I continue to sprinkle feed on the sand.

If I lose one poult out of 100, it is because the poult had something wrong with it and would have been culled anyway.
 
Bought 6 Narragansett poults and managed to keep 2 alive that are now 3 weeks old. Feathers are coming in and I noticed that one is very light in color. It is definitely a Narragansett as the woman I purchased from has a small farm and is very aware. But why is it so light? Also why, why is it so hard to raise poults? Goodness I've spent restless night getting this right.
pxl_20250528_141341336-jpg.4134535
Golden Narragansett poults

Not saying it is a Golden Narragansett (bb nn Rr or bb n- Rr) but the poults are lighter than standard Narragansetts (bb nn RR or bb n- RR)..
 
I do not recommend feeding medicated starter to poults. I am not aware of any proper high protein (28% to 30% protein) available other than a medicated starter that Purina sells specifically for a disease that quail can get.

Normal medicated starter feeds contain amprolium meant specifically to combat coccidiosis. Amprolium is a thiamine blocker which is one of the vitamins that poults need for proper development. If coccidiosis is not a problem, one should not feed this type of medicated starter.

You did not mention what your bedding is. Poults should not be on wood chips until they are at least 2 weeks old. They can eat the wood chips, become blocked up and die because they cannot digest them without appropriate sized grit in their system.

Many people use a brooder that is far too small for poults. The brooder should be big enough to have a warm zone and a cool zone.

I use a 4'x4' brooder with a temperature controlled GQF brooder heater. It is set to control the temperature at bedding level at 90°F for the first week. The waterer and feeder are set in the cool area. The waterer is filled and allowed to warm in the brooder before any poults are added.

I use sand for bedding because I live on a sand dune and the sand is free. Poults have different instincts than chicks. It is instinctive for them to peck at things on the ground. I sprinkle the high protein (30%) starter feed on the sand. The poults usually start eating within minutes of being placed in the brooder. It may take them several days to start eating from the feeder. Until I see them eating from the feeder, I continue to sprinkle feed on the sand.

If I lose one poult out of 100, it is because the poult had something wrong with it and would have been culled anyway.
Thank you so much. I went into this with so little knowledge. I just want to get it right.
 
Non medicated game bird starter is good to use for poults.
This is not necessary, but if you ever raise any others you can add chicks as “turkey trainers.”
I put a few chicks in with my poults during the first week or so to “train” them how to eat and drink.
They cannot stay together long, but does help them learn.
 

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