Newby Questions

potocki99

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We are gearing up to have chickens this spring, and I have some questions, and I freely admit a few are dumb, but I would appreciate input :-)

First, we don't have a coop ready yet, and won't until we get our shed rebuilt - since we still have snow, that won't be until late April/May. So, we are going to have to wait to get them, but from one company I read on, a minimum order is 25 chicks, but I only want 6-8 tops - are there any companies out there that do this?

Second - do you have to have a rooster?

Third - I know this is a basic sex ed thing, but I just don't understand it... how do you make sure the eggs you are gathering don't have anything but and egg in them? I would hate to crack one open and get a nasty surprise :-(

Coop size - I've heard anywhere from 1 1/2 sq. ft - 4 sq. foot per chicken? Any thoughts?

Last, (I think) can you raise chickens and ducks together?

Thank you so much for the input!
 
First, Welcome to BYC.
No question is dumb, however I think it's fair to say some may chuckle.

First-You can go to your local grain store and buy small quantities of chicks which saves you from a minimun and shipping charges which is very expensive.
Second - do you have to have a rooster? No

Third -They will most likely be fertile if you have a sexually mature roo, but you can eat them. You cannot tell their fertile except for a tiny bullseye on the yolk. Unless you have a broody hen who is sitting on the eggs and you leave it under her for an extended period of time, it will not develop. Collect daily.

Coop size - I've heard anywhere from 1 1/2 sq. ft - 4 sq. foot per chicken? Any thoughts? 4+ is best for the coop itself, 10+ for the run

Last, (I think) can you raise chickens and ducks together?Sure lots of people here do, but I am not speaking from my own experience.

Thank you so much for the input!
 
Welcome to BYC.
1.You will need a brooder before you receive chicks.
They will need warmth, 95Deg 1st week drop 5 deg each week.

Food, chick starter feed, with or without medication, I chose to go with.

Water, lots of water, get them to drink as soon as you put them in brooder, I dipped
each chicks beak in water when I put in brooder.

2. and 3.You only need rooster if you want fertile eggs. A hen without a rooster will lay eggs
but they will not be fertile, meaning no surprise when you crack nit open.
If you have a rooster, it may or may not be fertile.

4. For standard size breeds 4sq ft per bird is best, bantams 2 sq ft.

5. Yes you can raise ducks and chicks together.
Hope I have been some help.
Be sure to use search function also, tons of good info on this site, and
everyone is nice and ready to help.
Dennis
 
Sorry I forgot 1.
Meyer has a 3 chick min. and I know some of the other places have less than a 25 min.
I used Meyer and am very pleased with them.
Also tractor supply has 6 min, and a lot of feed stores have them also.
 
Well, as long as I can bring a smile to someone's face, LOL!

Fantastic input, thank you so much! My brother did chickens (and tons of them) when we were growing up for 4H. My goal is the eggs, and meat if we absolutely have to, but I'm not keen on that idea only because I can still smell that, that... smell, when I think about it from my youth. Bleck!

Has anyone figured the cost on a weekly basis - I mean, after the coop and setup. I'm just curious about what it would run. I'm not doing this for the economics, I want to do this because I want to be in control of my family's food source, and in the event of emergency, etc.
 
Welcome to BackYard Chickens! No questions are dumb as we all have started from the beginning when learning how to raise chickens. We have learned a lot in a year and a half of chicken and chick raising. I don't know of an exact measurement per chicken when building your coop. I would make sure they had enough room in there to move around well. (especially if they don't get to free range.)A place for nesting boxes when they get old enough to lay, and just make sure it is predator proof. When starting out with chickens we found dug out areas around our pen where something was trying to dig in there. My husband stapled wire around the bottom and nailed it to the ground. Now, when something digs it can't get anywhere b/c it can't dig through the chicken wire. You can order chicks through Mcmurray hatchery and you can order as many or as little as you want. If you order pullets then you get all feamles. They are a few cents higher but if you order straight run then you can end up with some roosters. You can check with some other hatcheries like Cackle hatchery, Ideal Poultry, Strombergs, Meyer Hatchery. Feed and seed stores and Tractor Supply have chicks for sale right now. I would not order any less than 6. New chicks need warmth and depend on each others body heat to stay warm in those boxes until you can get them home. Shipment process is stressful for them and it could even be a possibility that you lose a couple. We keep our new chicks in a large plastic stoarge tub with a brooder lamp and a 100watt light bulb. We have found that the 250 watt heat lamp bulbs are just too hot unless you have them hanging really high. It needs to be 95 deg. for the first week of life and then you can decrease it by 5 deg. increments each week until they are ready to go outside. We put pine shavings in our box as bedding ( they poop a lot and this keeps it cleaner in there.) Then all you need is Chick starter food and a waterer. They have a Chick starter kit with everything in it right now at Tractor Supply for 19.99.


You do not have to have a Rooster unless you want fertilized eggs. Hens lay eggs without roosters. All roosters do is fertilize them if you want to hatch your own baby chicks. We hatch our own chicks so we have a couple of roosters. If you are not going to hatch your own chicks and only want eggs for eating then order pullets when ordering. Roosters to us are more trouble than they are worth. We have one that we like and recently had to give one away because he got aggressive with our kids. They can get horomonal and they are protective over their hens and some of our hens had started laying and he went crazy and tried to attack us when we went near them or the eggs. If it weren't for us incubating our own chicks then I wouldn't have a Rooster.

What do you mean by a nasty surprise in the egg? Do you mean a developing chick? If so then you won't have to worry about that unless you have a rooster mating with your hens. Even so, a hen has to go broody ( meaning she is ready to be a mom and saves eggs in her nesting box to lay on) She has to sit on the eggs for 21 days until the chicks are ready to hatch. If you gather your eggs fresh everyday then you won't have anything nasty in there, just fresh egg yolk and whites. My 10 year old son was the one that wanted chickens when we decided to get them I was hesitant about eating the eggs but they are so fresh and better than anything store bought. If you crack open a store bought egg and one of your fresh ones then you can see how much better your own eggs look and tastes.

As far as raising chicks and ducks together, I'm not sure but hopefully someone else can answer that for you. Good luck with your chicks! If you ever have any questions feel free to message me. If you go on some of the hatcheries web sites, you can request free catalogs. They have colorful pictures of all their breeds and descriptions about them. It is useful when deciding what breeds of chickens you want. We started out with Buff orpingtons ( good egg layers and very friendly) We now have 3 buff orpingtons, 3 rhode island reds ( also a good egg layer), 5 white leghorns, 6 old english bantams ( these are small chickens and our kids just like to play with them) We also have 29 buff orpington chicks and 3 rhode island red chicks.
 

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