Older girl hurt new girl

[Pandamom4ever]

We have been slowly introducing our 4 new chicks (10 weeks old) to our older girls (10 months old). They have been side by side for over a week and in contact with ea ch other for 2 days. We had the normal territorial stuff and the older girls wouldn't let the babies eat and drink until they were done. No major pecking or fighting. Tonight we can home to one of our babies bleeding and no feathers. We moved her inside and are treating her back.

The other three babies didn't seem to have any damage. The older girls are in their house for the night.

Does this mean we need to get rid of our babies? WI'll the be OK together or will the older ones keep hurting the new ones?

 

[chickendreams24]

How many older girls do you have and what is everyone's breed?

Are you sure you have enough space in the coop and run for the numbers you have? Overcrowding can cause stress which can lead to aggression.

The general guidelines are 4 square ft of coop space and 10 square feet of run space per bird.

Also I would definitely add at least one more feeder and waterer to your coop if you plan to leave them together.

It would appear that the chick's back is raw but no lasting damage separate that chick for sure. Treatment for shock or stress may be needed. For now you will have to hide that bare raw spot or they will continue to pick at it.

A chicken saddle or especially blue kote which can be purchased at your local tractor supply. Make sure you buy the blue kote and not the red kote. Chickens are attracted to the color red and once they taste blood they go a little crazy. Blue kote uses genetian violet and an antiseptic to care for wounds(I'm sure there could be more I'm forgetting). It will color the skin and feathers a deep purple/blue.

Beware blue kote stains and gets everywhere! I've treated a bird washed my hands and gone to bed only to wake up with it on my cheek or forehead as it doesn't completely come off your hands for a couple days. It may also stain your clothes. And any other surface you accidentally spray. You may also be able to find a dauber version.

**Do not get it in the eyes or nares(nostrils) and be sure to spray it in an open well ventilated area.

Your chick should heal and be fine but you may need to keep it entirely separate from all the other birds but within view or you could try separating the little ones again until the one heals.

As a side note submissive chicks may starve to death if older or more dominate birds don't let them eat so monitor for that closely. Hence multiple feeder and waterers.

When you're ready to try reintroduction you could make them a small area that is too small for the bigger birds to get through so the babies have a safe place to go. Ie the doorway is too small for the big birds.

Also depending on how many 10 month olds you have it is easier to introduce the same ammount or more younger birds to an existing flock beacube the older birds will be overwhelmed by the younger birds and any aggression tends to get spread around more. It doesn't always work but often helps. Of course not everyone can do that.

 

[aart]

I'd get the chicks back with her hatch mates as soon as possible,
or you'll have another integration on your hands.
The blukote might keep them from pecking the wound,
but I've found it can attract as much pecking attention as blood can.

Does this mean we need to get rid of our babies?

Welcome to BYC...sorry you are having troubles.
No, you don't have to get rid of the babies.
You just need to be more patient.
How big is your set up?
Dimensions and pics would really help here.

They have been side by side for over a week

A week is not very long, let them live like that for a few weeks.
Lots of space will really help.

Integration Basics:
It's all about territory and resources(space/food/water).
Existing birds will almost always attack new ones to defend their resources.
Understanding chicken behaviors is essential to integrating new birds into your flock.

Confine new birds within sight but physically segregated from older/existing birds for several weeks, so they can see and get used to each other but not physically interact.

In adjacent runs, spread scratch grains along the dividing mesh, best if mesh is just big enough for birds to stick their head thru, so they get used to eating together.

The more space, the better. Birds will peck to establish dominance, the pecked bird needs space to get away. As long as there's no copious blood drawn and/or new bird is not trapped/pinned down and beaten unmercilessly, let them work it out. Every time you interfere or remove new birds, they'll have to start the pecking order thing all over again.

Multiple feed/water stations. Dominance issues are most often carried out over sustenance, more stations lessens the frequency of that issue.

Places for the new birds to hide 'out of line of sight'(but not a dead end trap) and/or up and away from any bully birds. Roosts, pallets or boards leaned up against walls or up on concrete blocks, old chairs tables, branches, logs, stumps out in the run can really help. Lots of diversion and places to 'hide' instead of bare wide open run.

This used to be a better search, new format has reduced it's efficacy, but still:
Read up on integration..... BYC advanced search>titles only>integration
This is good place to start reading, BUT some info is outdated IMO:
http://www.backyardchickens.com/a/adding-to-your-flock