pea chick with ruffle feathers hugging the light source--HELP

[JRivrVue]

Hello

One of the oldest baby peas is standing under the light while the rest of its siblings are resting away from it. These chicks were hatched in an incubator one at a time as the eggs were gathered daily and placed in it to hatch. They have been doing extremely well until I moved the largest to a separate brooder. One died the second day they were moved. It didn't look good after the relocation. I could just tell it was off, body language was very subtle but something was not quite right.

My thought is that they need worming. In the past I have put wazine in drinking water for them. I read on a previous thread where using safequard in a syringe was the preferred method. I am not comfortable doing it this way. These birds are still small, like they started hatching the last of May.

Can anyone give me some guidance here? I am handling these babies and hope to have some real friendly adolescents for sale.

Thanks, Judy (new to the forum and may make a mess of posting, I apologize if I do in advance) home to many many chickens, Buffs, RR, Silkies, Silky crosses, Batams, Guineas, Goats (ND and Pygmys) and Bouviers and Westies and one big Kangal girl who looks after things at night. my location is NE MS

 

[casportpony]

Hello

One of the oldest baby peas is standing under the light while the rest of its siblings are resting away from it. These chicks were hatched in an incubator one at a time as the eggs were gathered daily and placed in it to hatch. They have been doing extremely well until I moved the largest to a separate brooder. One died the second day they were moved. It didn't look good after the relocation. I could just tell it was off, body language was very subtle but something was not quite right.

My thought is that they need worming. In the past I have put wazine in drinking water for them. I read on a previous thread where using safeguard in a syringe was the preferred method. I am not comfortable doing it this way. These birds are still small, like they started hatching the last of May.

Can anyone give me some guidance here? I am handling these babies and hope to have some real friendly adolescents for sale.

Thanks, Judy (new to the forum and may make a mess of posting, I apologize if I do in advance) home to many many chickens, Buffs, RR, Silkies, Silky crosses, Batams, Guineas, Goats (ND and Pygmys) and Bouviers and Westies and one big Kangal girl who looks after things at night. my location is NE MS

Why aren't you comfortable doing it like this? Fenbendazole is very safe and they get a very small amount due to their size. They are definitely large enough to get a 1ml syringe past their trachea. Of course they wouldn't get 1ml, they would probably get less than 0.1ml, but you will need to weigh them to be sure.

-Kathy

 

[casportpony]

As an owner of peafowl of all ages, there are several medications that are a must have for me.

• Metronidazole liquid suspension 50 mg/ml
• Metronidazole tablets 100 mg
• Metronidazole tablets 250 mg
• Corid 9.6%
• Fenbendazole 10%
• Baytril 10%

-Kathy

 

[frenchblackcopper]

Your sick peachicks are how old? Is their vent area clean? Is there any poo sticking to their feathers and if so,what coloris it? If it is white in color and has a strange odor it's time to get some corrid into them,as they have cociddiosis and if not treated soon enough they will eventually die.Chicks become listless when they have this,just as you describe.

 

[Yoda]

Hello

One of the oldest baby peas is standing under the light while the rest of its siblings are resting away from it. These chicks were hatched in an incubator one at a time as the eggs were gathered daily and placed in it to hatch. They have been doing extremely well until I moved the largest to a separate brooder. One died the second day they were moved. It didn't look good after the relocation. I could just tell it was off, body language was very subtle but something was not quite right.

My thought is that they need worming. In the past I have put wazine in drinking water for them. I read on a previous thread where using safequard in a syringe was the preferred method. I am not comfortable doing it this way. These birds are still small, like they started hatching the last of May.

Can anyone give me some guidance here? I am handling these babies and hope to have some real friendly adolescents for sale.

Thanks, Judy (new to the forum and may make a mess of posting, I apologize if I do in advance) home to many many chickens, Buffs, RR, Silkies, Silky crosses, Batams, Guineas, Goats (ND and Pygmys) and Bouviers and Westies and one big Kangal girl who looks after things at night. my location is NE MS

Ok, First a couple questions. Have they ever met the outside ground? Where are your chicks brooder located? My chicks started hatching on May 17th. My setup is shown here:
https://www.backyardchickens.com/t/704066/ill-show-you-my-setup-if-you-show-me-yours-heavy-pictures The oldest chicks were just put into the cage brooder 2 days ago. Mine have not left the basement yet cause they are too young. If your chicks are having issues put them back into the last brooder they were in or add more heat lamps. Your chicks are too young to be put on the ground and if they were not and never seen the ground then they do not need worming. If you are cleaning your brooder regularly then they most likely do not have coccidia - this is why I feed medicated chick starter. The feed will allow them to catch it, but will cure it for them so they build up a immune system towards it. SageGuard liquid for goats is also put into the water same as wazine. 3 ml/cc per gallon of water (1.5cc/ml for half gallon and .75 for a quart of water). You moved them from what they are use to and now the pecking order has also changed. I am not like a lot of the people on here as I only feed my chicks medicated chick starter, nothing else. I want the chicks to eat that as a main diet cause it is balanced for a chick. As they get older I add cracked corn to the mix. When they get about 4-5 months I give them veggies and lettuce leaves. When adults I give them bread, watermelon, berries, etc. But my baby chicks only get the medicated chick starter crumbles. I am thinking your chicks are too young to come out of the last brooder and you might need to put them back into it. I moved my chicks out of the baby brooder into the large plastic tote and had to put some back into the baby brooder for a few extra days. I cleaned the baby brooder and left a baby chick in the tote and found it dead the next day. Feels really bad when the end up freezing to death and I caused it

I am so gald you did notice the body language of you chicks as they are telling you to put them back into the first brooder. So give it a try and see if you notice any improvements, if so leave them in it another week or so. I have a wire top on my large tote and I keep a towel over it to help keep in the heat. The heat lamp sits on the outside ontop of the wire top. I just lay the towel ontop and it ends about 2 inches from the heat lamp. If you can post pictures of your brooder we can help you much better

 

[casportpony]

Feeding medicated chick feed does not mean they can't get coccidiosis, it's just a preventative. If they do have coccidiosis, they should be treated with amprolium (Corid or Amprol), ASAP.

-Kathy

 

[zazouse]

Ok, First a couple questions. Have they ever met the outside ground? Where are your chicks brooder located? My chicks started hatching on May 17th. My setup is shown here:
https://www.backyardchickens.com/t/704066/ill-show-you-my-setup-if-you-show-me-yours-heavy-pictures The oldest chicks were just put into the cage brooder 2 days ago. Mine have not left the basement yet cause they are too young. If your chicks are having issues put them back into the last brooder they were in or add more heat lamps. Your chicks are too young to be put on the ground and if they were not and never seen the ground then they do not need worming. If you are cleaning your brooder regularly then they most likely do not have coccidia - this is why I feed medicated chick starter. The feed will allow them to catch it, but will cure it for them so they build up a immune system towards it. SageGuard liquid for goats is also put into the water same as wazine. 3 ml/cc per gallon of water (1.5cc/ml for half gallon and .75 for a quart of water). You moved them from what they are use to and now the pecking order has also changed. I am not like a lot of the people on here as I only feed my chicks medicated chick starter, nothing else. I want the chicks to eat that as a main diet cause it is balanced for a chick. As they get older I add cracked corn to the mix. When they get about 4-5 months I give them veggies and lettuce leaves. When adults I give them bread, watermelon, berries, etc. But my baby chicks only get the medicated chick starter crumbles. I am thinking your chicks are too young to come out of the last brooder and you might need to put them back into it. I moved my chicks out of the baby brooder into the large plastic tote and had to put some back into the baby brooder for a few extra days. I cleaned the baby brooder and left a baby chick in the tote and found it dead the next day. Feels really bad when the end up freezing to death and I caused it

I am so gald you did notice the body language of you chicks as they are telling you to put them back into the first brooder. So give it a try and see if you notice any improvements, if so leave them in it another week or so. I have a wire top on my large tote and I keep a towel over it to help keep in the heat. The heat lamp sits on the outside ontop of the wire top. I just lay the towel ontop and it ends about 2 inches from the heat lamp. If you can post pictures of your brooder we can help you much better

Yoda what type of bulb are you using for heat?

 

[Yoda]

Feeding medicated chick feed does not mean they can't get coccidiosis, it's just a preventative. If they do have coccidiosis, they should be treated with amprolium (Corid or Amprol), ASAP.

-Kathy

Did you read what I wrote Kathy

 

[Yoda]

Yoda what type of bulb are you using for heat?

I use a 100 watt in the brooder and a 75 watt in the large tote and a 60 watt in the dog cage/crate and 60 watt in the grow out cage inside the shed. I do not use a 250 watt heat lamp, sorry I almost burned down the shed with one LOL! Here are some pictures. You can find these almost everywhere they are clamp reflector lights. First picture is ot it sitting ontop of the large plastic tote. I buy the light bulbs at the Dollar Tree store LOL

 

[casportpony]

Did you read what I wrote Kathy

Yes, I did, but I was just a little confused by the wording, which happens to me a lot these days.

Guess it's another aging thing...

-Kathy