Purina Mills Coop By me.

Tunderwood

In the Brooder
7 Years
Apr 8, 2012
14
0
24
Canada (B.C.)
My Coop
My Coop
I, being new to the chicken game, found the purina mills coop design on the web, it was a free download. I am by no means a carpenter, but mechanically inclined so I figured if I take my time and In-list some help on the bigger parts of the job I could get this done before my chickens arrive and need to be in it.I found the supplied instructions to be a bit confusing and had to rely on the pictures along with some common sense. I have now completed the build and will add some final touches to pretty it up, along with some stain.
The Above Picture is the Start of the pile of wood and stuff that will turn into the coop.

This is the side that will receive the coop boxes, I was going to modify it and put 4 instead of just 3 but according to the plans this can house up to 8 full size chickens. We are only getting six.

The trained eye may see some blemishes in the workmanship but as I said I am no carpenter. For any one choosing this coop, I used 3/4 ply all the way around and I would suggest making your own measurements then relying on the spec's sheet. The coop turns out to be wider than what they note, and I would suggest putting in a temporary 2x4 across the top before sheeting to make sure it stays square. They sure designed it to be solid, I could stand on it and climb around in it no problem (I actually did jump around on it and had to climb over it before the roof was on, something about leaving a tool inside after sheeting it.).
I will submit more when I get the pictures taken.

This is a picture of the venting a long the roof line.

This is the side release door. I still need the ramp so they can leave it is 12x12, I think I may need another latch so the racoons can't get in...(Any suggestions?).

This is the nest boxes from the outside as you can see I have added some extra braces to the sides due to the mounting seemed a little under scale and the boxes were pulling away under its own weight. I still need to figure out a latch system to hold it closed and to hold open when collecting eggs, and I will also put some roofing on it for water run-off.

This is the clean-out door, I changed it from the way they want you to do it by making it open up instead of down. It makes sense to pull the 'crap' out to the wheel barrel instead of across the door and to the ground. I have hydraulic struts from a vehicle that I will mount to the sides to hold it up when cleaning and to offer assistance when opening. The hinges I had to bolt through otherwise the hinges will fall apart over time or rip out of the wood, screws are strong but not strong enough for repetitive motions with weight -so I'm told. The 2 2x4's laying there will be the stoop bars, I have to go get some dowels. The diagram does not tell you how wide they need to be so I just got in there and made a decision based on: 1, I made it swing up for cleaning. 2, I want some space to put a small feeder and waterer. 3, the fact that i will only have 6 birds.

This is the window in the roof and the vent line, I had an old window kicking around from another project that I commandeered for the skylight. I will put some clear plastic roofing over top after painting so I don't have to seal the glass or worry about water leaks.

Here is the coop boxes, I think I will put a strap 2x4 along the bottom for them to climb on to get up, because it seems to be a long way up.

Last but not least, These are my new birds. Just got them today, Guess I have to make sure all is ready for them to transfer to the new digs.
 
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The Cost was about $350Canadian (our prices in wood are higher up here) and that was including the hinges and screws, by the time I paint it and be fully done I will have spent just under $400.00. Take into mind I used all new stuff and 3/4 exterior finished plywood (@$26/sheet).
 
It's hard to tell but did you leave room for ventilation at the roof line? Is your chicken access door going on the other side or under the nest boxes as in the original plan? Very nice work!
 
How much money did this coop take to build?


We bought the wood to make this coop last week, at a Home Depot in Massachusetts, and it cost $140. We modified the coop a little but I think the wood we bought was the same as their list. We still need to buy some hardware, and we already had the screws and such, but I will post an update when we have a total cost :) I expected the wood to cost a lot more based on what I have read on here, so I was happily surprised.
 
Nice looking coop. Shoulld be adequate for 6 chickens.The Purina plans leave a 1 1/2 inch gap at the front and back basically all the way across. I modified mine adding screening at the top by only making the covered part of the sides 42 inches but I live a bit south of Canada. Made a flap to cover the front opening in the winter to cut down on drafts. Right now with it in the 70's at night they sleep on the top roosts. I also hinged the nestboxes to make them easier to clean out. Wish I had put the nest boxes or the chick door on the different sides. Where they are on the original plans I bump my head on the nestbox when opening the door. Planning a secure run now so won't have to close the door at night. You probably want to cover the nestbox entrances till they are big enough to start laying. You really don't want them to develop the habit of sleeping in the boxes. My cost was in between the two quoted, probably about 300 including paint and hardware and everything was new.
 
Nice looking coop. Shoulld be adequate for 6 chickens.The Purina plans leave a 1 1/2 inch gap at the front and back basically all the way across. I modified mine adding screening at the top by only making the covered part of the sides 42 inches but I live a bit south of Canada. Made a flap to cover the front opening in the winter to cut down on drafts. Right now with it in the 70's at night they sleep on the top roosts. I also hinged the nestboxes to make them easier to clean out. Wish I had put the nest boxes or the chick door on the different sides. Where they are on the original plans I bump my head on the nestbox when opening the door. Planning a secure run now so won't have to close the door at night. You probably want to cover the nestbox entrances till they are big enough to start laying. You really don't want them to develop the habit of sleeping in the boxes. My cost was in between the two quoted, probably about 300 including paint and hardware and everything was new.
I like the idea about the screening/blocking one end off for winter I was kind of wondering about heat loss, I am wiring in a lamp for in there and likely will need it for a couple months only. I moved the door to the other side because of like you said about bumping my head also 2 fold that now I could drop the boxes down a bit because Im not too tall in stature and will make it easier to reach in them.
 

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