Roost height?

[Cattle dog Mom]

I see over and over that the roost shouldn't be "too high" (due to risk of possible injury jumping down.) however I never see what "too high" actually IS. Girls in question are mottled Java's (which are LF just in case anyone doesn't know what Java's are. And should be on the larger end of that as adults.) While a ladder or "step" "of some sort can be added to make it easier for them to get up and down, well as everyone knows you can't MAKE them use it! Their "coop" will be 12x12 so plenty big that there is space for them to get up and down without hitting anything if they choose to jump down. Walk in coop, dirt floor with several inches of shavings. And they will be about 7 months old when they get here. So not very small. All that said, what say you?

 

[Mtnboomer]

Roosts can be set at the ceiling so long as they can reach them. My birds routinely roost in the rafters of my coop in winter using the roosting rods to jump up there.
A comfortable "jump" for most breeds would be 22-24" but roosts can obviously be set higher. If you go higher than 24", i would consider staggering roosts at different heights that they can jump from to the next.

That being said, my coop has three roosting rods. The 2 shortest are 24" off the coop floor. The middle one is 30" off the floor and the rafters are 48" off the coop floor. They have a total of 30 linear feet of roosting space. My coops "main area" is only 4x8 and is elevated 32" off the ground and they often fly down to the ground from the coop instead of using the ramp. We have never had an injury. I keep between 8-22 adult free ranging Brahmas but usually its around 12-14.

 

[Sublight]

My chickens walk up and back down my roost boards. They are at a angle like a ramp. They walk up it, then walk back down it. They dont jump up/down.

 

[centrarchid]

With my American Dominiques that have been used for fecal collection, I have been using a 1" wooden dowel positioned so it is about 12" above the ground so I can readily slide a larger poop board in an out without scraping feet of roosting birds. If the roost is lower then some times the hens do not all use it. The default roost height I use is about 36" which they use very well without harm to feet or legs in general. I have had them roost much higher while landing on hard surfaces without health issues.

There have been times during winter when I use square hay bells more for forage and entertainment that the birds sometimes used when coming down from roost.

 

[21hens-incharge]

I keep roosts at 2' high for a few reasons....

I do exams at coop closing and it is much easier to reach a bird if they are not in the rafters.

I have had very large birds (brahmas, giant cochins) and even if they CAN get down from a rafter why risk it.

No one poops on my head when they are never above my head.

 

[Cattle dog Mom]

Roosts can be set at the ceiling so long as they can reach them. My birds routinely roost in the rafters of my coop in winter using the roosting rods to jump up there.
A comfortable "jump" for most breeds would be 22-24" but roosts can obviously be set higher. If you go higher than 24", i would consider staggering roosts at different heights that they can jump from to the next.

That being said, my coop has three roosting rods. The 2 shortest are 24" off the coop floor. The middle one is 30" off the floor and the rafters are 48" off the coop floor. They have a total of 30 linear feet of roosting space. My coops "main area" is only 4x8 and is elevated 32" off the ground and they often fly down to the ground from the coop instead of using the ramp. We have never had an injury. I keep between 8-22 adult free ranging Brahmas but usually its around 12-14.

Thank you. I'm only getting 5 and really don't want to have roosts at multiple levels as it just takes up space. And while they would still have plenty of space with multiple roosts, attaching said roosts to the wall is MUCH easier said than done since they have to be screwed to guard rails! (Unless I were to make something "free standing".) I will attach Thank you. I'm only getting 5 and really don't want to have roosts at multiple levels as it just takes up space. And while they would still have plenty of space with multiple roosts, attaching said roosts to the wall is MUCH easier said than done since they have to be screwed to guard rails! (Unless I were to make something "free standing".) I will attach a picture of part of the inside of the stall turned "coop" so you can see what I am talking about. I currently use it to house my heritage turkeys. There is a 2x4 all the way across screwed to the top of the second guard rail from the top. I am 5'6" and it is a bit higher than waist high. My current thought is to turn this into the "hen house" and build something else for the turkeys, or use a 3 sided 12x15 horse shelter I already have for the turks. (Since I sold my last horse.)

 

[Cattle dog Mom]

I keep roosts at 2' high for a few reasons....

I do exams at coop closing and it is much easier to reach a bird if they are not in the rafters.

I have had very large birds (brahmas, giant cochins) and even if they CAN get down from a rafter why risk it.

No one poops on my head when they are never above my head.

I don't have "rafters" so that isn't an issue. LOL

 

[gimmie birdies]

Depends on if the hens are a heavy breed also.

 

[Cattle dog Mom]

Depends on if the hens are a heavy breed also.

7lbs +/- is what the standard calls for for hens (So they could be smaller, or larger. LOL)

 

[Brooks_]

Mine are at about 36" give or take. 6-7" of pine shavings on the floor for padding. Not that that matters much because a few of them just fly off the roost and out the door.