Roost Inspections

Iluveggers

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Jun 27, 2021
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I have been “helping” my new chicks (6-9 weeks old) go to roost each night to avoid the bedtime corner pileup that was occurring before my assistance. Although my chicks are very friendly, there are a couple who panic when I pick them up during the day, but when handled in the evening at roost they settle on my lap without a fight.

I have read of others conducting roost checks for health and general well-being. I was hoping to get some tips on how to do that. I have a few questions:

1. What light do you use to check? I have been using my cell phone turned toward the wall so it isn’t super bright, so I would like to be able to see but not bright that the chickens get crazy or start jumping off the roost to move around.

2. How often do you check your chickens? (Nightly, weekly)

3. What specific things are you looking for during a check?

4. Any other tips?

I sit with my flock for at least 30 minutes a few times a day as they range/forage to watch for any “off” behaviors, so the night check would just be to check for anything not observed then, and also to get them used to being handled/picked up in case medicine or treatment ever needs to occur.

Thanks!
 
1. What light do you use to check? I have been using my cell phone turned toward the wall so it isn’t super bright, so I would like to be able to see but not bright that the chickens get crazy or start jumping off the roost to move around.

2. How often do you check your chickens? (Nightly, weekly)

3. What specific things are you looking for during a check?

4. Any other tips?

1. I have a headlamp that has bright, dim, red, and white.

2. I check them periodically. Not all of them at any given time, but a few birds a couple times a week. Sometimes I just go along the roost touching them and not even taking them off.

3. I check their bands to see if they're tight, check the skin on the barebacked/saddled girls, check their condition according to the condition chart, look for toenail problems, "butt checks" on POL pullets, etc.

4. I don't expect them to like it. Sometimes it's a bit of a rodeo.

Wear sleeves if the weather permits. I don't wear gloves because I want to be able to really feel things.

Talk calmly to them in a soft voice as you work. It helps them understand that you're the same person you are in the daytime and helps you stay calm and not contribute stress of your own.

When it's just a matter of moving them out of nests and onto roosts or some such thing I get them to step onto my wrist like a parrot. They're less panicked that way than if I tried to hold them around the wings. If they won't step up forward try putting your wrist behind their ankles to get them to step back as you slowly push them off balance.

If you have to do things like change bands, clip wings, or apply/remove saddles get a second set of hands.
 
I'll add to check for mites and lice. A certain mite, the roost mite, hides during the day and only comes out at night. They run from bright light. So look in the vent area (they like the moisture) to see if you see them running away. Somebody (I think it's @aart but not sure) uses a white cloth or white gloves to rub the roost. If you get bloody red spots that's mites that had been sucking blood running away.
 
Since my coop is separated into two parts, I use the non-roosting area for their health checks. The feed barrels in there make a great place to work from. You could do the same with a small portable table or folding sawhorse, set up in the run outside your coop.

I use a small cheap headlamp like this one:
1659281055336.png

And another little worklight that has a hanger on it. I hang it from a cabinet door in the workspace area, shined on the top of my barrel. Like this one:
1659281320577.png


This keeps the roosting area dark except for when I'm in there to put one back on her roost and pick up the next one.

They move around a little, but they don't change places on the roosts. It's too dark to see well, and they're too busy worrying about what I'm up to. And the headlamp keeps things hands-free and spotlights the bird while I'm examining her or picking birds off the roost.

I check them about once a month. I have too many to do weekly checks. I'm looking for problems with the vent area, color of their combs, alertness and willingness to struggle against me (as opposed to lethargic), bumblefoot, scaley leg mites or other mites or lice, wounds, condition of the beak and eyes, condition of the crop, and signs of molting or feather-picking. I also check their abdomens for any signs of egg-binding or ascites, and look for signs and measure bellies to see whether they've stopped laying. I check the fit of leg bands (spiral colored plastic ones), and replace them as needed. I clean their bums if needed, and dust all their bums with diatomaceous earth. Hubby helps me and takes care of the dirty work of culling when necessary.

I minimize panic and risk of broken wings or legs by reaching underneath, getting hold of the bird by her legs, and then quickly hanging her upside down. I gently push her head downwards, and she instantly quiets and goes still. THEN I can lift and hold her appropriately in my arms so she doesn't flail and panic. She gets a little lovin' and petting as I move to the work area. I lay her on her back on top of the feed barrel, with one hand on her breast to hold her in place. If she's still struggling, I tuck her head under my arm, and that works well to quiet her down and gives me both hands free to work. Once checked, if she's a keeper, I gently put her back on the roost in the exact spot I picked her from, and grab the next one in line.

I have some cabinets in the work area of my coop (it's an old camper trailer), in which I store the supplies and tools: DE earth dust, a squeeze duster, scissors, wire cutters, an extra flashlight, couple of egg cartons, color sorted leg bands, antibiotic ointment, roll of paper towels (sealed in plastic), bottle of hydrogen peroxide, and my PVC cutters (for culling). I have a small toolbox with other medical and nutritional supplies that I keep in the house so mice don't invade it. If a bird needs a bath or serious treatment, I'll bring her into the house anyway.

Hope this helps!
 
Since my coop is separated into two parts, I use the non-roosting area for their health checks.

I use a small cheap headlamp like this one
Same here.


They run from bright light. So look in the vent area (they like the moisture) to see if you see them running away.
Yes, Gotta look quick.

Somebody (I think it's @aart but not sure) uses a white cloth or white gloves to rub the roost.

From my Bug Check Blurb.....
Have you checked them over real well for mites and/or lice?

Google images of lice/mites and their eggs before the inspection so you'll know what you're looking for.

Part the feathers right down to the skin around vent, head/neck and under wings.


Best done well after dark with a strong flashlight/headlight, easier to 'catch' bird and also to check for the mites that live in structure and only come out at night to feed off roosting birds.

Wipe a white paper towel along the underside of roost to look for red smears(smashed well fed mites).

Good post about mite ID by Lady McCamley:
https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/my-chicken-has-mites-now-what.1273674/page-2#post-20483008
 
Same here.



Yes, Gotta look quick.



From my Bug Check Blurb.....
Have you checked them over real well for mites and/or lice?

Google images of lice/mites and their eggs before the inspection so you'll know what you're looking for.

Part the feathers right down to the skin around vent, head/neck and under wings.


Best done well after dark with a strong flashlight/headlight, easier to 'catch' bird and also to check for the mites that live in structure and only come out at night to feed off roosting birds.

Wipe a white paper towel along the underside of roost to look for red smears(smashed well fed mites).

Good post about mite ID by Lady McCamley:
https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/my-chicken-has-mites-now-what.1273674/page-2#post-20483008
Awesome thank you.
 

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