Shed conversion and run construction questions

ksguy

Songster
Jun 9, 2015
151
50
116
Kansas
We moved in to a new home in the country a few months ago and chicks are in the near future (2 days away). With the property came an 8x12 garden shed (pictured). It obviously needs some TLC in the door and floor department but I have a couple other questions. I've read that coops should be up off the ground, but I'm not sure I'm comfortable elevating a structure this large, of undetermined age and construction quality. I know at the least we've got bunnies making a home underneath. What exactly is the purpose of elevating the coop? How high should it be?

As for design, I'm planning on splitting the interior in half, so 48 square feet. I'm adding a wall in the center, covered in hardware cloth, to keep the birds on their side. We've got 10 chicks coming, so that will leave me with over 4 sq ft per bird. The left hand door will lead into the non-coop part, where the cabinet is located, so I have a place for storage of feed and other supplies. The right hand door will latch to the center wall, so I can open it and enter the coop as needed to clean litter off the floor, etc.

Now, for security. If this thing is raised up off the ground, how high should it be? Do I allow the chickens access to under there? Do I surround it with hardware cloth whether or not I let the chickens under? As for the run, I'm planning around 350 square feet outside the coop. If they're allowed under it, that'll be closer to 450 square feet. Since I'm on a budget and hardware cloth is expensive, I'm planning on running 36" hardware cloth around the perimeter base, buried 12" underground, then the rest of the walls will be chicken wire. I have leftover deer fence (plastic mesh) I can use as a roof if necessary (haven't seen hawks, but I know they're around). I'll run 2 lines of electric fencing around the exterior of the run, 6" and 12" off the ground. Does that sound secure enough? I'd imagine that anything that tries to climb the hardware cloth will get an unwelcome surprise as soon as they try to grab on.

The shed doors face north, so the windows are on the east and west sides. Last pic is a panorama of the inside.

Thanks for feedback everyone!





 
Personally, I wouldn't elevate.
I would add ventilation, a lot of ventilation. Other than that, divide the inside as you like, add the run, add a pop door, roosts and you have a chicken coop.

I would not use chicken wire on the run. Better to use 2x4 welded wire and put the hardware cloth on the inside bottom portion. Chicken wire won't stop predators and generally doesn't hold up to weather well.

The hot wire will be a big help.

Just my opinion.
 
Personally, I wouldn't elevate.
I would add ventilation, a lot of ventilation. Other than that, divide the inside as you like, add the run, add a pop door, roosts and you have a chicken coop.

I would not use chicken wire on the run. Better to use 2x4 welded wire and put the hardware cloth on the inside bottom portion. Chicken wire won't stop predators and generally doesn't hold up to weather well.

The hot wire will be a big help.

Just my opinion.
I'm adding two roof vents like this. Inside of the vents will be covered with hardware cloth for security. The windows on there don't open, so I am going to the Habitat for Humanity Re-store to see what they have. Otherwise I may remove them for the summer and cover the openings with hardware cloth.
 
I'm adding two roof vents like this. Inside of the vents will be covered with hardware cloth for security. The windows on there don't open, so I am going to the Habitat for Humanity Re-store to see what they have. Otherwise I may remove them for the summer and cover the openings with hardware cloth. 


Sounds really good. We are doing the same with an old shed, still need to add a window on the South side. I didn't know about hardware cloth.
 
Some coops are elevated, some are not. Some on the ground have dirt floors, others have something else whether on the ground or elevated. I don’t know if that has a floor or not. There are all kinds of different reasons to elevate them or not. We are all unique in our own ways.

If you elevate it and give the chickens access, you need it to be high enough that you can retrieve a chicken or eggs under there. With an 8’x12’, that’s probably close to two feet. Some people don’t allow chickens under theirs so it doesn’t matter that much how high it is but some critters; mice, rats, snakes, or something else, might set up housekeeping under there. Since yours is that size it will be a walk-in, so if you elevate it you need a pretty strong floor.

Personally I would not elevate it.

Hardware cloth is pretty expensive. Chicken wire is not but many climbing predators, such as raccoons, can rip chicken wire apart. That plastic mesh won’t stop them either. What I’d suggest instead of using chicken wire above the hardware cloth, use 2” x 4” welded wire, also for the top. That will stop most major predators without wiping out your bank account. If you wish you can line the 2x4 wire with chicken wire to stop smaller predators from getting in. To be honest it’s really difficult to stop mice, rats, snakes, and weasels. They can get through tiny openings. Still that 2x4 wire will give you a lot of protection.

Electricity is extremely effective in stopping predators and your plan as you mentioned it would also be pretty secure. But what happens if the power is off? I use electric netting and it really works well except in power outages and in deep snow, but I like passive protection too.

To stop digging predators use an apron. Take about 18” or wire and lay it around the outside of your coop and run. Attach that firmly to the bottom of the coop and run fencing. You don’t have to bury it, just put something on it to hold it down until the grass grows through it but it will look better and keep away from lawn mowers and wed eaters if you remove the sod, say 2”, and then put that back on top. The idea is that the predator goes up to the fence, starts to dig, hits that apron, and does not know to back up. It’s really effective and a lot easier than digging down to bury wire, especially in rocky ground.
 
Some coops are elevated, some are not. Some on the ground have dirt floors, others have something else whether on the ground or elevated. I don’t know if that has a floor or not. There are all kinds of different reasons to elevate them or not. We are all unique in our own ways.

If you elevate it and give the chickens access, you need it to be high enough that you can retrieve a chicken or eggs under there. With an 8’x12’, that’s probably close to two feet. Some people don’t allow chickens under theirs so it doesn’t matter that much how high it is but some critters; mice, rats, snakes, or something else, might set up housekeeping under there. Since yours is that size it will be a walk-in, so if you elevate it you need a pretty strong floor.

Personally I would not elevate it.

Hardware cloth is pretty expensive. Chicken wire is not but many climbing predators, such as raccoons, can rip chicken wire apart. That plastic mesh won’t stop them either. What I’d suggest instead of using chicken wire above the hardware cloth, use 2” x 4” welded wire, also for the top. That will stop most major predators without wiping out your bank account. If you wish you can line the 2x4 wire with chicken wire to stop smaller predators from getting in. To be honest it’s really difficult to stop mice, rats, snakes, and weasels. They can get through tiny openings. Still that 2x4 wire will give you a lot of protection.

Electricity is extremely effective in stopping predators and your plan as you mentioned it would also be pretty secure. But what happens if the power is off? I use electric netting and it really works well except in power outages and in deep snow, but I like passive protection too.

To stop digging predators use an apron. Take about 18” or wire and lay it around the outside of your coop and run. Attach that firmly to the bottom of the coop and run fencing. You don’t have to bury it, just put something on it to hold it down until the grass grows through it but it will look better and keep away from lawn mowers and wed eaters if you remove the sod, say 2”, and then put that back on top. The idea is that the predator goes up to the fence, starts to dig, hits that apron, and does not know to back up. It’s really effective and a lot easier than digging down to bury wire, especially in rocky ground.

I'm totally leaning toward not elevating. I'll add security around the exterior base and call it a day.


I took the static windows on my shed and top hinged them, HC on the inside.

Excellent idea - my wife suggested the same thing last night. I'll see what I can pull off.

Thanks for the suggestions!
 

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