Some questions about fresh air coops and size

[gir007]

So while I was reading up on the forums designs for coops that can handle very cold winters and such, I came across JackE thread on his fresh air coop. I really love that coop design and from what I was reading there hasn't been an issue during winter, But a few things I kinda have wondered about these designs, because from the books i saw most of them are big coops. His happened to be 8'x16' if I recall and he had 11 chickens. I will not have more than 8 chickens more likely 6 to be honest, and I don't have a lot of land now yards not that small but not huge and I still want room for running. Can these designs be built say like 6'x8' and hold up to 8 chickens, "I'm using 8 being high point but most likely 6 just trying to over comp" safely and comfy? They will be free ranging the yard as often as possible. My other concern was and not sure if JackE or others with this design can put info, what temps can I expect during winters 8 deg to 12 deg days to be inside these coops? and if you have to cover the windows at all during the winters or have any form of heat sources inside? From what I can gather these are suppose to be solid designs though.

 

[Howard E]

The size you may want to consider is the 6' x 10', good for up to 12 to 15 birds. Half that would be perfect.

My birds went through -10F this past winter and all survived with no issues. Side windows closed to eliminate any drafts, but no cover over any of the windows. When it gets that cold, other things....like keeping water from freezing.....is a far greater concern than the cold is to the birds.

 

[gir007]

ya I'm not having more than 8, and about the windows, I know they need to be able to see out but during the winter should all windows be shut or is there supposed to be some with the open screen?

 

[Howard E]

The low window in the front is left wide open all year round. You might think it would be cold and drafty, but it is not. Once you get a few feet back of the opening, with all side and top windows closed up, things go dead calm in there. The classic case of well ventilated, but free of drafts.

Being wide open also means it is well ventilated, which is one of the keys to winter survival of the birds as it helps to avoid frostbite, which generally happens in tight, poorly ventilated houses due to an accumulation of moisture in the air, which comes from the birds themselves.

Also, the open side of a Woods house faces south to the winter sun. Always south. That way the winter sun shines in to warm things up and dry things out and even in the worst of winter, on a sunny day, it's all grins and giggles in there.

Also, if you want to go smaller and simpler to build than that, here is yet another option........



This one is 4' x 8' and would house 8 birds. You can build an 8' deep run to the side....as large as you might want, but another 4' x 8' run, with 4' x 8' enclosed below the coop would give the birds ample room.

This one is also wide open on the end......and should function much like the Woods house. With a totally secure run, you could leave the pop door open and let them come and go at will.

 

[gir007]

I think i might try a variety of options in 6'x10' 6'x8' options for the coop. might do the 4x8 but about the side windows is it better for sliding windows or ones that u can swing open like a shudder? Also is that 4x8 you drew above is the run underneath enclosed or is it open with screen?

 

[Howard E]

On the 4x8, it was intended that the area beneath be open with screening. My preference for wire is 1/2" x 1" 14 gauge cage wire, but hardware cloth might also work, depending on your predator risks.

A feature not shown is the south or high end hinges out from the top so the entire end swings up so you can clean the coop out. I would expect you could use a garden rake to drag all the litter out to front, where it would drop into a wheel barrow.

On the 4x8, although windows are shown, they could be omitted entirely. I've been using vinyl framed, single pane barn sash windows from places like Lowes. They cost about $20 to $25 and are maintenance free. I like to use them as sliding windows as they are simple to build that way and simple to operate. I also live in a high wind area, so all the windows are inside the building and slide sideways to open. Otherwise, I fear the wind would rip them right off the hinges. But the windows are you choice to do as you see fit. Some find or build wood frame windows that can be hinged from any of the four sides, opening in or out. Or some buy the more expensive residential or shed style windows and install them using normal framing methods.

 

[gir007]

cool thanks so much for the help I really appreciate it and I think im actually going to opt for a 6'x8' model. the last question I have for you i swear is for the exterior. Does everyone just paint wood or do they apply like roofing sheets or other water proof materials and sandwich it between an outer layer and such then paint? the roof is easy pezy just also wanna make sure this thing last for long time.

 

[jthornton]

I think if you maintain the same ratio as the original Woods coop you will be fine. Just make sure you have enough square footage for the number of chickens you plan on having the add the chicken math to that number. The Modern Fresh Air Poultry House book actually has many different designs in it and chapter VIII discuses the Small Size Woods House.

Looking at San Diego's temperatures you are in a very mild temperature zone year round so any design coop should work so long as you have proper ventilation.

JT

 

[Howard E]

cool thanks so much for the help I really appreciate it and I think im actually going to opt for a 6'x8' model. the last question I have for you i swear is for the exterior. Does everyone just paint wood or do they apply like roofing sheets or other water proof materials and sandwich it between an outer layer and such then paint? the roof is easy pezy just also wanna make sure this thing last for long time.

The Woods house was built with painted T1-11 siding, comp shingle roof. In a dry climate, you could use it, and even more so if you paint it a light color to keep the heat gain down. Light colored paint will last longer too. The T1-11 siding I found was made from yellow pine and was some pretty awful stuff. But painted well, it has held up so far (2 years). It you don't care too much about appearance, you could also use exterior grade plywood and paint that. If you want to doll it up, use battens as decoration.

I am currently building a second house......to be used as a brooder......and also as an experiment.

This one is 6' x 8'.....my version of the Victory House.

https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/the-victory-house.1225477/



This one is going to get metal siding and metal roof. Inside and roof will be insulated, mostly to keep the heat gain down in summer (siding color will be same as red barn in background.....which gets hot when the sun hits it) and condensation down in winter. Insulation is 1/2" foil faced polyiso board.

The Woods house is portable and has a dirt floor. This one will also be portable, but will have a wood plank floor. If it works as planned, this one will be rat and maybe even mouse proof, which also means snakes can't get in either. At least not when it's all buttoned up for the night. That is part of the reason for the metal siding....it is the most rat proof of all of them. It is also the most durable and when the cost of paint is considered, is no more expensive. But it does have heat and condensation issues. The horse barn I'm building this in would make a great case study for heat and condensation issues.

In a mild, dry, sunny climate, you could probably eliminate the vents and windows entirely, replacing them with cage wire screening. And move the door to the middle of the high side and make it a screened door too. A variation on this is found on page 61 of Woods book......the Martin Colony House. I'd have concerns about cold, sub-zero drafts in that one, which is why I'm building as I am.

Although it may not seem like it, in a lot of areas, you could also build this as a 6' x 8' or 8' x 8' A-Frame.....and leave one end wide open with screening, with screen door in the middle. Gives it a more unique look if that matters. A version for that was also shown on page 75 of Woods book, described as the Haywood-Curtiss House. That one would be easy and inexpensive to build using metal roofing, any may eliminate the need for insulation in milder climates.

 

[gir007]

I think if you maintain the same ratio as the original Woods coop you will be fine. Just make sure you have enough square footage for the number of chickens you plan on having the add the chicken math to that number. The Modern Fresh Air Poultry House book actually has many different designs in it and chapter VIII discuses the Small Size Woods House.

Looking at San Diego's temperatures you are in a very mild temperature zone year round so any design coop should work so long as you have proper ventilation.

JT

I realized I forgot to change my address lol I am now on the eastern side of the sierra nevada mountains :-|