The million dollar question: which ones do I keep?

[SoORchick73]

I started a year and 3 months ago, with 25 (expecting more than one Roo, and to lose a few to predators). We are in the country and I free range...no losses this far, with our one Roo on duty. In the last month, 21 chicks have hatched (one mama hen had 16, another 5). We kept 4 babies. So we have 29, one due to hatch on 6/29 and two that need me to get them set (broodys I keep taking eggs from). I have a large barn and run, but where do I draw the line? I let one mom keep 3, the other 1, and now what? lol? I tried breaking the Broodies, no luck. I've said I'd just let them darn sit. Darn sit and hatch and stop knocking devoted broody #3s eggs out of the nesting box

My first two hatched in the woods so I missed all the action. As far as keeping my coop at a manageable number...25 was good but who on earth do I part with? I have black sex links, RIR (very predictable workhorse layers --tho they BSL and RIR were the first to go broody on me. I also have EE/Americaunas and barnevelders. I'm selling my eggs to pay for my hobby. Who would you keep? To maintain a flock of good layers, and friendly chickens.??? I have room, just want to keep the damage minimal. I free range on 3 acres backed to forestry dept

 

[SoORchick73]

And how long do you keep a roo once you know it's a Roo?

 

[pdirt]

I'd pick out those that tend to be less healthy, more prone to disease or just aren't useful to you, or are mean.

If you intend to eat your extra Roos, I'd keep them as long as possible, up to 5-6 months to put some good meat on their bones. Assuming they aren't getting too aggressive by then. I have eaten 9-week old roo, but 20 week is much more worth it, IMO.

 

[Mrs. K]

Personally, I think a multi- generational flock is best. You get the advantages of all the ages, and the disadvantage of each age is covered by another, so you have a more consistent egg production. I laughed when I saw your BSL went broody, my first was a breed that was not suppose to.

You might read some standards, and look at some pictures on what skeletal confirmations are best. Good skeletal confirmation makes for longer lasting birds. Anything that has the least confirmation error needs to go.

You kind of, sorta want these age groups in your flock, give or take, this years chicks, last years chicks they are 1+ years now, and eventually 2+years and a few 3+ (your favorites). If 25 fit well in your set up, then come winter, 25 is where you need to be. In the summer you can cheat a bit, because the day is long, and the nights are short, and really they don't spend much time in the coop. However, in the winterr, regardless how much space you have to free range, they spend MOST of the time in the coop, in the dark days of winter, about 14 hours on the roost, not near as much time free ranging. Then your numbers neeed to be down.

Good luck, it is a fun hobby,

Mrs K

 

[aart]

Wonders how you tried to break your broodies, I used a wire crate and it's worked great now.

I'd rather harvest the cockerels at about 13-15 weeks, before they cause trouble as I don't have room to segregate them,
and still at an age where they're good on the grill for that luscious crispy skin.
Nope, not much meat but the grilled bones still make an excellent broth.

I have a multi generational flock and it does work pretty well, so far, still learning when to hatch and when to harvest.
Younger birds lay thru winter with light, older birds(~3yrs) go to stew, to consolidate flock numbers for good space in coop during my harsh winters.
Right now I've got 6 one year olds, 8 pullets and 1 cock that will stay thru winter.
Some young cockerels and old hens have already been harvested, more on the slate in a few weeks...and maybe a few more older hens before winter.

 

[MysteriaSdrassa]

Breaking broodies can be a pain sometimes,, our cochin breeder stock are always going broody and it is a right pain because they usually do it right in the middle of when i decide to start saving eggs for a few days to incubate. It can be frustrating to say the least.
I have found that the use of a "cluck" house is the best and easiest way to break the cycle. Something the size of a dog house, with a light inside. The brighter the better. Food and water of course. Boost the protein intake to help jump start her laying cycle again. Cat or kitten food mixed in with her food works great. Keep her in there for 3 full days with the light on. This should break even the most stubourn broodies. Good luck