- Mar 25, 2013
- 24
- 3
- 24
Hi all:
Use it up, Wear it out, Make do or Do without! Keeping that in mind, here's my idea for a 'thrifty chicken coop'.
Using concrete blocks I would form walls on 3 sides to raise the coop 4' off the ground. I would put a floor of 1/4" or 1/2" welded wire down on top of the concrete blocks, followed by 2 - 3 more layers of concrete blocks above the welded wire to form the actual coop walls. On the front where there is no concrete block I would form a base coop wall out of the welded wire flooring that's been bent up and secured to the capper with screws. (the base underneath the coop would remain open on the 3rd side). On top of all I would put a fiberglass full-size truck capper as a roof. I got it off Craigslist for $50. It's in great shape, has tinted windows that slide open, a tailgait window that lifts up so the entire capper is accessible, and is built like a tank! The windows in the capper will need welded wire screens that we will secure with screws.
The chickens will have a ramp leading up to an entrance through an opening left in the concrete block. Inside the coop will be nesting boxes made of kitty litter buckets placed near the wire floor, as well as roosts made from branches from our woods. The roosts will be higher than the nest boxes to prevent too much disturbance to nesting hens. The capper's tailgate window can be opened from outside to collect eggs from nesting boxes through holes cut into kitty litter buckets for easy access Food and water will be hung from the roof of the truck topper to eliminate food waste and keep water clean.
Below the coop I plan to use the deep litter method where leaves and straw are used to compost with the chicken poop that will fall through the welded wire floor of the coop. This will cut down on odor as well as create warmth in winter. If warranted, a 4th side of the base can be put in place during the winter to help conserve heat in the composting deep litter.
As moisture is a huge problem in many coops, I believe the wire floor and screened windows in the capper will allow for great ventillation. If warranted, 'windows' can be made by removing strategic concrete blocks and adding screen to allow more ventillation. The truck capper is surprisingly roomy; 6' X 10'. This will allow for a mini-pen to be incorporated as needed to introduce new chicks to the flock, or to cage off an area for a hen and her chicks w/o being pestered by nosy hens.
The garden area surrounding the coop will be fenced with low-voltage electric wire to deter predators. This coop will be located in an L of our house's exterior where it will be partially protected from wind, rain and full sun. This will also help hide the hens from flying predators. It will be near the kitchen window so we can keep an eye on the coop during the day, and a motion sensor light is already in place to deter nighttime marauders.
During the summer months the hens will be moving around our property in a chicken tractor equipped with a coop, so the birds won't necessarily have to be moved back and forth to the stationary coop unless it seems most beneficial. I like the idea of allowing the chickens to 'free range' in a tractor, as it will provide more safety from predators while allowing the benefits of free ranging.
As I've made my plans I've constantly kept in mind using washable materials that could be hosed off once or twice a year to make the coop as sanitary and healthy for the chickens as possible. Food grade diatomaceous earth will be provided the chickens for dust bathing, and the D.E. that falls into the deep litter will help kill bug pests that could otherwise harm the flock.
I welcome your constructive feedback. Can't wait for Spring to get here in the cold, grey Midwest! Cheerio!
Use it up, Wear it out, Make do or Do without! Keeping that in mind, here's my idea for a 'thrifty chicken coop'.
Using concrete blocks I would form walls on 3 sides to raise the coop 4' off the ground. I would put a floor of 1/4" or 1/2" welded wire down on top of the concrete blocks, followed by 2 - 3 more layers of concrete blocks above the welded wire to form the actual coop walls. On the front where there is no concrete block I would form a base coop wall out of the welded wire flooring that's been bent up and secured to the capper with screws. (the base underneath the coop would remain open on the 3rd side). On top of all I would put a fiberglass full-size truck capper as a roof. I got it off Craigslist for $50. It's in great shape, has tinted windows that slide open, a tailgait window that lifts up so the entire capper is accessible, and is built like a tank! The windows in the capper will need welded wire screens that we will secure with screws.
The chickens will have a ramp leading up to an entrance through an opening left in the concrete block. Inside the coop will be nesting boxes made of kitty litter buckets placed near the wire floor, as well as roosts made from branches from our woods. The roosts will be higher than the nest boxes to prevent too much disturbance to nesting hens. The capper's tailgate window can be opened from outside to collect eggs from nesting boxes through holes cut into kitty litter buckets for easy access Food and water will be hung from the roof of the truck topper to eliminate food waste and keep water clean.
Below the coop I plan to use the deep litter method where leaves and straw are used to compost with the chicken poop that will fall through the welded wire floor of the coop. This will cut down on odor as well as create warmth in winter. If warranted, a 4th side of the base can be put in place during the winter to help conserve heat in the composting deep litter.
As moisture is a huge problem in many coops, I believe the wire floor and screened windows in the capper will allow for great ventillation. If warranted, 'windows' can be made by removing strategic concrete blocks and adding screen to allow more ventillation. The truck capper is surprisingly roomy; 6' X 10'. This will allow for a mini-pen to be incorporated as needed to introduce new chicks to the flock, or to cage off an area for a hen and her chicks w/o being pestered by nosy hens.
The garden area surrounding the coop will be fenced with low-voltage electric wire to deter predators. This coop will be located in an L of our house's exterior where it will be partially protected from wind, rain and full sun. This will also help hide the hens from flying predators. It will be near the kitchen window so we can keep an eye on the coop during the day, and a motion sensor light is already in place to deter nighttime marauders.
During the summer months the hens will be moving around our property in a chicken tractor equipped with a coop, so the birds won't necessarily have to be moved back and forth to the stationary coop unless it seems most beneficial. I like the idea of allowing the chickens to 'free range' in a tractor, as it will provide more safety from predators while allowing the benefits of free ranging.
As I've made my plans I've constantly kept in mind using washable materials that could be hosed off once or twice a year to make the coop as sanitary and healthy for the chickens as possible. Food grade diatomaceous earth will be provided the chickens for dust bathing, and the D.E. that falls into the deep litter will help kill bug pests that could otherwise harm the flock.
I welcome your constructive feedback. Can't wait for Spring to get here in the cold, grey Midwest! Cheerio!
