100% Urban Predator proof Chicken Run

[Daox13]

Well, actually 8' post, but I knew what you meant...

Will you have a human door going into the run? Your top rail will be made out of..2x? Subtract that from the height, too, 'cause your head's gotta clear it, too. If no run door, then no worry.

Like I said, if you're happy with it, go for it. Lot's easier to add a foot now rather than later, though.

Whatever you do, enjoy the process and the finished product!!!!! Have fun!!!!

Ed

Top rail is going to be 2"x6" with the 4xs length 6' - 5' - 6' = 17' total length of run. I will have a human door, I may just make the human door bigger to accommodate a wheel barrow. it'll be framed out in the 5' section with 1' on each side and a 3' wide door.

My rafters will be 2x4s and I plan on a slant roof.

However I will discuss with the wife tonight, You may be right about the head clearance as now that I'm really mulling it over if I was to get 4 10' and make the front slant 7' and the back 6' that would ensure plenty of space.

Spend a bit more and change to a sloping roof rather than flat, so you will have more clearance, and the ability to add a tarp or solid roof later. Mary

That was the original plan was a slant roof, I am thinking about this and I think raising the front to 7' would give me plenty of head room and offer a decent slant. the roof will be 75% down the entire run and will be corrugated metal. I am leaving the last 25% open because the run is north facing with a 6' privacy fence behind, which will keep the chicken cool in the summer however allows very little direct light in the run. To prevent a damp run (even with good drainage) I'm leaving the last 25% to allow for 1-3 hours of afternoon sunlight to keep the run nice and dry and allow the girls on a cool day to warm themselves. they will of course still get sun light through the day as it will filter in through the back some, but not enough to keep the run dry.

 

[Folly's place]

If you made the front 8' rather than 7', it would really work well, and solve any snow load issues too. Mary

 

[Daox13]

If you made the front 8' rather than 7', it would really work well, and solve any snow load issues too. Mary

True, May I ask what the height has to do with snow load? is it the steep pitch of a 8' to 6'? Here in Va we get some, but its not more then a 1' on the usual. Are you saying 8' front and 6' back slant roof? or to go 8' front and 7' back?

 

[Folly's place]

I was thinking 8' front and 6' back, for a better slope. Mary

 

[aart]

Quote: Snow load has more to do with strength of roof framing and sheathing, if you get big snow load.
I can get 12-24 inches in places and learned the hard way(collapsed roof) late one winter to keep shed roofs cleared of accumulation with a roof rake.
My run roof is 2x4 welded wire, that can hold snow if conditions are right, have to keep it knocked off or prop it up in places at times.

An 8' to 6' slope will give you more head room and shed rain and snow melt better.
Good deep roof overhangs are something else to keep in mind, to protect and openings in coop(vents/windows),
as well as watching where roof run off will end up once it hits the ground.

 

[Folly's place]

That's also an issue with the 2"x4" rafters and the roof span. I'm about overbuilding, rather than the minimalist approach to framing. Must be nice to never get snow! Mary

 

[Daox13]

So I put in more work on the run. I have tweaked some designed and I have taken all suggestion into account. I have decided to go the route of 7' front and 6' rear. I'll explain why... it honestly had nothing to do with not wanting to change anything because I did actually go out and get 4 10' 4xs so I could go 7' in the front. I went around the property and measured the slope angle on the wood shed and lean to I have on property and both have the same angle or slope as I would have doing it this way and both had withstood 12 years and two major snow storms without issue. I will be doing the 2xs on the roof at a 12" width to ensure a stronger roof. Remember I am only doing a roof for 11' of the total 17' run. Things went pretty good and here are some pics.

As you can see I have set my post, spread my rock and started laying the bottom HC.

I have allowed 15" overlap to create the skirt to prevent digging under.


Toward the lowest point I dug under the fence and will dig into the back alley to create a drainage ditch (just incase we get a heavy rain).


Now I will say I came across my first (Oh no) moment, but that didn't last long. I started thinking about the snow and rain drainage from the roof and realized that the privacy fence I have is only 9" away from the fence panels. if it snows heavy or rains heavy and I only allow a 6"-8" overhang on the roof that would put all that rain and snow hitting the privacy fence and diverting it back into the coop or pressing the snow on the rear wire panel. But I immediately thought it through and I'm going to make the over hang 11" and the 4xs are at the exact right height and the roof at the right slope to over hang that roof so that the run off goes over the fence and into the alley. I will be putting a gutter on it and collecting it as well but that's a story for a different day.

I'm proud to say I think for just myself, hand tools, full time job and my beautiful and handy wife we have both accomplished quite a bit in a week. This weekend (weather permitting) I will begin the fun part.........framing and hanging wire.

 

[Intheswamp]

Who owns the "alley"?

 

[Daox13]

Who owns the "alley"?

I do, well I own half of it, it used to be county owned and maintained but now we are responsible for maintenance and we technically own half of it. everyone on my block keeps it open though incase you need access to the back yard.

BUT great question!

 

[Intheswamp]

Did the county give you a deed to it? If not, then, technically you don't own it. It sounds like you'll be fine with the eaves hanging over the fence...but if you don't legally own that land then be aware that later on if a county employee with a bad attitude comes along he/she could cause a problem. Is the alley graveled? Dirt? Asphalt? If it is just dirt you might want to run a line of gravel under the eave so that the run-off doesn't cause a rut/wash to form. But, there again, there may not be enough run-off to really matter.

Best wishes,
Ed