ADOR1 Automatic Coop Door?

About the concerns about wind or draft in the coop due to the sprocket holes, I have some comments and a simple solution.

First off, the coop should have some ventilation -- this is important to chicken health. Natural chickens perch in trees, so even a drafty coop is better than what they would have in nature. And for analysis, there are 35 holes at 1/4" diameter each in the panel, That is only 1.7 square inches or equivalent to one hole that is 3/4" diameter. Surely all coops have much more than 1.7 square inches of ventilation and thus the sprocket holes would be relatively insignificant to the whole amount of cracks and seams even in a well sealed coop. All those little cracks add up.

Nevertheless, here is a solution: you can tape regular packing tape (like clear 2" wide packaging tape) and cover the column of holes. You could run a strip on each side of the panel so that the tape bonds to each other in each sprocket hole. Then put the panel back in the frame and the sprocket teeth will cut little slits in the tape. Voila! You have sealed off the sprocket holes. --ROD

This seems like a very good solution! I did not think of the tape idea. I've had my original Ador1 for about 2-1/2 years now, and I solved the draft problem by building a wind block between the door and the roost, directing the air coming in through the sprocket holes at a right angle away from the roost.

I agree with you, Rod, that a chicken coop needs much more ventilation than what would come in through the sprocket holes. And yes, chickens in the wild do sleep outside, but in the wild they do not live in winters that routinely dip below 0*F before wind chill. Adding a draft to those temperatures would not be a good idea. The concern was not how much wind came through the holes, but that the door is near the floor and thus the wind entering would blow right up through my chicken roost before exiting through the ventilation windows near the roof of the coop. My well-sealed coop is otherwise very well-sealed, with vinyl flooring covering the floor and walls, and duct tape along all the seams.

In my coop, all the ventilation is up near the roof (except for the Ador1 sprocket holes), and in extremely cold weather, I only have one side of the coop open (the same side the Ador1 is on) to prevent it from being very windy inside the coop. So lots of ventilation but very little draft. And even less once I use the ingenious tape idea.
 
Thanks for all of your input on the Ador. I was looking for an automatic door and settled on this one thanks to your feedback. I just bought one.

This is a long thread and I confess I have not taken the time to read it all, so please feel free to redirect if my question has been answered already.

I think I want to install the door in the wall pictured below. I assume the best way to do that is to retrofit the bottom half of the hardware cloth with plywood, and then mount the door into the plywood. Does that sound like a reasonable approach, or would you suggest something different?

I think the door is typically installed on the coop itself, but this is an integrated coop/run that is totally predator-proof when it is all closed up and I'd like to keep it that way at night so the rats stay out of the food. So I'd rather the door were installed in the run wall vs. on the coop door inside the run. FWIW this is the Garden Coop, although we reversed the design, but this is the front wall that is just hardware cloth. I hope I've explained that clearly but if not let me know and I'll try again.

I also have a very secure run + coop, so I leave the pop door from the run to the coop open at night for added ventilation.

Thus, my Ador has been installed in one exterior run 'wall' for the past year.
This has worked well: I did add the external light sensor in winter to extend the closing time, and this solved that issue. Door closed at deep dusk, and opened early.
I did as you mentioned; integrated a piece of plywood into the run wall to install the door into. My door actually faces inside to minimize weather exposure. If you installed yours facing outside, you may not need the external light sensor.

I am very happy with this set up, and if I go away for a couple of days, the chickens can still get into their run to eat, drink and hang out. Also, vermin can't enter the run at night (so far!).



 
I also have a very secure run + coop, so I leave the pop door from the run to the coop open at night for added ventilation.

Thus, my Ador has been installed in one exterior run 'wall' for the past year.
This has worked well: I did add the external light sensor in winter to extend the closing time, and this solved that issue. Door closed at deep dusk, and opened early.
I did as you mentioned; integrated a piece of plywood into the run wall to install the door into. My door actually faces inside to minimize weather exposure. If you installed yours facing outside, you may not need the external light sensor.

I am very happy with this set up, and if I go away for a couple of days, the chickens can still get into their run to eat, drink and hang out. Also, vermin can't enter the run at night (so far!).



 
Thank you lynnhd! This is very helpful. So great to hear that you've done the same thing and that it's been working well for you. I also really appreciate the photos. I was thinking I'd have to install a much bigger plywood wall and thus block off a lot of sun and air circulation, but your photos made me realize that's not necessary and give me a "visual" for how to install it, which is exactly what I was looking for. I see that my door has been shipped already so I will be installing it soon.
Sure! As long as you can install cross pieces to attach the plywood to, you should be fine. I have a total of 3, because my plywood is in two pieces.
Also, my piece of plywood is tall enough so that when the door opens, there is still plywood behind it.
Of course, the actual door opening is much smaller.
These pre door installation pics should help too.

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Sure! As long as you can install cross pieces to attach the plywood to, you should be fine. I have a total of 3, because my plywood is in two pieces.
Also, my piece of plywood is tall enough so that when the door opens, there is still plywood behind it.
Of course, the actual door opening is much smaller.
These pre door installation pics should help too.

.

 
I have my turkey door since Rod released them. It is absolutely wonderful. I went with the rechargeable battery that Rid helped me find. It worked great at first but then I started having problems. After a few calls to Rod we thought that we had it fixed. Well, it started acting up again until we finally figured out that the problem was that my rechargeable battery had burned out. The recharger trickle thing that I had on it was charging it constantly instead of just when it needed it. I ordered me a new battery and charger that only charges on demand. There is a technical name for it but I can't think of it right now. It has worked perfect ever since. I love it and all of Rod's customer support.
 
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This is the battery charger I have now that works great. Rod I sent you some pictures and also the link.


Battery Tender 021-0123 Battery Tender Junior 12V Battery Charger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CITK8S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_9lJgxbVFEDVRV
dwink2: Thanks for the info. But I've got to say, we don't recommend running ADOR1 nor ADOR2 on 12V. These doors are designed to run on 6V and tolerate 12V, and in my opinion the door moves too fast at 12V and may lead to extra wear on the motor. But you are running successfully on 12V for more than two years now? I know you are not the only one, but again, we don't recommend it. -- ROD
 
"...works great. Rod I sent you some pictures ..."


Dwink2: thanks for the photos of your ADOR2 installation you emailed to us. That's a good looking install.

Of course if you want you could post photos here right in this forum thread, or could anybody else who has an ADOR2 installation they want to show to the world.
 
dwink2:  Thanks for the info.  But I've got to say, we don't recommend running ADOR1 nor ADOR2 on 12V.  These doors are designed to run on 6V and tolerate 12V,  and in my opinion the door moves too fast at 12V and may lead to extra wear on the motor.  But you are running successfully on  12V for more than two years now? I know you are not the only one, but again, we don't recommend it. -- ROD


Sorry everyone I didn't notice that I linked the wrong one when I was looking this morning. Following is the correct link. I will go back and see if I can delete the previous post.


Correct link to 6v
Battery Tender 021-0127 Battery Tender Junior 6V 750mA Battery Charger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CIPHT4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_T2Lgxb0CY6MX7
 
Here are a few pictures of my Ador2 Turkey door

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