Breed advice please?

[missmychicks]

We are planning our flock- it will be small, starting with 3 this year and then staggering, adding 1-2 per year until we get to a max of about 6. We primarily want them for eggs, pest control (they would free range in a protective chicken tractor), composting and general entertainment (we've had them before, and know what a hoot they are!). We won't eat them once they've stopped laying, so are looking for birds who won't freeload for "too" long (but will of course give them as good a life we possibly can for as long as they are with us)
So basically, longest laying breed that don't live "forever", as well as breeds that are docile.
Suggestions? TYIA!!!

 

[Rose the Legbar]

I’d recommend Wyandottes! I have two girls and I got laid 2 eggs a day regularly In the spring time. They also are pretty good winter layers as well! Although they are a heavier feathered breed that doesn’t do too well in the higher temps. They struggled with the few days of 100 degree weather where I lived. Otherwise, they are very good at spotting predators and alerting my flock of the dangers. One of my girls is super sweet and kind while the other is very sassy and loud, but they both will come hang out with me and sit in my lap. They love their snuggles!

 

[nuthatched]

Can I ask why you want to stagger them in that manner? It's a really hard way to go about it, especially for the new bird. Your beginning birds will be done laying by the time you get your full 6 and introducing single birds is hard.
A healthy hen can live about 8-10 years, 14 being ancient. Depending on the individual bird, they usually slow down/stop in the laying department at 3, maybe 4 years.
5-8 years is a while to freeload. I had one that I'm convinced never laid at all. :/
Docileness is up to the individual bird, no breed is guaranteed to behave in any way.
Hheritage breeds will lay longer but not as many eggs as high production breeds, which usually succumb to reproductive issues at 3.
My advice, if you really insist on staggering, is to get 3, (no feed store/hatchery will give you less than 4), raise those a year, next spring get 3 more to make your six.
That fall, get rid of the oldest, next spring, get 3 chick, rinse, was repeat...
Or get six, raise them two years, get 6 more in the spring, that fall, get rid of the older ones.
Quick tips:
Remember, 4 sq feet per bird in the coop, at least 8 sq feet per bird in the run, a small tractor doesn't really make up for lack of space, an 8x8 tractor will be manageable and a better area for them.
Chicken wire is not predator proof!
Others will chime in in the morning with more advice.
Good luck with your flock!

 

[Iluveggers]

Hi! What is the climate where you are? Plymouth Rocks are friendly, come in a variety of patterns/colors (barred, white, partridge, buff, Columbian), and lay eggs for a long time. My aunt had an 8 year old hen that still laid an egg or two a week. They are pretty hardy in all climates, so they would probably work wherever you are!

 

[3KillerBs]

Go Ahead, Pick the Prettiest Chickens!

That said, where are you located? Climate matters and while most chickens *can* be kept anywhere with appropriate care, some combinations like northern-selected breeds in hot climates, Mediterranean breeds in severe winter areas, and feather-footed breeds on heavy clay soils are going to be much harder to keep healthy.

In any climate, excellent ventilation goes a long way to mitigate climate-related problems: Repecka Illustrates Coop Ventilation

As @nuthatched mentioned, it's better to add additional birds in pairs or trios rather than singly. A lone bird is apt to be bullied.

 

[missmychicks]

Hi! What is the climate where you are? Plymouth Rocks are friendly, come in a variety of patterns/colors (barred, white, partridge, buff, Columbian), and lay eggs for a long time. My aunt had an 8 year old hen that still laid an egg or two a week. They are pretty hardy in all climates, so they would probably work wherever you are!

We are in Western Washington state, Zone 8. Pretty mild winters. I've had a Plymouth Rock, and loved her!

 

[missmychicks]

Can I ask why you want to stagger them in that manner? It's a really hard way to go about it, especially for the new bird. Your beginning birds will be done laying by the time you get your full 6 and introducing single birds is hard.
A healthy hen can live about 8-10 years, 14 being ancient. Depending on the individual bird, they usually slow down/stop in the laying department at 3, maybe 4 years.
5-8 years is a while to freeload. I had one that I'm convinced never laid at all. :/
Docileness is up to the individual bird, no breed is guaranteed to behave in any way.
Hheritage breeds will lay longer but not as many eggs as high production breeds, which usually succumb to reproductive issues at 3.
My advice, if you really insist on staggering, is to get 3, (no feed store/hatchery will give you less than 4), raise those a year, next spring get 3 more to make your six.
That fall, get rid of the oldest, next spring, get 3 chick, rinse, was repeat...
Or get six, raise them two years, get 6 more in the spring, that fall, get rid of the older ones.
Quick tips:
Remember, 4 sq feet per bird in the coop, at least 8 sq feet per bird in the run, a small tractor doesn't really make up for lack of space, an 8x8 tractor will be manageable and a better area for them.
Chicken wire is not predator proof!
Others will chime in in the morning with more advice.
Good luck with your flock!

Thats the thing."getting rid of them"...I know me-by the time that time comes, I will be attached and wouldn't want them to be dinner.

 

[missmychicks]

Go Ahead, Pick the Prettiest Chickens!

That said, where are you located? Climate matters and while most chickens *can* be kept anywhere with appropriate care, some combinations like northern-selected breeds in hot climates, Mediterranean breeds in severe winter areas, and feather-footed breeds on heavy clay soils are going to be much harder to keep healthy.

In any climate, excellent ventilation goes a long way to mitigate climate-related problems: Repecka Illustrates Coop Ventilation

As @nuthatched mentioned, it's better to add additional birds in pairs or trios rather than singly. A lone bird is apt to be bullied.

Great advice- I will add in pairs. I hadn't thought of feather footed etc, although we are in western Washington where things are pretty mild. But it can get/stay wet and muddy-a feather footed breed would probably not be a good idea. Thanks!

 

[3KillerBs]

Great advice- I will add in pairs. I hadn't thought of feather footed etc, although we are in western Washington where things are pretty mild. But it can get/stay wet and muddy-a feather footed breed would probably not be a good idea. Thanks!

IIRC, your area neither gets terribly hot nor terribly cold, right?

So, bearing in mind that feather-footed, silkied, and frizzled birds are not necessarily well-suited for a wet climate (though you can get around that with a fully-covered run and the use of a deep litter system), you can choose pretty much anything you like the looks and sound of.

You'll need to be very careful and diligent about siting your coop and managing drainage.

The best time to find out if you're going to have water intrusion issues is during an absolute DOWNPOUR. Put on your rain gear, go out, and carefully look at where water soaks in, where it sheets across the ground, where the channels are, and where it pools. It's MUCH easier to worth with your land's natural drainage than to try to fix it after the coop and run are in place (or, if it *has* to be graded, it's at least easier to do that first).

 

[missmychicks]

IIRC, your area neither gets terribly hot nor terribly cold, right?

So, bearing in mind that feather-footed, silkied, and frizzled birds are not necessarily well-suited for a wet climate (though you can get around that with a fully-covered run and the use of a deep litter system), you can choose pretty much anything you like the looks and sound of.

You'll need to be very careful and diligent about siting your coop and managing drainage.

The best time to find out if you're going to have water intrusion issues is during an absolute DOWNPOUR. Put on your rain gear, go out, and carefully look at where water soaks in, where it sheets across the ground, where the channels are, and where it pools. It's MUCH easier to worth with your land's natural drainage than to try to fix it after the coop and run are in place (or, if it *has* to be graded, it's at least easier to do that first).

That is really good advice! Thank you. We were planning on a deep litter system, and my husband's last coop that he built will probably be there long after we, the house, and everything else is long gone! So maybe a silkie....I do miss those funny little guys.
Thank you again for your wisdom!!