Capillaria

Quote:
Dont you trust me?
tongue.png
 
Kathy, did you check your Parasitology Reference Manual on how often to worm poultry with fenbendazole?
For capillary worms? For capillary worms it says 10-50mg/kg for 5 days, but it also lists ivermectin 0.4mk/kg by mouth or IM, and mebendazole at 25mg/kg every 12 hours for five days. I'll stick with Safeguard or Valbazen for now, lol.

-Kathy
 
How long would it take worms to do irreparable damage?
I would say the sooner they are treated before the first eggs are shed in the host, the better. Here are some facts about life cycle in the host:

The prepatent periods (time between infection and first eggs shed) are species-specific:
  • Capillaria annulata = Eucoleus annulatus: 2 to 4 weeks
  • Capillaria bursata = Aonchotheca bursata: 3 to 4 weeks
  • Capillaria contorta = Eucoleus contortus: 6 to 8 weeks
  • Capillaria caudinflata = Aonchotheca caudinflata: 3 to 4 weeks
  • Capillaria obsignata: 3 to 4 weeks
  • Capillaria anatis = Capillaria retusa: ~4 weeks
Species with a direct life cycle are more frequent under intensive farming conditions where constant temperature and humidity are ideal for larval development in the worms' eggs shed with the feces. Species with indirect life cycles are particularly abundant in traditional farms with birds kept outdoors, especially in humid and humus-rich soils that are favorable for earthworm development. In such farms wild birds can easily introduce Capillaria and other parasitic worms from outside.
 
I know, Dawg, I would think that deep litter in Florida would harbor lots of microbes. I'm wondering if I can buy big rolls of butcher paper and just run it under the roost, LOL
 
This is one reason why I'm against the deep litter method. It's nothing but a capillary worm hot bed.

It may seem unnecessarily laborious to some, but that is why I choose to remove litter from the coop every 3-4 months, disinfect with activated Oxine, treat with EC, then put new shavings down. I use a good layer of pine shavings to keep the floor dry and well padded for birds hoping off of roosts. That helps prevent bumblefoot. Every morning I do a quick pickup under roosts after letting birds out to fresh water and feed, then get off to work. I am a big fan of clean river sand in the yards, it keeps the yards well drained in Winter, and is easily sifted through with a fine rake to prevent droppings build up in drier weather. I prefer hanging feeders in the Winter to prevent excessive eating off the ground. I see the difference in the health of my birds. I range them, but only when I am home.
 
I know, Dawg, I would think that deep litter in Florida would harbor lots of microbes. I'm wondering if I can buy big rolls of butcher paper and just run it under the roost, LOL

I use plain old newspaper, Seminolewind. Lay it out in full sheets overlapping so that all I have to do is roll it up, replace and I'm done. I do keep hay in the nesting boxes, but there is seldom any poop there and I dust generously with DE so that any that is there is pretty quickly desiccated.
 

New posts New threads Active threads

Back
Top Bottom