Chicken Questions

[Newhampshirefolk]

Do you want a covered run? If so make sure you build it for your snow load.

Yes! I was planning on one, so they can use it during winter too!

 

[Newhampshirefolk]

Just for your info, the rule-of-thumb for having a backyard flock is about 4-6 birds for a typical family of 4. That will keep you in fresh eggs. If you are talking about getting 30-40 egg laying chickens, then you are looking at a small business.
What is your goal with your chickens?

The BYC forum is exactly the best place to ask questions and members here are more than willing to help. But it would help others if you could tell us what your goal is in having chickens. 30-40 egg laying hens is a lot more than the typical backyard flock. Once we understand where you want to go, you will receive better answers. Flock size matters in many ways.

Thanks a bunch! I was looking at supplying eggs for my family[ we go through about 2-3 dozen of eggs a week.] as well as giving some to my neighbor. Also selling eggs would be ideal i also enjoy chickens and figured having fresh eggs. would be great and the fact i could sell some as well for a better price would be nice. Overall, though i guess my goal would be to just have my own fresh eggs and be able to sell some as well. So i suppose a small egg business!
Thanks for the reply!

 

[Krugerrand]

More things to consider.

First and foremost, check your local laws and ordinances. It may impact how many chickens you can have, if you can have roosters, where a coop may or may not stand on your property what options you have to sell surplus eggs

Spend some time reviewing the coop pages to see what people have liked and don't like. Up north for larger setups, the Woods style coop is well regarded.

Keep in mind, as chickens age their production slows down. Do you plan to cull and replace or, will you support older hens in their 'retirement?' If you want to maximize production, you'll want to have lots of young hens. If you plan to harvest older hens, then something like getting 10 chicks one year, 10 another year and 10 more the next year will ensure that you stream of eggs is more steady than if you start out with 30. If you are keeping the older hens as their production slows down, you might be better with 5 sets of 6 or 6 sets of 5.

Do you plan to keep roosters and raise chicks to replace your hens or will you buy more chicks as needed? That can impact how you want design your coop.

Hens can be shockingly mean to newcomers and extra space beyond than bare minimums helps to accommodate that integration process.

What is your waste management plan? Lots of people around here go for poop boards. Others go for deep bedding. Lots of users of wood chips in the run. Some do sand. But, your location often dictates what can and cannot work where you are. Your waste management plan can drive what features you will want to include in your coop.

Finally, ask questions about any and all of these things as your ponder them. Lots of people here are glad to help.

 

[aart]

I was looking at supplying eggs for my family[ we go through about 2-3 dozen of eggs a week.] as well as giving some to my neighbor. Also selling eggs would be ideal i also enjoy chickens and figured having fresh eggs. would be great and the fact i could sell some as well for a better price would be nice. Overall, though i guess my goal would be to just have my own fresh eggs and be able to sell some as well. So i suppose a small egg business!

If you start with chicks it will be ~6 months before they lay.
Cost of producing eggs is not much less, if at all, than buying them.
Egg prices are coming down fast after the huge surge in price.
Feed prices went up 30% in the past couple few years, they are not coming down.

Sorry to be such a debbie-downer,
just trying to bring some reality to balance the romantic, rose colored pipe dreams.

 

[Newhampshirefolk]

If you start with chicks it will be ~6 months before they lay.
Cost of producing eggs is not much less, if at all, than buying them.
Egg prices are coming down fast after the huge surge in price.
Feed prices went up 30% in the past couple few years, they are not coming down.

Sorry to be such a debbie-downer,
just trying to bring some reality to balance the romantic, rose colored pipe dreams.

Thats completely fine and i appreciate the feedback! I mainly want chickens for my own family anyways! in my house theres around 8 of us, and around us there is probably closer to 28 family members and we all like eggs! If i can supply the family and neighbor and still make some money on the side thats great! + could be nice to have some pet chickens!

 

[Ridgerunner]

Hi, welcome to the forum from Louisiana, glad you joined.

Setting up a business is different from getting a few backyard chickens to provide yourself with eggs and meat, though many things are similar. You always need to know if you can legally have chickens and what restrictions there may be on that. Your operation would probably be too small for the feds to be involved unless you are selling across state lines but state and local governments can have requirements for licensing and inspections. Maybe permits, maybe for waste disposal. They could have regulations as to how you handle the eggs, things like cleaning and refrigeration. Maybe packaging, labeling, and shipping. Typically the smaller your operation is the less onerous the regulations are but I'd at least want to know my legal exposure before I invested a lot of money. With the size of your operation this probably won't be that bad.

You need to find a market. On this scale you can't come close to matching the per egg production costs of the big commercial operations so you need to find a niche market so you can charge more. That could be things like organic, free range, cage free, or some other niche. What niche you plan to enter will have an effect on how you set up. Some potential markets you might not think of might be a farmer's market, a "health food" store, or maybe a restaurant.

Hello! i am quite new here and joined recently because i was looking into getting chickens! I do have a few questions however and was hoping this was the right spot to ask! If not i apologize. I was curious on if anyone knew of any blueprints for chicken housing i was looking at getting 30-40 chickens and i noticed i can't find anything that would fit that many near me so was hoping to build one.

Building is probably going to be your best bet, both the coop and the run. And you are probably not going to be limited to that. You'll need to store feed and other supplies like egg cartons. You may need extra refrigeration to store the eggs before you can ship them. I think one of my first calls would be to your county extension office and chat with them. They should be able to help you with a lot of this stuff, from the legal issues to the physical plant.

If I were building from scratch, most building materials come in 4' or 8' dimensions in the most common and least expensive sizes. If you can build around these dimensions you can usually reduce cutting and waste.

My second question is, i was wondering what food is ideal for chickens i was looking at egg laying chickens [White Leghorn chickens] as i heard they are great egg layers!

There is a reason the commercial operations typically feed their laying hens a 16% protein layer feed. It's not because they are cruel inhuman monsters that enjoy abusing their chickens. They use the commercial hybrids to lay eggs. The commercial hybrids are fairly small bodied (about the size of a Leghorn) that lay a fairly large egg (like the Leghorn). Those hybrids are bred to have small bodies relative to the size of egg they lay so they can efficiently convert feed to eggs instead of needing more protein and other nutrients for body functions. If they fed them a higher protein content feed the eggs would be larger which can lead to more prolapse, internal laying, eggbound, or dead chickens. It is a business so it is about money. Dead hens or hens with laying problems are not making a profit.

Another side to this is that the larger dual purpose hens can handle more protein due to body size. And if yours forage for much of their feed or get a lot of low protein treats they can handle more protein in their feed. It is not how much protein is in one bite, it is how many total grams of protein they get in a day.

My third question is what would you recommend i get for the chickens before i actually get them?

What chickens need is appropriate food and clean water. Clean water is very important. They need protection from predators. They need protection from the environment. Heat is dangerous to chickens. They can handle up into the low 90's OK but after that it can get dangerous. Shade and plenty of water helps. Chickens can handle cold pretty well until it gets down to the range of -20 F. Then it can get really touchy. One risk at below freezing temperatures is frostbite. In New Hampshire you probably know to not go out in the dead or winter with wet hands, feet, or face, especially with a wind. Chickens generate a lot of moisture with their breathing and poop. Any thawed water adds to the moisture level. You need decent ventilation to get that wet air out of the coop and let drier air in. You do not want a cold wind hitting them on the roost.

The coop and run need to stay dry. A wet coop or run can be a dangerous diseased coop and run. When the weather sets in wet it can be really hard to keep a run dry. As long as they can get out of the wet they should be OK. Covering at least part of the run like you plan will help but rain and snow can blow in from the side. Ground water can run in. Just do the best you can to keep the water out and to drain it if it does get wet.

They need adequate space. You can get different opinions as to what this actually means. I find the more I crowd them the more behavioral problems I have to deal with, the harder I have to work, and the less flexibility I have to deal with issues. I don't look at coop space only. If you have part of your run set up to keep snow out and prevent a strong wind hitting them then your coop and that run together is your available space. I believe you are better off with more room instead of less. Maybe you will address some of this when you are looking for your niche.

Some people give all kinds of additives and supplements but many of us don't. As long as you don't overdo them they will not hurt, but I don't consider those needs. I also don't treat unless I have something specifically identified that needs treating. Others have a different philosophy.

I'm probably coming across as fairly negative, I don't mean to. This is something you can handle but it won't be that easy. It is a commitment as you have to be there every day, no week long trips to Disney unless you have someone to cover for you. It is better to be prepared. Good luck!

 

[Newhampshirefolk]

More things to consider.

First and foremost, check your local laws and ordinances. It may impact how many chickens you can have, if you can have roosters, where a coop may or may not stand on your property what options you have to sell surplus eggs

Spend some time reviewing the coop pages to see what people have liked and don't like. Up north for larger setups, the Woods style coop is well regarded.

Keep in mind, as chickens age their production slows down. Do you plan to cull and replace or, will you support older hens in their 'retirement?' If you want to maximize production, you'll want to have lots of young hens. If you plan to harvest older hens, then something like getting 10 chicks one year, 10 another year and 10 more the next year will ensure that you stream of eggs is more steady than if you start out with 30. If you are keeping the older hens as their production slows down, you might be better with 5 sets of 6 or 6 sets of 5.

Do you plan to keep roosters and raise chicks to replace your hens or will you buy more chicks as needed? That can impact how you want design your coop.

Hens can be shockingly mean to newcomers and extra space beyond than bare minimums helps to accommodate that integration process.

What is your waste management plan? Lots of people around here go for poop boards. Others go for deep bedding. Lots of users of wood chips in the run. Some do sand. But, your location often dictates what can and cannot work where you are. Your waste management plan can drive what features you will want to include in your coop.

Finally, ask questions about any and all of these things as your ponder them. Lots of people here are glad to help.

I was thinking of using wood shavings, as far as roosters i won't get a rooster, i live near folks and i wouldn't want them to get woken up by em in the early morning! I planned to buy others and probably cull them when they don't lay. Also, thanks for the suggestion! I will probably start off with 10 and get 10 every year like you said seems like it would be a good idea so you can replace 10 instead of 30. at same time.

As far as allowing chickens, it's safe to say we can my other neighbor who is honestly quite rude and inconsiderate has some and a rooster which is loud, they have ducks and chickens and turkeys.
I was also thinking of using the chicken manure as compost as i hear its actually quite good for plants etc. If you have any recommendations for what to do with the waste i'd love to hear though!
I appreciate your feedback and thankful you suggested the 10 every year option!

 

[Sally PB]

Were you planning to have chickens as a source of meat too? If so, you might want to look at other breeds than Leghorns. Yes, they lay a lot of eggs, but they're not a meaty bird. You might want to consider some dual purpose (DP) breeds as well.

Good for you, for asking a bunch of questions BEFORE you get chickens. 30-40 birds is a big commitment, so take some time, read up on various chicken topics, and yes, ask questions here on BYC. The pool of knowledge here is wide and deep.

And,

 

[Newhampshirefolk]

Hi, welcome to the forum from Louisiana, glad you joined.

Setting up a business is different from getting a few backyard chickens to provide yourself with eggs and meat, though many things are similar. You always need to know if you can legally have chickens and what restrictions there may be on that. Your operation would probably be too small for the feds to be involved unless you are selling across state lines but state and local governments can have requirements for licensing and inspections. Maybe permits, maybe for waste disposal. They could have regulations as to how you handle the eggs, things like cleaning and refrigeration. Maybe packaging, labeling, and shipping. Typically the smaller your operation is the less onerous the regulations are but I'd at least want to know my legal exposure before I invested a lot of money. With the size of your operation this probably won't be that bad.

You need to find a market. On this scale you can't come close to matching the per egg production costs of the big commercial operations so you need to find a niche market so you can charge more. That could be things like organic, free range, cage free, or some other niche. What niche you plan to enter will have an effect on how you set up. Some potential markets you might not think of might be a farmer's market, a "health food" store, or maybe a restaurant.


Building is probably going to be your best bet, both the coop and the run. And you are probably not going to be limited to that. You'll need to store feed and other supplies like egg cartons. You may need extra refrigeration to store the eggs before you can ship them. I think one of my first calls would be to your county extension office and chat with them. They should be able to help you with a lot of this stuff, from the legal issues to the physical plant.

If I were building from scratch, most building materials come in 4' or 8' dimensions in the most common and least expensive sizes. If you can build around these dimensions you can usually reduce cutting and waste.


There is a reason the commercial operations typically feed their laying hens a 16% protein layer feed. It's not because they are cruel inhuman monsters that enjoy abusing their chickens. They use the commercial hybrids to lay eggs. The commercial hybrids are fairly small bodied (about the size of a Leghorn) that lay a fairly large egg (like the Leghorn). Those hybrids are bred to have small bodies relative to the size of egg they lay so they can efficiently convert feed to eggs instead of needing more protein and other nutrients for body functions. If they fed them a higher protein content feed the eggs would be larger which can lead to more prolapse, internal laying, eggbound, or dead chickens. It is a business so it is about money. Dead hens or hens with laying problems are not making a profit.

Another side to this is that the larger dual purpose hens can handle more protein due to body size. And if yours forage for much of their feed or get a lot of low protein treats they can handle more protein in their feed. It is not how much protein is in one bite, it is how many total grams of protein they get in a day.


What chickens need is appropriate food and clean water. Clean water is very important. They need protection from predators. They need protection from the environment. Heat is dangerous to chickens. They can handle up into the low 90's OK but after that it can get dangerous. Shade and plenty of water helps. Chickens can handle cold pretty well until it gets down to the range of -20 F. Then it can get really touchy. One risk at below freezing temperatures is frostbite. In New Hampshire you probably know to not go out in the dead or winter with wet hands, feet, or face, especially with a wind. Chickens generate a lot of moisture with their breathing and poop. Any thawed water adds to the moisture level. You need decent ventilation to get that wet air out of the coop and let drier air in. You do not want a cold wind hitting them on the roost.

The coop and run need to stay dry. A wet coop or run can be a dangerous diseased coop and run. When the weather sets in wet it can be really hard to keep a run dry. As long as they can get out of the wet they should be OK. Covering at least part of the run like you plan will help but rain and snow can blow in from the side. Ground water can run in. Just do the best you can to keep the water out and to drain it if it does get wet.

They need adequate space. You can get different opinions as to what this actually means. I find the more I crowd them the more behavioral problems I have to deal with, the harder I have to work, and the less flexibility I have to deal with issues. I don't look at coop space only. If you have part of your run set up to keep snow out and prevent a strong wind hitting them then your coop and that run together is your available space. I believe you are better off with more room instead of less. Maybe you will address some of this when you are looking for your niche.

Some people give all kinds of additives and supplements but many of us don't. As long as you don't overdo them they will not hurt, but I don't consider those needs. I also don't treat unless I have something specifically identified that needs treating. Others have a different philosophy.

I'm probably coming across as fairly negative, I don't mean to. This is something you can handle but it won't be that easy. It is a commitment as you have to be there every day, no week long trips to Disney unless you have someone to cover for you. It is better to be prepared. Good luck!

Thanks a bunch for the detailed reply! I was thinking of getting a covered run specifically due to the snow/rain we get! I do have a question though what do most of ya'll use for heating inside the coops etc? i'd like for it to be a comfortable temperature for them.

 

[Ridgerunner]

How cold do you see? This links to an article about someone with really cold weather.

Cold Weather Poultry Housing and Care | BackYard Chickens - Learn How to Raise Chickens