Dumor 22% Duck All Lifestages feed

[Ourgosling22]

Here’s another way to look at diet for adult geese.

In colder months nutritional requirements go up, so you can put them on a higher protein feed “20%.”
During molting their nutritional needs also go up so they need a higher protein feed “20%.”
During warmer months when they aren’t molting and there’s plenty of grass they only really need a 17% feed.
For sick or underweight birds 30% feed is great for recovery, but shouldn’t be fed otherwise.

The simplest way to feed alot of geese of various ages and sizes is by keeping them on a 20% feed “which is what I do,” but like I said small breeds can get fairly chunky on that and it’s something you sometimes have to keep an eye on, but even that can vary depending on the bird, my small buff binges on feed whereas my small Roman self moderates.

Ok-I just have a small flock of 6 Pekin and 3 white geese(sorry it’s late and I’m blanking on their breed) the one young one is one I’m trying to help with the limping walking struggle.(you thought it might have rickets but unsure) Sherbert seems to be doing a little better but still limps. So I’m questioning my feeding due to that and with it being spring. My ducks are not very plump but still very lively and active.

 

[EggSighted4Life]

According to the chart it says I should be giving them layer feed. It was separated by duck and goose but I’m assuming I can give them the same kind. The percentages in the minerals were slightly different from what I can see. I’ve been feeding them flockraiser due to the niacin.
So from what I’m seeing, it’s okay to just give them the pellets daily and give the other stuff on occasion?

As long as you make oyster shell available for the active layers.. yes, I think you got the idea. Their needs are close enough to one another that most commercial formulations will be within that range.

I have used Purina brand flock raiser (20% protein) for years without issue for ducks, chickens, and right aged turkeys) and it has geese listed to use for all life stages also.. I'm currently using a Dumor product.. All brands have issues at some time and turn over/freshness varies by location. I use Mazuri feeds for my other animals.. mini pigs, guinea pigs.. Brand and marketing doesn't matter beyond personal experience.

In colder months nutritional requirements go up, so you can put them on a higher protein feed “20%.”

Where does this SEASONAL information/suggestion come from and can you provide links. or corroboration. because despite it being what I previously thought and many folks still claim..the veterinary sources (I've seen so far) indicate the opposite is true. When not in breeding season, gamebirds often go on lower protein "maintenance" feed (as one example). There are green tables for individual poultry species on the side of the page as you scroll down in following link from a known and trusted resource (according to me). Though I'm not trying to convince you or anyone else I still prefer and choose (and recommend) the 20% protein (amino acid) level full time.

https://www.merckvetmanual.com/poul...t-poultry/nutritional-requirements-of-poultry

Trying to keep up with everything.

It's not easy.. but stick with a formulated ration and keep other things more balanced as a treat or enrichment, and hang in there.. Looks like you're getting it!

Regarding getting needed nutrients from BOSS.. please note this quote taken from the previous (Merck vet manual) link..

"The nutrient requirement values in the accompanying tables are based on typical rates of intake of birds in a thermoneutral environment consuming a diet that contains a specific energy content (eg, 3,200 kcal/kg for broilers). If a bird consumes a diet that has a higher energy content, it will decrease its feed intake; consequently, that diet must contain a proportionally higher amount of amino acids, vitamins, and minerals"

The simplest way to feed alot of geese of various ages and sizes is by keeping them on a 20% feed “which is what I do,” but like I said small breeds can get fairly chunky on that and it’s something you sometimes have to keep an eye on, but even that can vary depending on the bird, my small buff binges on feed whereas my small Roman self moderates.

Protein content is not what makes birds chunky or people.. energy is energy regardless of the source.. How is 4 calories from carbohydrates even fiber different than 4 calories from protein? Though protein content may be directly correlate to muscle development.. that's not chunkiness.. Please note.. I'm TRULY friendly chatting here and interested in your answer.. I'm NOT presuming to know anything!

And yes, molting birds are replacing feathers which despite being only 2% digestible in their raw form ARE made from 90% protein and it's amino acids.. They however are not *usually* laying during this time and that is where the redirected energy comes from and goes to.

Metzer’s feed guide is a good guide but something to keep in mind is that it’s a general guide and it’s also suited to the geese at Metzer

Well, I disagree about their guide being suited to environment rather than species.. What good would giving all your customers bad information be and have them end up with sick animals? Also.. how does it defer from the veterinary resource I added?? I do agree about it being a guide and some individuals may not fall in line with the "norm".. and yes of course.. they can't know what excess feed stuffs you're adding in or account for that. Even the veterinary resource states it's a guide based on "typical dietary energy concentrations".

the one young one is one I’m trying to help with the limping walking struggle.(you thought it might have rickets but unsure)

Sorry, I'm not sure of the whole story.. have you checked for injury?

Diet is a great consideration and you might be onto something! Have you posted video and such, did I miss a link to another thread? Some birds that have been impacted by nutrient deficit *may* not recover from their limping (or torticollis, etc) status even after the correction has been made, especially if persisting for some time already. Is veterinary care or assessment an option?

Hope everyone get's (or keeps) THEIR flock stuff dialed in and they continue (or start) to thrive!

 

[Goosebaby]

As long as you make oyster shell available for the active layers.. yes, I think you got the idea. Their needs are close enough to one another that most commercial formulations will be within that range.

I have used Purina brand flock raiser (20% protein) for years without issue for ducks, chickens, and right aged turkeys) and it has geese listed to use for all life stages also.. I'm currently using a Dumor product.. All brands have issues at some time and turn over/freshness varies by location. I use Mazuri feeds for my other animals.. mini pigs, guinea pigs.. Brand and marketing doesn't matter beyond personal experience.


Where does this SEASONAL information/suggestion come from and can you provide links. or corroboration. because despite it being what I previously thought and many folks still claim..the veterinary sources (I've seen so far) indicate the opposite is true. When not in breeding season, gamebirds often go on lower protein "maintenance" feed (as one example). There are green tables for individual poultry species on the side of the page as you scroll down in following link from a known and trusted resource (according to me). Though I'm not trying to convince you or anyone else I still prefer and choose (and recommend) the 20% protein (amino acid) level full time.

https://www.merckvetmanual.com/poul...t-poultry/nutritional-requirements-of-poultry


It's not easy.. but stick with a formulated ration and keep other things more balanced as a treat or enrichment, and hang in there.. Looks like you're getting it!

Regarding getting needed nutrients from BOSS.. please note this quote taken from the previous (Merck vet manual) link..

"The nutrient requirement values in the accompanying tables are based on typical rates of intake of birds in a thermoneutral environment consuming a diet that contains a specific energy content (eg, 3,200 kcal/kg for broilers). If a bird consumes a diet that has a higher energy content, it will decrease its feed intake; consequently, that diet must contain a proportionally higher amount of amino acids, vitamins, and minerals"


Protein content is not what makes birds chunky or people.. energy is energy regardless of the source.. How is 4 calories from carbohydrates even fiber different than 4 calories from protein? Though protein content may be directly correlate to muscle development.. that's not chunkiness.. Please note.. I'm TRULY friendly chatting here and interested in your answer.. I'm NOT presuming to know anything!

And yes, molting birds are replacing feathers which despite being only 2% digestible in their raw form ARE made from 90% protein and it's amino acids.. They however are not *usually* laying during this time and that is where the redirected energy comes from and goes to.


Well, I disagree about their guide being suited to environment rather than species.. What good would giving all your customers bad information be and have them end up with sick animals? Also.. how does it defer from the veterinary resource I added?? I do agree about it being a guide and some individuals may not fall in line with the "norm".. and yes of course.. they can't know what excess feed stuffs you're adding in or account for that. Even the veterinary resource states it's a guide based on "typical dietary energy concentrations".


Sorry, I'm not sure of the whole story.. have you checked for injury?

Diet is a great consideration and you might be onto something! Have you posted video and such, did I miss a link to another thread? Some birds that have been impacted by nutrient deficit *may* not recover from their limping (or torticollis, etc) status even after the correction has been made, especially if persisting for some time already. Is veterinary care or assessment an option?

Hope everyone get's (or keeps) THEIR flock stuff dialed in and they continue (or start) to thrive!

My information is based on my experience. When temperatures dip below freezing all of my geese get hungrier and eat more. Early on when I had them, I had them on a 17% feed through the winter and they rapidly lost weight in the cold months and when they molted some of them got stress bars on their feathers on a 17% feed also, both issues corrected themselves when giving a 20% feed in winter and during molting. My geese are primarily 17 to 20lb Toulouse, and compared to the smaller buffs and romans they struggle on a lower percentage feed. My roman cross and buffs put on a lot of weight on in warmer months on a 20% feed as compared to my larger birds, they don’t have this issue if I limit their portions or have them on a lower percentage feed.
I never said Metzer’s guide was incorrect, only that their birds are in a much different environment than mine, Metzer’s primary goal is to sell poultry and their experience with keeping birds is different than others just like my experiences are different than theirs or others. They don’t experience severe winters like I do, and my winters aren’t nearly as extreme as someone in Minnesota or elsewhere, temperature does play a role in feed intake.

 

[Ourgosling22]

My information is based on my experience. When temperatures dip below freezing all of my geese get hungrier and eat more. Early on when I had them, I had them on a 17% feed through the winter and they rapidly lost weight in the cold months and when they molted some of them got stress bars on their feathers on a 17% feed also, both issues corrected themselves when giving a 20% feed in winter and during molting. My geese are primarily 17 to 20lb Toulouse, and compared to the smaller buffs and romans they struggle on a lower percentage feed. My roman cross and buffs put on a lot of weight on in warmer months on a 20% feed as compared to my larger birds, they don’t have this issue if I limit their portions or have them on a lower percentage feed.
I never said Metzer’s guide was incorrect, only that their birds are in a much different environment than mine, Metzer’s primary goal is to sell poultry and their experience with keeping birds is different than others just like my experiences are different than theirs or others. They don’t experience severe winters like I do, and my winters aren’t nearly as extreme as someone in Minnesota or elsewhere, temperature does play a role in feed intake.

I do want to add since weather is mentioned regarding feed, I’m in central Texas zone 9 area. We get pretty mild winters and the extreme cold temps are very short such as anywhere from a few days to maybe a week at most in Jan and Feb. Honestly my birds appetites don’t seem to change and it never crossed my mind to change their feed during these months. They still lay eggs too. Usually I'm more concerned if they are getting enough to eat.

 

[Goosebaby]

I do want to add since weather is mentioned regarding feed, I’m in central Texas zone 9 area. We get pretty mild winters and the extreme cold temps are very short such as anywhere from a few days to maybe a week at most in Jan and Feb. Honestly my birds appetites don’t seem to change and it never crossed my mind to change their feed during these months. They still lay eggs too. Usually I'm more concerned if they are getting enough to eat.

The main point of raising their nutritional intake with a higher protein feed in winter is because they’re burning more energy keeping warm in serious cold, lack of grass and sunlight can also compound the issue, they also need more carbs in winter too, and they start eating more as a result of needing more protein and carbs.
feeding them higher protein and carb percentages can help them get more out of their feed while not needing to eat as much so it can save on cost buying a 20% bag of feed vs multiple bags of a lower percentage. In summer months when they’re not laying and molting the extra nutrition isn’t really necessary, they aren’t using it.
Geese are generally pretty hardy though but with mine I’ve noticed prolonged cold wears on them and I have a few with sensitive immune systems and they’re the first to start having issues, I’m in the sierras on the north side of the hill so winters are usually frigid, muddy, with no sun for 4 months. If you’re in a milder climate and prolonged cold isn’t common then it probably isn’t wearing on your flock, that doesn’t mean that individual’s won’t have issues related to the season for whatever reason, like mine as I mentioned.

You can also just feed them 20% year round and not bother switching their feed so much depending on the season, it’s a lot easier, especially with a mixed flock of ages, sizes, and species which is why mine are on 20% feed year round, some of my smaller birds can just get chunkier on it sometimes, but they also happen to be binge eaters.

 

[Ourgosling22]

The main point of raising their nutritional intake with a higher protein feed in winter is because they’re burning more energy keeping warm in serious cold, lack of grass and sunlight can also compound the issue, they also need more carbs in winter too, and they start eating more as a result of needing more protein and carbs.
feeding them higher protein and carb percentages can help them get more out of their feed while not needing to eat as much so it can save on cost buying a 20% bag of feed vs multiple bags of a lower percentage. In summer months when they’re not laying and molting the extra nutrition isn’t really necessary, they aren’t using it.
Geese are generally pretty hardy though but with mine I’ve noticed prolonged cold wears on them and I have a few with sensitive immune systems and they’re the first to start having issues, I’m in the sierras on the north side of the hill so winters are usually frigid, muddy, with no sun for 4 months. If you’re in a milder climate and prolonged cold isn’t common then it probably isn’t wearing on your flock, that doesn’t mean that individual’s won’t have issues related to the season for whatever reason, like mine as I mentioned.

You can also just feed them 20% year round and not bother switching their feed so much depending on the season, it’s a lot easier, especially with a mixed flock of ages, sizes, and species which is why mine are on 20% feed year round, some of my smaller birds can just get chunkier on it sometimes, but they also happen to be binge eaters.

Ok I think I understand and it makes sense. I’m trying to make sure I’m doing everything I can so my birds are healthy and not deprived due to ignorance. It’s so much information and it seems to vary at times with different resources. I don’t plan on increasing my flock. My 3 geese and 6 ducks keep me busy enough. There are a couple of breeds that appeal to me that I thought would be enjoyable but I don’t think I will go further than what I’m doing. My young geese’s issues keep me stressed out as it is.
I thank you and everyone on here who replies. It’s truly a blessing to get help and support from members.

 

[Goosebaby]

It’s so much information and it seems to vary at times with different resources.

Yeah there’s a reason for that. Not a lot of people have geese, there’s less goose owners than duck owners and those are far less than chicken owners. There’s very little info out there, most of which is from owners personal experience and being honest that isn’t always great, you should never necessarily just trust someone’s word for something, even from me, I’m just a voice on the internet, and I could be wrong about a lot.
A lot of us have different methods for treating illness or feeding because we’re mostly going off of what we’ve learned from other goose owners or from our own experience, and unfortunately there are also people that will act like they know what they’re talking about but actually know nothing and have no experience with geese, I haven’t encountered that here but I have seen a lot of it on Facebook, instagram, and YouTube from wannabe influencers.
For actual medical and dietary information, there’s few resources and they do very quite a lot, most research for poultry goes to chickens being the most numerous animals raised for meat and eggs and being more common in backyards, ducks have much fewer studies, and geese even less, which is why there’s often no choice but to guess at drug dosages by basing it off of how one would dose a chicken.

It’s a.ways important to do your own research, collect as much information as you can from articles and other owners, and care for your birds the way you think is the best way.

 

[Ourgosling22]

Yeah there’s a reason for that. Not a lot of people have geese, there’s less goose owners than duck owners and those are far less than chicken owners. There’s very little info out there, most of which is from owners personal experience and being honest that isn’t always great, you should never necessarily just trust someone’s word for something, even from me, I’m just a voice on the internet, and I could be wrong about a lot.
A lot of us have different methods for treating illness or feeding because we’re mostly going off of what we’ve learned from other goose owners or from our own experience, and unfortunately there are also people that will act like they know what they’re talking about but actually know nothing and have no experience with geese, I haven’t encountered that here but I have seen a lot of it on Facebook, instagram, and YouTube from wannabe influencers.
For actual medical and dietary information, there’s few resources and they do very quite a lot, most research for poultry goes to chickens being the most numerous animals raised for meat and eggs and being more common in backyards, ducks have much fewer studies, and geese even less, which is why there’s often no choice but to guess at drug dosages by basing it off of how one would dose a chicken.

It’s a.ways important to do your own research, collect as much information as you can from articles and other owners, and care for your birds the way you think is the best way.

Yeah there’s a reason for that. Not a lot of people have geese, there’s less goose owners than duck owners and those are far less than chicken owners. There’s very little info out there, most of which is from owners personal experience and being honest that isn’t always great, you should never necessarily just trust someone’s word for something, even from me, I’m just a voice on the internet, and I could be wrong about a lot.
A lot of us have different methods for treating illness or feeding because we’re mostly going off of what we’ve learned from other goose owners or from our own experience, and unfortunately there are also people that will act like they know what they’re talking about but actually know nothing and have no experience with geese, I haven’t encountered that here but I have seen a lot of it on Facebook, instagram, and YouTube from wannabe influencers.
For actual medical and dietary information, there’s few resources and they do very quite a lot, most research for poultry goes to chickens being the most numerous animals raised for meat and eggs and being more common in backyards, ducks have much fewer studies, and geese even less, which is why there’s often no choice but to guess at drug dosages by basing it off of how one would dose a chicken.

It’s a.ways important to do your own research, collect as much information as you can from articles and other owners, and care for your birds the way you think is the best way.

So true. I haven’t thought about the differences in the birds that way. I do a lot of reading and research hopefully on reliable and trusted resources but even so it can still get a bit confusing and overwhelming. As a last resort I like to get member’s opinion mostly due because many of you are pretty experienced and have been doing this a long time. I’ve only begun about 2 years ago so I’m still learning and have a ways to go.
Btw Sherbert seems to be walking so much better. Should I stop giving her the poultry cell now? In y’all’s opinion what would you do to keep being proactive to this issue? I wished I had sent the video. Haven’t gotten help on that yet but I’m thinking maybe send it anyway. Do a before and a now to see the difference. Maybe get some more feedback. Thanks again for the feedback and information.

 

[Goosebaby]

So true. I haven’t thought about the differences in the birds that way. I do a lot of reading and research hopefully on reliable and trusted resources but even so it can still get a bit confusing and overwhelming. As a last resort I like to get member’s opinion mostly due because many of you are pretty experienced and have been doing this a long time. I’ve only begun about 2 years ago so I’m still learning and have a ways to go.
Btw Sherbert seems to be walking so much better. Should I stop giving her the poultry cell now? In y’all’s opinion what would you do to keep being proactive to this issue? I wished I had sent the video. Haven’t gotten help on that yet but I’m thinking maybe send it anyway. Do a before and a now to see the difference. Maybe get some more feedback. Thanks again for the feedback and information.

That’s great she’s doing better! I would keep her on it for another few days and then give her a dose once a week.

 

[Ourgosling22]

That’s great she’s doing better! I would keep her on it for another few days and then give her a dose once a week.

Ok-Sounds like a plan.
I watched her walk when I let them out this morning and she seems to be feeling so much better. But it still looks like she doesn’t put any pressure on her heels compared to the others. Almost on her tiptoes but not as bad as it has been.